Mushroom sauce for pappardelle (NO cream or tomatoes)
Have been experimenting with various fresh mushroom sauces but haven't hit on one I am completely satisfied with. Suggestions please --- scallions, chicken broth, white wine, garlic, --- any or all of the above?
Get your hands on some demi glaze - sauté shallots, add fresh thyme, mushrooms, add re constituted porcinis (chopped fine), little wine or brandy or sherry, the porcini water, reduce a bit, then demi - maybe a little butter - s&p -
or you could do a mushroom cream sauce using cashew cream- why no cream - is it a dairy issue?
Thank you for your thoughts.
No, not a dairy issue at all. I've made various mushroom sauces using cream, tomatoes, a combination of both, and dried porcini. Have enjoyed all of them, but what I am searching for now is a simple sauce of fresh shrooms --- possibly using shallots, parsley, chicken broth, garlic, and possibly a little white wine. I just cannot seem to get the right proportions down.
If you have fresh chanterelles available to you, they give up so much of their wonderful liquor, you almost don't need anything else.
I generally sauté them in rendered bacon fat (after I've sweat finely diced onion in it, and I keep the crispy bacon chunks in the pan as well) and add a little white wine and lots of fresh parsley. If you want it a little saucier, I suppose you could add just a splash of olive oil, but you don't want to cover up the flavors of the chanterelles.
Any other mushrooms I pretty much do the same, although instead of bacon fat I'll often use clarified butter and/or olive oil. You can mix it up and use red wine for deglazing instead of white, it works better with richer, deeper flavored, shroomy shrooms like hen of the woods or morels. Thyme or tarragon is nice with shrooms.
And I do love some crème fraîche or heavy cream in my sauce.... but you nixed that idea '-)
Without cream, I'd suggest a butter/flour roux, beef stock, fresh Thyme & Rosemary. Sauté the mushrooms along with shallots or onion in a fair amount of butter, deglaze with sherry before adding to the sauce.
My go to recipe is to saute a bunch of rough chopped mushrooms (anything that looks good to you) in a mix of butter and olive oil; you can add red pepper flakes if you like. I do. Add chopped garlic and shallots. Continue to saute until deeply caramelized (this is important and key to this recipe). Season with salt & pepper as you see fit. Meanwhile, reconstitute some dried porcinis in hot water. Drain and rough chop porcinis. Add to caramelized mushrooms. Strain porcini water and use some (not all) to deglaze mushrooms and make a sauce. Cook and drain pasta. Toss with mushroom sauce, adding pasta water if needed. Finally, finish with fresh, grated Parmigiano and olive oil. Toss again and plate. If you are like me, sprinkle each serving with some more Parmigiano and a drizzle of olive oil.