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Aug 9, 2014 05:30 AM

Paris: recommendation for bistros brasseries and boulangerie near Bercy Village

Hi all, I'm staying at Adagio Bercy Village in early October for 5 nights coming from New Zealand. I have no experience with the area (indeed it will be my first time to France)

Can anyone suggest any decent good quality bistros (both the 40-50 euro pp type of main bistro and 20 euro pp budget places), brasserie to try, thanks. Also any good artisan and more mainstream boulangerie in the Bercy village area? Thanks.

PS: we are travelling in groups of 3, and would probably want to go for at least a Chinese meal when in Paris as this is our native cooking. I saw on egullet long ago post that Li Ka Fo in the 13th would have okay Chinese food (I don't think it will be as good as Hong Kong or Sydney, but will be very happy if it gets to Auckland or US major cities' standards). Is Li La Po still around? Also do they do yum cha? And are there any other similar places nearby? Thanks.

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  1. I have struggled to find a good place in this wonderful looking site but failed.
    The best bistro is a block away run by refugees from the Repaire de Cartouche called the Cartouche Café, 4 rue de Bercy. It's the real thing as opposed to those fungible joints along the alley in Bercy Village.

    2 Replies
    1. re: John Talbott

      I am breaking my head too. Bercy Village is a mall set up in the former chais on the edge of the city. The best bet is to take public transport and come back to the more central arrondissements. The nearby 11th has a much wider and fabulous choice.

      1. re: Parigi

        Johung: I was looking at apartments over there last year and did a walking tour of the area to see what besides the Cartouche Café (a restaurant not a cafe) and the dreadful box-shops along the alley to the cinema, existed.
        Compared to where I live in the 18th, on a market street full of bakeries, wineshops, markets and supermarkets, it seemed to me to be pretty devoid of them and I concluded as Parigi says I'd have to go back towards town to fill my baskets.

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      1. Agree with Parigi and John Talbott... a very difficult mostly redeveloped area somewhat cut off by its geography (river on one side/ rail yards on the other). Other than the not entirely but mostly dire chain-restos in the Bercy Village mall complex, very few choices in a 10-minute stroll. Café Cartouche on the rue de Bercy is indeed the best.

        While I wouldn't consider it if not in the neighbourhood, l'Auberge Aveyronnaise on the rue Gabriel Lamé is decent enough if you choose well... the aligot is a speciality.

        Les Zygomates on the rue de Capri is a delightful bistro de quartier... a longish and far from scenic walk (maybe 20 mins) because of the detours you have to make to get to the other side of the rail yards and no easy public transport options other than Vélib bike (from the bike station in front of the Ibis hotel to the rue Madagascar drop-off)... taxi rank on the same street as Ibis Bercy (towards river) so 7€ taxi ride is probably a better option.

        Tempero on the rue Clisson in the 13th on the other side of the river is another condideration... excellent well-priced lunch canteen that also does dinner on Thu and Fri nights... basically French cuisine but owners are a Brazilian and French-Vietnamese couple so lots of Brazilian and Vietnamese influences... about a 20-min walk from the Adagio Bercy... or Vélib to rues Dunois/ Clisson drop-off... or, yes yes, taxi.

        For boulangeries, I can only think of Eric Kayser in Bercy Village.

        The #24 bus will be your life-line out of the neighbourhood... running along the river past the Ile St Louis, Notre Dame, Louvre, Orsay, etc, exceptionally scenic as well. And much more convenient than the métro.

        1. Thanks guys, i wonder whether Adagio Buttes Chaumont would be better alternatives?

          Would love to be nearer to Adagio Montmartre on Place Charles Dublin but they have run out of 1 bedroom apartment units (we are travelling in group of 3, so 1 bedroom apartment would be nicer).

          2 Replies
          1. re: johung

            If you are not married to Adadgio, you may want to check out the perfectlyparis apartments that specialize in the 18th and the 9th arrondissements. My friends have stayed in apartments in the Abbesses and rue des Martyrs areas, in the middle of excellent food shops and award-winning bakeries.

            And some quite good Chinese restaurants are moving in the 9th, but none of them are Cantonese, as you seem to focus on. "Chez Zhang", on 54 rue Faubourg Montmartre, makes his own noodle for his Tianjin homecooking.

            On the very small rue Budapest near St Lazare station, there are two quite authentic regional Chinese restaurants, serving food from Shandong for one, and from Yunnan for the other.
            But for such a small trip , you should really enjoy the occasion to the fullest, which means tasting the best of local cusine, which is NOT Yunnan or Shandong or Tianjin or Cantonese.

            1. re: johung

              I hear the Adagio Aparthotels are great value and you get the benefit of hotel services so if you can get a good deal, I'd stick with them. The Buttes Chaumont property is a bit out of the way for a first-timer and set in a partially redeveloped and very mixed neighbourhood. Even though the Adagio Bercy is a bit isolated and does not have the benefit of a vibrant and typically Parisien neighbourhood around it, it's still easy enough to get to more interesting quartiers via the #24 bus or taxis. I'd hold on to your rezzie and hope that maybe you can snag a cancellation in another Adagio in a another quartier (there's also one near the Rue Saint Charles in the 15th) that gives you more opportunity to explore the Parisien lifestyle. I dunno what Adagio's policy re switching hotels within the group is.