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Jul 20, 2014 04:15 PM

Seattle Biscuit Bender

Today, in order to entertain myself for a while, I went on a biscuit bender, sampling all the biscuits I could find.

I started at the London Plane. Although many items on the menu looked good, there wasn't really anything I felt like eating, and no two plates that seemed good to combine for brunch for one. The cobb salad to share looked good, but I didn't feel like a $24 salad all to myself. So, why not begin a biscuit binge? The house biscuit came warm with aprium jam and creme fraiche. It was a decent, serviceable biscuit with a nice light sweetness, but kind of tough and bland. Fine but not great. The biscuit was improved by the toppings and a little salt.

Next I stopped at Wandering Goose. The Regular comes pre-schmeared with raspberry jam and butter. This was my favorite in terms of the biscuit itself. The biscuit had a nice crisp crust and soft sweet cakey interior. Rich yet delicate. I considered asking for a plain one and wish I had, the thick layer of jam made it too sweet overall for me, and the gob of unmelted butter sandwiched in the middle put it over the top. It quickly turned into a crumbly jammy mess. I bet they'd be great plain, or as shortcake with fruit and whipped cream, but I don't think I'd want a sandwich on such a sweet biscuit.

Honest Biscuit was not too far away at the Broadway farmers market. I got their plain 'butterhole' biscuit. This was my least favorite. Slightly sour, very dense and bread-y, not buttery, neither particularly sweet nor savory. Seemed closer to Irish soda bread in texture. Maybe somebody's ideal of a biscuit, but far from mine.

Last stop was Biscuit Bitch at Cafe Lieto on 1st & Stewart. Another less-sweet, somewhat tangy biscuit. The Buttered Up Bitch came warm, split and buttered, with a side of topping, I chose honey. This was my favorite for eating overall. The biscuit was slightly savory - finally some flavor besides doughiness! - with a bit of a crust and rich moist crumb. The salty biscuit, melted butter, and honey came together in perfect balance. Unadorned, the biscuit would be second to Wandering Goose, but still above London Plane.

I considered a stop at Serious Biscuit, but didn't want to hurt myself, plus IIRC, the one time I did try them I found the biscuit tough yet oddly too buttery and wasn't excited to go back.

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  1. Morsel? Sampled the Spanish Fly & fast break this Sat. @ Ballard location. Both were awesome! If the wait hadn't been so long we would have split a third.

    4 Replies
    1. re: akq

      Yeah, I was debating how far north to head, decided to save Morsel & Nook for another day, might have some time to kill in the U district later this week. I was glad I stopped at 4 (though I only ate about 2-1/2 combined), because tonight I went to a potluck, and what was for dessert but shortcake biscuits! Bob's homemade were pretty good, even if they were leftovers from Friday - still more palatable to me than Honest Biscuit :0

      1. re: babette feasts

        unless i am way off, morsel is nook. it is in the nook space on the ave. nook was sold when the owners wanted a break and name was changed to morsel when the new owner chose to expand the menu. one of the bakers and the recipes stayed with the new owner. now have the second location in ballard which i am dyin' to get to. they are the biscuit kings in town in my opinion.

        1. re: bighound

          Ahh, yes I think you're right. Will definitely check out Morsel.

          1. re: babette feasts

            I love going on these little obsessive sprees myself so glad to read of another! If you prefer a more savoury biscuit you are in for a treat at Morsel. I really liked their basic buttermilk, even better than the cheese one, though to be fair I had the former twice in the Spanish Fly mentioned upthread and the former once, on its own.

      1. Highly recommend Morsel!

        1. I'm in the U District this morning, so I wandered over to Morsel for a buttermilk biscuit with honey butter. I think this was one of the more buttery biscuits, tender enough but lacking the crisp crustiness that I enjoy. The honey butter seemed unfortunately off tasting, so that kind of ruined it.

          On biscuit alone, I'd put them on par with Biscuit Bitch, but due to the funky honey butter, their overall rank drops them down to a 3rd place tie with London Plane. I can definitely see the homey appeal of an indy place like Morsel, and I bet the sandwiches are pretty great, but being a pastry professional I wanted to base my tasting on each place's most basic offering.

          I think I may be sick of biscuits now :/

          2 Replies
          1. re: babette feasts

            Be strong,
            take one for the team.
            We are grateful.

            1. re: JayDK


              If I have time, I may force myself to stop at Serious Biscuit on the way home, just to be complete.

              Of course the best biscuit in town is Besalu's ginger biscuit, perfect and needs no adornment, but including Besalu in any pastry contest just isn't fair to anyone else!