- mangeur Aug 1, 2014 12:21 AM
We arrived at Roseval with reduced expectations, aware that Erika, the quite amazing and charasmatic som was on sabatical. We were warmly greeted and immediately introduced to Martin, who quickly showed his expertise.
While the format is similar to Le Galopin, short no choice menu (45€), the plates are interestingly much more understandable while still not classic. Entree of duck heart with carrot puree and pickled onions, first plat of calimar atop tomato "soup", lamb two ways as main: long-boned rib chop and large chunk of juicy braised shoulder. Panna cotta pre-dessert and "split milk" glace and ice-milk with fruit.
Every plate was very good and I was able to parce enough to take home several ideas. But Martin was the star of the evening. He dragged out tremendously interesting and esoteric wines for each course, was totally engaged and engaging, spending time providing backstory for the wines and rationale for his choices. Pairings are 25€.
So, the food was interesting if not mind-boggling, wines were both delightful and a bargain. As we left, we learned that Erika, not surprisingly, has moved on to new challenges, and Martin is our new hero.
My admiration for Mme Mangeur grows and grows. Any visitor that takes the time and effort to explore the exceptionally good eastern Paris restaurant scene deserves our gratitude. Roseval is indeed a gem.
And speaking of gems, I hope you will have the opportunity to try the awesome Clandestino on the rue Crozatier in the 12th. Ostensibly a pop-up that has mercifully lasted 2 years, it's now closing on 11 Aug for good. (Insert tears).
What sad news. I went a couple of months ago on both your recs, had a really excellent experience (beautifully-cooked well-thought-through fixed menu, kind waiter, low-key neighbourhoodly vibe with a friendly lab at the next table), as have a couple of friends plus a visiting sibling who subsequently gave it a go.
Everyone particularly liked the ability to reserve/ drop in at short notice, not usually a given at trendy eastern Paris places with small rooms and limited telephone-answering capacity.
Mme Mangeur´s review is spot on! We went to Roseval on a still warm Friday night last autumn and loved the place. The first reward is that you have to leave Tourist Central and venture out to an area which is still a little bit scruffy but gives you a feel of real Parisian life. Roseval is on a nice little place with a church and on this still warm evening the windows were open and gave a look to the opposite bar which was full of young people joyfully but peacefully celebrating life outside. We were greeted and seated next to the stairs to the cellar from where a slight air of mold and crypt was coming up and my husband gave me his “where on earth did you drag me” look and I got a bit unsure whether the decision to come here was so good after all…
The other diners were mostly French, two tables were occupied by Americans and there were two Italian tables. Simone Tondo came out of his tiny kitchen to greet them and explained the menu in Italian which was also helpful to us as my Italian is much better than my French.
The food was interesting and good (panna cotta dessert) to very good (vegetable soup, raw fish starter) the main, which was pigeon, was excellent. But the wines were the star of the evening. The sommelier was very friendly and enthusiastic and patiently explained each wine in detail and why it had been chosen. The pairings were ununsal but absolutely great, as they complemented nuances of the sauce and the food nearly perfectly. The wines really let the food shine and we enjoyed the evening tremendously. The slightly rotten smell was forgotten the minute the dinner started...
We will be back! If you enjoy great combinations of food and wine we think this is place to cross town for.