First timer to Rome & Greve - Family of 4 (boys ages 8 & 13)
We will be in Rome for the first time in August, staying at the St. Regis (Thank you SPG points), and looking for family trattoria recommendations. We will be doing a Vatican Tour, Colliseum Tour during our 3 nights there, so any recos near the hotel, or near the major sites would be greatly appreciated. We will also be staying in Greve at the Villa Vignamaggio for 4 nights, and looking for recos in the Greve area.
My favorite trattoria in Rome:
Trattoria Da “Oio” a Casa Mia, Via Galvani, 43-45. For Testaccio cuisine
La Taverna del Ghetto, via del Portico d'Ottavia, 8, for Roman's Jewish cuisine (kosher). I hasten to add that there may be better kosher restaurants, and i'll leave it to other Chowhounders to mention them.
Enoteca Corsi, via dei Gesu 87, dinner (“lunch" to you Yankees) only
Armando al Pantheon, a stone’s throw from the Pantheon, and very popular with Chowhounders. It would work also for supper (“dinner” to you Yankees”). an upscale Trattoria
La Campana open on SU, also good for supper. and upscale Trattoria
Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara. Largo dei Library 88. cl SU Supper only, 5pm-10. Here is a small Trattoria with its specially (indeed about the only main course on the menu) fried cod
In the area around the Vatican, which is mostly a wasteland for dining, yet last February I ate well at the simple trattoria Il Mozzicone dei Fratelli POGGI, Borgo Pio 180, yet last April it wasn't so good.
Via Victorio Emanuele Orlando #75 the PASTICCERIA DAGNINO. I haven’t been here a several years, yet when I was there, I ate at a reasonable price. I think it’s close to your hotel. It’s really a quick-stop restaurant. You can ago inside, get a tray, and eat cafeteria-style tavola calda for sandwiches and hot food. Or you can go outside in the Gallery and eat with waiter-service. This latter option costs more. The place is also famous in Rome for Sicilian pastry and candy. Again, Chowhounders who've been there more recently may wish to chime in.
Near the Coloseum, another gastronomic wasteland, is the Osteria Nerone. It's been eight years since I've been there. Our own Maureen Fant recommends it.
Near the Vatican I highly enjoyed Pizzarium for lunch and Il Sorpasso for dinner. L'Arcangelo also gets rave reviews but I have not been. Admittedly, Pizzarium and Sorpasso don't really have a "family trattoria" feel but the food is very good.
Prior to dinner at Il Sorpasso, my girlfriend and I deposited ourselves at Vice Cafe for several hours to escape the tourist throngs at the Vatican Museum when it became too much. They have great sweet treats, coffees and teas, craft beers, plus Vice gelato on hand. Sit indoors or tables outside and watch modern Romans go about their lives.
Just ate at both Pizzarium and Sorpasso a couple of weeks ago in Rome and liked both. My only reservation about Pizzarium for lunch is that you might prefer someplace with indoor seating (and preferably air conditioning) during the mid-day August heat. Perhaps you could reverse and have lunch at Sorpasso? Both are very good choices to escape the Vatican crowds. A nice option for a quick and casual lunch might be Supplizio--you have to cross back over the Tiber, but it's not too far. Same owner as L'Arcangelo and delicious suppli.