Paris - Sept 1 to Sept 8 - Any help appreciated
Hi there - first time poster here - a couple of Canadians, early 30's visiting Paris in September. We are staying in the 5th (just south of Notre Dame). Looking for any hints or suggestions for cool bistros and the like in the neighbourhood (or in Le Marais). I'm desperately trying to avoid tourist traps but I find with Paris, I have yet to develop a good instinct on the matter. I had picked Le Reminet for dinner for our first night, but read some awful recent reviews on this site. Any hidden (or not so hidden) gems in the area that you would recommend?
Based on another review seen here I made a reservation at Atsushi Tanaka for lunch which looks amazing.
Going to try for The Clown Bar, and book at Le Chateaubriand next week.
We're also looking for low-key, more traditional / homestyle French places (which might be a little more budget friendly than the above). I'm finding volumes of great info on this site as I dig into it more!
I have never been disappointed by Le Réminet (especially when I can take advantage of lafourchette's discounts), Ribouldingue (which specializes in offal), the Michelin-starred Itinéraires, the Japanese-French Sola, Terroir Parisien on the rue Saint-Victor @ rue Monge, the creative cuisine at new(ish) Restaurant AT, the revamped and now very modern Sergent Recruteur on the Ile St Louis. Admittedly, as a local, I tend to avoid Notre Dame's immediate neighbourhood because of the tourist swarms and am not altogether familiar with other options in the neighbourhood. A little further away in the 5th, I'm a big fan of the authentically cutesy Les Pipos on the rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève @ rue de l'Ecole Polytechnique... good honest wine bar grub with a southwestern French accent... continuous hours from 9:30am to 11:30pm Mon to Sat but cooked food only at normal meal times and no reservations after 8:15pm (don't ask why!)... live trad music on Fri and Sat nights. Just off the Place Monge (which has a very villagey outdoor market on Wed, Fri & Sun mornings), the very delightful Lilane... modernish cuisine at a great price... lovely service... and spank me for forgetting to recommend it in similar threads. For an enjoyable bistro du quartier, Au Bon Coin on the rue Collégiale off the rue Monge... fabulous foie de veau... rapidly gaining traction on some tourist sites... usually a preponderance of locals but on my last visit (end-July) lots of tourists. For superior crêpes, Le Pot o'Lait on the rue Censier... indeed arguably the best in Paris. If some of these recs are further way than you would like, hop on the #47 bus from the rue Saint-Jacques or Maubert-Mutualité to Place Monge or Censier-Daubenton to minimize the walking.
If you want a traditional place one night, Chez Denise won this contest. Walkable from the 5th.
Also, right across the river is Metropolitian in the 4th and Le Taxi Jaune in the 3rd. In the haut Marais, you might want to check out Le Mary Celeste for Asian inspired small plates and great cocktails. There will be a lot of fellow 30somethings. Canal St. Martin area and Oberkampf on right bank (10th and 11th arrond) also lively and less touristy than around Notre Dame.
We've enjoyed Terroir Parisian in the 5th and you can book online.
My wife and I went to Mary Celeste in May. Loved it. I don't know that I would call their small plates "Asian inspired" -- perhaps they are, but that didn't jump out at me. Nevertheless, the food was excellent and far above what we expected, given how casual the place is. Fun and lively; great cocktails; reasonably priced. We've stayed in the 11th (Rue Amelot) -- near Clown Bar and Oberkampf, and have also found the neighborhood to skew on the young side (30s) and very lively night life. Metropolitain in the 4th as mentioned above would be an easy walk for you. We ate there two years ago and still marvel at the dessert we had!
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I ended up making the following reservations:
- Le Reminet (dinner)
- Wine tasting at O-Chateau
- Frenchie (dinner)
- Le Chateaubriand (dinner) (Happy the person on the phone took pity on my nervous French and switched to anglais)
- Restaurant A.T. (lunch)
The rest we will sort of wing it, relying on the various lists posted here. Bon appetit!