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Jul 19, 2014 06:47 AM

One Night in Santiago de Compostela -- Food Plan?

hi...we're NYC Hounds who will be in Portugal and Spain for 18 days in August...this is the first of many specific posts which will follow :)

Originally we'd planned on 10 days in Galicia but various reasons conspired to reroute the trip w/ 9 days Portugal followed 2 days at an inn in Ribeira Sacra, and only a single night in SdeC...we'll arrive there late afternoon and are staying in old town, then leave the next day for Madrid in late afternoon...

-- What would you recommend for dinner that first night?...we like rustic traditional food (nothing glossy-modern)...should we get a full dinner or do a tapas crawl?...what's a fun plan for that evening?

-- any lunch recs for the following day?...somewhere near the Cathedral/old-city as this will unfortunately be our only time to wander the city...

Thanks in advance...

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  1. We spent three glorious nights in SdeC a few years back. The porter @ our parador recommended Don Quijote Restaurant and it was a most excellent choice. We still think about the paella and the cochinillo we enjoyed with them.

    1. I feel the Don Quijote is not in the rustic traditional food class. However it is good.
      I would add this one to your ideas. .Again not rustic but good.
      To get rustic I would wait until you are in the country. Then ask your inn for directions as to the most rustic. It depends on what apart you are going to usually there is a huge choice.

      1. Re-recommending Abastos2.0 next to the market...went to the restaurant 1 night for tasting menu prix fix menu-32 eu- and, save for 1 course, my dude and I were impressed. The tomato salad with tomato foam was probably one of the best things I've had since arriving in Spain 2 weeks ago. We Returned to the pub a couple nights later and had terrific tapas prix hey are awesome with raw/marinated fish and I'd probably go,for theses versus the cooked if I had a choice.

        6 Replies
        1. re: sixelagogo

          thanks for the suggestion, but only interested in traditional places -- no foam, fusion, etc

          1. re: Simon

            So wait until you are in the wine area. Can I ask where are you staying. Depending on the location I may know one or two rustic restaurants.

            1. re: Lugosur

              thanks...staying at Costa Vella hotel in SdC...also staying two nights at Rectoral Anllo in Ribeira Sacra...cheers

              1. re: Simon

                Rectoral Anllo good choice. They also do evening meals, but not rustic.
                If you are there on Market day in Sober (12 or 28) of each month you can eat or purchase traditional dishes.
                There is a bar in Sober called the Ribeirasacra. At weekends they do puplo and have light meals all week.
                Restaurante A Cantina in Doade It can be very busy midday. Try and eat upstairs where the room is part of the old house.
                The Bodega Algueira is more up market. Traditional Galician fair but certainly not rustic.
                There are several locations in Monforte de Lemos which maybe of rustic interest for you.
                Pulperia Os Chaos Calle Roberto Bahamonde. This is also a churrasco.
                A very nice up market location in Monforte is O Grelo, just below the Paradore.
                Back to Santiago, further to my suggestions maybe O Curro da Parra, RĂșa Travesa, maybe a bit more rustic for you.
                This is not rustic but I will add it so others can read about the restaurante, that is called Garum Bistro
                Remember please these are just my ideas. I like them and I do hope you find somethignof charm.
                Sorry for my English it is not my first language.
                Hope this helps. I and others will hopefully be able to follow your thoughts after the visit.

                1. re: Lugosur

                  thanks for these ideas :)

                  We will prob eat at Rectoral the first evening, but the next day&eve we'll be exploring -- we won't have a car so we'll be getting a lift from a driver/guide and/or going for long hike in the countryside, so perhaps we can hit one of these...


                  1. re: Simon

                    Do not forget to feed the driver too;-)

        2. We did our honeymoon in Galaica 5 years ago. For dinner or even lunch in Santiago, Marcelo without a doubt. Vinoteca O Beiro in a good wine bar, the walls are lined w/zillions of Spanish vino and Orujo to buy to go away or have the whole bottle. The night we were there they had a homemade rustic empanada made w/corn meal, delish. The market is really good too, the tetilla vendor is nice, the abuelas (grandmothers) with greens from their plots and sometime homemade vino or orujo to buy bottles of. WE also went to ribera sacra, truly a lovely place, still dream of it. However we stayed in Ourense and loved this little city. Though the Tapas hours were quick.

          1. While I'm not sure I would go here if I were only in Santiago for one night, in my opinion the best pulpo (octopus) is in a low-key bar well off the beaten track in a place called Bar / Pulperia Fuentes. It's not near the touristy area at all but worth the trek for good pulpo that's bread-soppingly delicious. My wife is from SCQ and I go here every time I visit with my father-in-law. It's located in an area called Conxo about as far as you can get from the cathedral. Virtually zero ambiance but you will have plenty in the zona vieja.

            Odezaseis is pretty solid.

            I've wanted to try a tasting menu at Casa Marcelo for eons but they recently changed their format and don't offer a tasting menu (or so I heard) but do your research as this is a foodie haven.

            Be sure to have something drink in the lovely garden behind Hotel Costa Vella.

            Best coffee is Iacobus chain (3 locations). I also like Cafe Maycar in the new part near Plaza Galicia.