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Roseval

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We arrived at Roseval with reduced expectations, aware that Erika, the quite amazing and charasmatic som was on sabatical. We were warmly greeted and immediately introduced to Martin, who quickly showed his expertise.

While the format is similar to Le Galopin, short no choice menu (45€), the plates are interestingly much more understandable while still not classic. Entree of duck heart with carrot puree and pickled onions, first plat of calimar atop tomato "soup", lamb two ways as main: long-boned rib chop and large chunk of juicy braised shoulder. Panna cotta pre-dessert and "split milk" glace and ice-milk with fruit.

Every plate was very good and I was able to parce enough to take home several ideas. But Martin was the star of the evening. He dragged out tremendously interesting and esoteric wines for each course, was totally engaged and engaging, spending time providing backstory for the wines and rationale for his choices. Pairings are 25€.

So, the food was interesting if not mind-boggling, wines were both delightful and a bargain. As we left, we learned that Erika, not surprisingly, has moved on to new challenges, and Martin is our new hero.

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  1. Wife liked very much a few weeks ago....

    1. Thanks mangeur, once again you are reconfirming places on our list for September…. -- Jake

      1. sounds like a good candidate for October!

        1. My admiration for Mme Mangeur grows and grows. Any visitor that takes the time and effort to explore the exceptionally good eastern Paris restaurant scene deserves our gratitude. Roseval is indeed a gem.

          And speaking of gems, I hope you will have the opportunity to try the awesome Clandestino on the rue Crozatier in the 12th. Ostensibly a pop-up that has mercifully lasted 2 years, it's now closing on 11 Aug for good. (Insert tears).

          5 Replies
          1. re: Parnassien

            Great place; any word on where they'll popup again?

            1. re: John Talbott

              None. Clandestino will be replaced by another mystery pop-up at the same address but no idea what chef Shibuya will do next. I'm in the middle of my tribe's migration to Italy so no chance for a final meal and more info from the horse's mouth.

              1. re: Parnassien

                Happy trip; our tribe of 12 survived Tuscany quite well.

            2. re: Parnassien

              What sad news. I went a couple of months ago on both your recs, had a really excellent experience (beautifully-cooked well-thought-through fixed menu, kind waiter, low-key neighbourhoodly vibe with a friendly lab at the next table), as have a couple of friends plus a visiting sibling who subsequently gave it a go.

              Everyone particularly liked the ability to reserve/ drop in at short notice, not usually a given at trendy eastern Paris places with small rooms and limited telephone-answering capacity.

              1. re: Parnassien

                Thanks for the tip-off. Am running there for one last meal.