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Paris....in August?

I'm headed to Paris at the end of August (20-24). As you know...there are many closures in August. I found a great list of August closures hosted on Paris By Mouth but of course it doesn't list every closure. My hope was to find 4-6 fantastic restaurants/wine bars for lunch/dinner that are open and go a little crazy. I'm leaning towards new, less Michelin starred type places. I was curious if anyone else had any ideas. Also, as an aside, many of these restaurants do not have emails listed (just phone numbers) My French is good enough to send an email request but on the phone...not so much. I'm renting an apartment...so, I don't have a concierge to make these calls.

Here are some that sound great and I think are open while I'm there (feel free to tear this list apart or add some)...

Le Chateaubriand
Roseval
Le Mary Celeste
Restaurant Les Déserteurs
Le Servan
Restaurant Pierre Sang
Au Passage
Le Richer
Restaurant David Toutain
Clown Bar
La Buvette
Le Galopin
Aux Deux Amis
Le Dauphin
Neva Cuisine

List of closures...http://parisbymouth.com/paris-august-...

Thanks!

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    1. Really? All of them? You want my ranking? OK.
      Restaurant Les Déserteurs
      Le Servan
      Clown Bar
      Restaurant Pierre Sang
      Neva Cuisine
      (Pirouette - not listed but should be)
      OK that's 6 days:
      Au Passage
      Le Richer
      Restaurant David Toutain
      La Buvette
      Le Galopin (our pals said they've changed hours)
      Aux Deux Amis
      Le Dauphin
      Le Chateaubriand
      Roseval
      Le Mary Celeste

      36 Replies
      1. re: John Talbott

        Thank you! Haha...no definitely not at eating all of them. Seeing them ranked has me rethinking my plan a bit. As Le Chateaubriand, Roseval, Le Mary Celeste were high on my list from www research but that was merely based on a guess. Unfortunately, PBM has Pirouette closed while I'm there. Maybe next time.

        1. re: jacksonkev

          I dunno where you are staying but Coretta on the rue Cardinet in the very "in" Batignolles in the 17th has become my fave du moment and will be open during your stay. Second favourite: tie with Les Deserteurs in the 11th and Clown Bar in the 11th... both are relatively new and may therefore not get the attention they deserve in www research.

          1. re: Parnassien

            Thank you! Staying in the 11th but up for any arrondissement. Coretta looks great. I knew I should have come to Chowhound before combing thru every restaurant on Le Fooding and Paris by Mouth.

            1. re: jacksonkev

              We have enjoyed eating at Le Mary Celeste. It is a change of pace from a more traditional dinner. Also has great cocktails and located in an interesting part of the haut Marais. Here's from my trip report-

              Le MC was sublime. We had all the small plates on the menu. The standouts were the Thai salad with lots of lime and mint, tacos d'epaule de porc (spicy!), oeuf du diable and a crudo de lieu Jaune that was delicious. We had a bottle of La Sauvignonne that went well with the food.

              1. re: macdog

                Thanks...I may go for a cocktail and some snacks. Sounds good to me.

            2. re: Parnassien

              Parnassien, I meant to ask...are reservations required at these restaurants? Or can I walk in? Should I try to email or fumble thru Google Translate over the phone? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. As much as I obsess over finding these gems from very far away, the thought of not being able to get in is a little nerve racking. merci bien

              1. re: jacksonkev

                Call and ask if they speak English, most restaurants in central Paris have English speakers. Le Mary Celeste can be reserved online (another reason I like it).

                1. re: jacksonkev

                  I think the general advice is that visitors should reserve, especially at weekends. But, as a local, I tend to do it the night before or day of by telephone. David Toutain is however way too "hot" and getting rezzies is difficult so the sooner the better... there is an email address on their website for making reservations. Coretta also does rezzies by email... I'm sure English is spoken so no language problems by phone either. Not sure about the others without checking their websites. There is a high rate of cancellations in Paris so, even if a place is booked on the day you want, you can re-try on the day of. But you must be prepared for flexibility and improvisation... a plan B of good restos in the immediate area in case your first choice doesn't pan out.

                    1. re: Parnassien

                      "a plan B of good restos in the immediate area in case your first choice doesn't pan out."

                      Gospel. But a word of warning. We have been blindsided by finding that every one of our plan B choices were also slammed. I guess one idea might be to abandon your usual list and search out some obscure names for your flop-plan. Seems obvious after the fact.

                      1. re: mangeur

                        Funny, that's not our experience. But even tho' I'm an "English major" I don't know what slammed means.
                        We leave with a Plan B (for when the kitchen's electricity goes off), Plan C (when there was/is a flood in the basement) and within a kilometer there are bail-out places.
                        I encourge all to carry a couple of back-up addresses.

                        1. re: John Talbott

                          Although lunch is usually easier than dinner and are you only eat out at lunch it would be surprising if your plan A, B or C was an issue. But it's a very different story in the evenings with exponentially more people eating out.

                          1. re: PhilD

                            A fair comment, but I have faced restos at lunch gone bankrupt, with blown-out kitchens, etc as well.

                          2. re: John Talbott

                            Do I expose my IQ by admitting that our singular disaster was a Saturday night on rue Paul Bert? Duh. Nothing that DH would consider during our 45 minute "walk for food".

                            (Slammed is a kitchen term for working beyond full capacity.

                            1. re: mangeur

                              "(Slammed is a kitchen term for working beyond full capacity.
                              Just shows how little an East Coast education teaches one.
                              Mangeur, you've provided my "Word-A-Day." Thanks

                              1. re: John Talbott

                                Learned if from Buatto or Bourdain or some other pulp writer. :)

                              2. re: mangeur

                                My problem is that if I can't get into the place that is slammed I don't want to go to the ones with space as they are obviously no good because they are not full. Can I get treatment for my severe FOMO?

                                1. re: mangeur

                                  Timing is important. When I'm floating about reservationless on a Fri or Sat night, I bide my time at a café until 9:30 or 10pm or later before looking for a resto. Admittedly easier for us late-eating Euro-trash than for our delightful and very welcomed transatlantic visitors whom we love and cherish. But oh, that's another now closed thread. :)

                            2. re: Parnassien

                              "reserve,"
                              Correct.
                              While I mostly reserve the same day, (but it's for lunch folks) Colette prods me to reconfirm if longer and also remind co-diners - which we did not do today with the ever-charming Parigi. Sorry Parigi!

                                1. re: Parigi

                                  I'm not so sure: Les Enfants Gates or Les Enfants Rouges?
                                  An easy mistake to make.
                                  But luckily, both are great places.

                          3. re: Parnassien

                            Any comments about Restaurant AT for a splurge meal?

                            1. re: jacksonkev

                              Although I don't find the decor or ambiance of AT to be terribly appealing, the 9-course dinner is stellar. My last time there, one of our neighbouring tables was not pleased with the smallness of the courses but I and my friends had no such complaints.

                              1. re: Parnassien

                                Complaining about portion size is so ridiculous at a 9-course menu...I cannot understand people sometimes.

                                1. re: jacksonkev

                                  "portion size"
                                  One of the most lovable folks here "wants his beef."
                                  Me, the older and older I am, the less and less I need/want.

                                  1. re: jacksonkev

                                    Judging from their conversation, they were from Lyon where appetites are larger than Paris.

                                  2. re: Parnassien

                                    "I don't find the decor or ambiance of AT to be terribly appealing"
                                    The chip in the salt is not cool?

                                  3. re: jacksonkev

                                    I just had my second wonderful meal at A.T. and termed it a "blow out experience." But it's not for everyone.
                                    http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/...

                              2. re: John Talbott

                                John, can I beg a little more from you? I am astonished to see that you gave Les Déserteurs first place. I don't remember your being that euphoric about it. In fact, I think I must have missed your comments.

                                I ask because, granted that we visited early on, we found it quite adequate, satisfactory but neither revelatory nor noticeably delicious. A decent meal, nicely plated and served but, for us, not worth cashing another of our all-too-few dining opportunities. What did we miss?

                                A more personal quibble is finding poor little Roseval almost off the list. This is one of our favorites for a hip but soulful dinner. But then, charismatic Som Erika could pour us buttermilk and we'd be charmed. We've always had excellent and intriguing plates to go with her wonderfully unexpected wine selections.

                                1. re: mangeur

                                  I'm not sure what I can say to answer. I responded about the places jackson listed rather than my top picks, Les Deserteurs is not my top pick this year - the top ones are AT, Kigawa, BAT, Servan, Sur le fil, Maquis, Maison Amerique Latin, Bon Georges, Yard, Regis, Clown Bar, L'Envie du Jour, Cybele, Will, Jeremie, Mangetout, Rubis, LaFaille and Tourbillon before we get to Les Deserteurs. I'd better update my blog.
                                  However regarding Les Deserteurs. My first meal was good http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/... and the second as impressive. http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/...
                                  It's very light, inventive stuff that may not be for everyone.
                                  As for Roseval, I'll go once they open for lunch. It's not on my list only because I've never been.

                                  1. re: John Talbott

                                    Le BAT is open all August, although Paris-by-Mouth had it down for closed most of the month.

                                    1. re: John Talbott

                                      Thanks, John. I've reviewed both your reports. I'm away from my main computer that holds my photos but will compare our dinner with your two lunches to see the progression of their plates over time as they settled in.

                                      1. re: John Talbott

                                        Mangeur, I had dinner at Les Déserteurs last week... it was even better than my first meal there a few months ago. While we often talk about restaurants that have a bad night, maybe we should also consider that very good restaurants have better than usual nights too.

                                        1. re: John Talbott

                                          A slight revision in my rating given above.
                                          A meal at Le Tourbillon today was more in the range of ordinary (5-6) than good (6-7) so Le Tourbillon drops down.

                                    2. looks like you have a good selection to choose from while you're a Paris. :)

                                      13 Replies
                                      1. re: ChefJune

                                        Indeed. So far, in no particular order, my list for dinners/lunches for various reasons (and August closures) has been pared down to...

                                        Restaurant Les Déserteurs
                                        Le Servan
                                        Clown Bar
                                        Restaurant Pierre Sang
                                        Le Richer
                                        Coretta
                                        Le Chateaubriand
                                        Roseval
                                        Le Mary Celeste (drinks and snacks)

                                        1. re: jacksonkev

                                          Looks great, in fact considering it's August, it's spectacular. Nice job paring. Enjoy them all!

                                          eta, I would not be afraid to phone any of these. Greet in French, ask if they speak English and I am sure that they will each and every one switch to English.

                                          1. re: jacksonkev

                                            A great list. Just a little quibble with Chateaubriand ... it's little girl with a little curl right in the middle of her forehead kinda place... when she's good, she's very good indeed but when she's bad, she's horrid... but given the circumstances and closures, probably worth the risk in your case.

                                            Your choices are all modern French. This is also my preferred genre but I also need a regular doses of trad. In case you start to suffer from food fatigue or déjà-vu, maybe a few trad classics like Chez Denise in Les Halles for consideration.

                                            1. re: Parnassien

                                              re:Chateaubrind...I have similar reservations (no pun intended). I missed it in 2008 when I was last in Paris and have been beating myself up over it. Maybe it's time to let go, non?

                                                1. re: Parnassien

                                                  Chez Denise not open most of August, is it? For August traditional, I would look to Joséphine, Georges (Porte Maillot).

                                                  1. re: souphie

                                                    Chez Denise will be open when the OP is here... annual hols = 12 July to 17 Aug.

                                                  2. re: Parnassien

                                                    "she's good, she's very good indeed but when she's bad, she's horrid." and I hit the horrid times for Aizpitarte.

                                                  3. re: jacksonkev

                                                    Mangeur/Parnassien,

                                                    Thank you for all your great tips...I love Paris but only get to go once every 5-6 years. It looks like a lot has changed since I was there in 2008. Very few places on these lists were around (or at least on my radar) back then.

                                                    Since I have your ear...do any on my list really stand out. If pressed how would you rank them overall?

                                                    Thanks again!

                                                    1. re: jacksonkev

                                                      It's a good list. Prioritizing it is a strictly personal judgment. Aka a crapshoot. Even at Chateaubriand, DH liked it a lot, I didn't. Neither of us was wrong. :)

                                                      1. re: mangeur

                                                        Totally agree...

                                                        I'm thinking dinners:

                                                        Restaurant Les Déserteurs
                                                        Le Clown Bar
                                                        Restaurant Pierre Sang
                                                        Roseval

                                                        lunches:

                                                        Le Servan
                                                        Le Richer
                                                        Coretta

                                                        Le Mary Celeste (drinks and snacks)

                                                        1. re: jacksonkev

                                                          Excellent. Do you need someone to carry your bags?

                                                          1. re: mangeur

                                                            Haha thanks...not as of yet but I may need a tailor to let out my pants at the end of my trip.

                                                2. Guy Savoy is open all summer.

                                                  1. I was curious if anyone knew if Roseval has any August closures planned? I can't see anywhere that they are closed but there are X'ed out dates on their online booking tool...

                                                    6 Replies
                                                    1. re: jacksonkev

                                                      I would guess that x'ed out dates indicate either closure or complet. If possible, give them a call. Perfect English spoken.

                                                      1. re: mangeur

                                                        That's kind of what I was thinking...I'll call and double check.

                                                        1. re: jacksonkev

                                                          I was there a couple of days after they re-opened last September and would be surprised if they didn't take some kind of break this year, for what that's worth.

                                                          Will add that your new and newer list is very much to my taste also. I'll get your bags if Mangeur drops out.

                                                      2. re: jacksonkev

                                                        (in a post-clubbing haze on a very sweaty night so sorry in advance if I don't make sense)
                                                        I'm pretty sure Roseval operates in Aug as an evening-only no-rezzie wine bar without the main chefs (holidaying in Sardinia) and a very pared down menu. But email to make sure... email address on their website.

                                                        And it's a shame that so few Hounds seem to make it there and, when one wants to, gets a pale August version of it. In normal times, it really is a gem. So Jacksonkev, I'm throwing some respect at you even though you won't be able to have the full experience there.