French hound coming to Seoul - Need a few insights
- Rio Yeti Jun 23, 2014 08:23 AM
Hello to all,
I come from the French board. I come in peace. And I come hungry !
I will be in Seoul in August, and like most of my trips, it will be essentially focused on food (oh, and that little thing called ... art...). Being used to not trust food recs outside of Chowhound, I naturally turn to your knowledge for a little help.
I have researched this board, and realized that not many places are talked about, so I came up with a surprisingly short list, which probably means that for once in my life I will improvise my food itinerary more than I will plan it (which is not necessarily a bad thing).
But just to be sure, I come to you with my list of places, and a few questions.
-- Bong San Jib --
I plan on trying the Chadobaelgi and maybe the Doenjang-jigae.
Price : I couldn't find any information online about the price of this place... can anyone tell me how much it would be per person ?
-- Bon Pi Yang --
From what I understood, this is a chain ? I plan on trying the Mool Naeng Myun, and maybe some pork ribs.
Price : Around 30$ pp
-- Heukdonga --
Apparently the Hanjoengsal (pork neck) is a must... maybe some pork belly as well.
Price : Around 20$ pp
-- Budnamujip --
As per a recommendation on Chowhound, I plan on going at lunch and having their Galbitang, not their barbecue.
Price : Around 18$ pp
-- Gangnam Myun Oak --
Will go for the Galbijjim (braised beef ribs).
Price : Again, I couldn't find any info. Can someone give me an idea of the price ?
-- Sawhuleh Boleebap --
Bossam (steamed fatty pork) with barley bibimbap.
Price : No info found. Please help.
-- Mandoojip --
Price : Around 8$ pp
-- Junk Sik Dang --
Ok, here comes the tricky part... I'm not sure I want to go there. I have been to a few high-end restaurants in France, in Japan and in the USA. I have found Junk Sik Dang, because it is apparently one of the only high-end places in Seoul that actually does korean food... but do I really want to go there ? Will the experience be unique enough, or will it still feel like the same kind of modern refined cooking I could have eaten in Paris or elsewhere ?
And if you do think I should go, is the lunch worth it, or should I go to the more expensive dinner ? (for instance in Paris, some starred places have amazing values for lunch while other places seem to hold out and not give you a true feeling of their quality unless you pay the whole dinner tasting menu).
Price : Around 50$ pp (lunch). Around 80$ pp (dinner).
-- Sushiko --
Another dilemma... I live in Paris, and the sushi is... pretty bad. Even high-end places don't compare to the most mundane sushi in Tokyo.
Seoul is closer to Tokyo on the map... but does that mean that the sushi there is closer to the japanese quality ? I really miss good sushi... so I'd love to have some, but if you think the quality is not worth it, then I may accept the fact that I will have to go back to Japan to have good sushi.
Also I've heard of hwe, but it seems to be very different, and not really what I long for (not saying I will not try it though).
What do you think ?
Price : Around 50$ pp.
That's it !
So aside from the questions about prices, I would like to know if you find my choices well thought out ? Should I change a restaurant for another ? And apart from the obvious street food, and local joints where I will go most of the time, do you feel there is a particular korean food that is lacking in my list and I should try ?
And finally, a question from Mrs. Yeti... She is really sensitive to spicy food, and we plan on asking as much as possible for her dishes to "not be spicy"... Is there anything on my list where that will just not happen, and the food will definitely be spicy ? (in which case I will probably go alone).
Thank you very much for your help.
Can't wait to discover Seoul !
T. Tilash a.k.a. Rio Yeti
Hello Rio Yeti, is this your first trip to Seoul?
-- Bong San Jib --
Price: 160g chadolbaegi for 25,000W, jjigae for 2 is 10,000W so 33,000W per person. (http://www.menupan.com/restaurant/one...) At lunch they have this combination as a cheaper set which is (iirc) 17,000W but at least 2 people have to order this same set.
-- Gangnam Myun Oak --
Price: galbi-jjim (small) 35,000W, jjin-mandu 7,000W, naeng-myun 8,000W = 50,000W would be enough for 2 I think, so expect ~25,000 - 30,000W per person.
-- Sawhuleh Boleebap --
Bossam (steamed fatty pork) with barley bibimbap.
Price : Here's the website - http://www.aprilbori.co.kr should be 15,000 to 20,000W per person. This is more like 'well-being' food where you feel good and healthy after eating the boribap.
Spiciness shouldn't be a problem with any of the places you have on your list, at least for the main dishes - some of the side dishes (banchan) will probably be spicy but she can skip those & still enjoy the meal.
As for sushi, it would be closer to the Japanese quality but I definitely still prefer Japan for that. Many (though not all) sushi restaurants in Korea also have some Korean inflection e.g. their typical 'course menus' come with things like Korean-style spicy fish stew, fried foods, so if you want a sushi-only experience a la Japan you do have to check what type of sushi restaurant it is.
Jung Sik Dang has some Korean elements to it and it's not pricey (quality is consistent at lunch and there are a number of common items w/ dinner menu) so I do think it's worth a try.
I could make other suggestions on food but I'm not sure what you like - however in summertime Koreans like to eat ginseng chicken soup (samgyetang) and red bean ice (patbingsu - though there are also many other popular variations on the shaved ice theme beyond the traditional red beans + ddeok [like mochi] e.g. fruit, ice-cream...) so you may like to try that too?
Thank you for your answers !
Yes this is my first trip to South Korea, and I will be staying most of the time in Seoul (although I hope I can manage to go out of the city for a few days).
My knowledge of Korean food is very limited, but I'm working at it !
About sushi, if I decide to have a lunch at a sushi place, do you think I should make it a special lunch (such as Sushiko) or can I just go to any sushi-shop, and although it will probably not be excellent, it will still be incomparably better than what I can get in Paris ? I know it's a trick question, hard to answer... I may just have to go and find out by myself... (this trip is really about discovering Korean food... it's just that... I have an addiction... and it may be hard for me to bypass it !)
After studying the menus at Jung Sik Dang, I can see that indeed their lunch offerings are almost identical to the dinner dishes, for a lot cheaper. So I will go for lunch there.
I can't believe I didn't plan a place for Samgyetang, as it is one of the few dishes I have actually heard about... So after a little more search I saw Simon recommending Baekje Samgyetang, and I also found Tosokchon which seems famous (which is not necessarily a good thing). Any input on those places or another one ?
I hadn't heard of Patbingsu. But if it's anything like Japanese Kakigori, I'm not a big fan of it... so although I may end up ordering one (or more) to help me with the heat of August, I will probably not cross town to a particular one. I'm intrigued by ddeok though, because I love mochi.
I also read about Jindo Jip and its Kongukksu which seems to be a nice way to deal with the heat as well.
It's hard for me to define my preferences in food, because I like everything from the cutting edge modernist cuisine to the homey hole in the wall comfort food... I guess I'm not that interested to eat in another place similar to Jung Sik Dang, and would prefer to focus more on discovering the wide range of Korean cooking, which is unknown to me.
Oh yes, I also am thinking of doing a cooking class at the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine... I'm really not the kind of guy who does cooking classes when I visit another country, but this seems a little different, and may give me a more in-depth view of some of Korean cooking. Do you have any experience with this course ?
re: Rio Yeti
Oh good for you, one month will allow you to explore a lot more of Seoul / Korea! Especially if you haven't tried much Korean food before, I feel like the list you have is a good starting point to seek out your own discoveries :)
In terms of types of places to seek out, I think in Korea (given its economic and social background) you'll find that there is a greater wealth of 'hole in wall' comfort food than higher end refined dining. A lot of the foreign cuisines & high end modern restaurants will probably not be of the same standard as rich global cities like NYC, Tokyo or London. Korea has its own court cuisine as well, but that's not something you'll probably want to eat very often in your month there.
As compared to Chinese or Japanese food (given their many cultural and historical associations, there are some similarities in cuisine), you'll notice that Korean cooking is set apart by its use of doenjang (bean paste, like miso but stronger tasting), gochujang (red pepper paste, 60% sweet and 40% spicy) & gochu-garu (red pepper flakes). There's also a wider range of pickled foods (e.g. soy-sauce marinated raw crab). Also a wide range of local mountain vegetables (sanchae) and herbs that you may not have seen before elsewhere. Do explore the basement food halls / supermarkets in the big department stores (Hyundai, Lotte or Shinsegae). Korea is an agricultural country and notable produce includes black pork (similar to Japanese kurobuta), hanwoo (a la wagyu), temperate climate fruit (strawberries, grapes, peaches etc), also oranges from the Southern tropical end (e.g. Jeju hallabong). I apologize for the analogies to Japan but as you seem familiar with Japanese food I thought this would be an easy reference point for you.
Some general food terms that should be useful when deciphering menus - jji-gae (stews), tang (soup), guk (in between soup & stew), jjim (braised stuff), bab (rice dishes), bokkum (stir-fried dishes). If I think of more I'll add on later. Oh and as you like mochi, 'chapssal' means they use glutinous rice in it (e.g. donuts and other baked or fried goods). I do recommend getting a Korean translation app, the Lonely Planet Korean phrasebook or something like that, as a good many of the good places have no English menus (although of course there's always pointing to the next table to rely upon).
As for types of food, perhaps you'll find this interesting? It's a new series running on a big 3 broadcasting channel KBS called "King of Food". http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=...
If you have a list of specific foods that you would like to try in Korea I can suggest some places to check out. I fear otherwise you would end up with a disparate list that reflects more my personal preferences than food you & your wife may actually enjoy (especially given considerations about spice - how much can she take?). For example, you might well like bundaeggi (the larvae Steve recommends) but I definitely don't.
Some answers to specific qns:
Sushiko (Seocho?) - I've not been but I took a look on some blogs and it looks like Korean-style sushi. I think you may be looking more for places like Sushi Cho or Sushi Hyo?
Samgyetang - Tosokchon is not bad, I also like Yeongyang Center. They're a chain and have outlets in the common areas visitors to Seoul would go (Myeongdong, Cheongdam-dong etc). From Tosokchon, you can walk to explore Insadong and / or Samcheong-dong, it's quite a pleasant stroll. There are quite a few places for traditional Korean course menus (similar to royal cuisine) in this area as well as cafes.
Thank you for comparing to japanese food, indeed I can imagine it is not the same, but it does help on understanding better.
I bought a french-korean app, which is nice for learning the basics (hello, thank you, etc...) and it does have a few food translations, but not many... I will try to see if I can find another one that will be more thorough food wise... Although it is a bit confusing, because a lot of things seem to be able to be said in a multitude of ways, and I hope I don't offend anyone by making mistakes...
I will watch the King of Food series before leaving !
I understand that it is more of a "whole in the wall" culture... do you feel like I can't really come upon a bad place (unless particularly unlucky ?). For instance, in Japan I had a lot of restaurants planned ahead, and although I don't regret doing this because I discovered some amazing places, I also discovered that 90% of the places we ended up by chance where absolutely spot on. There was a real pride in making the best food in any joint (which isn't the case in France). Korea seems pretty much as food-centric as Japan, but maybe it's only because all my research is around food...
"How much can she take ?" you ask... honestly... not at all. When I make a big braise or stew and add a tiny red pepper which I barely feel in the end result she tells me that it is "almost" too spicy... But although we will try and work around it, we are also very aware that she (and I) will have to just suffer a bit to enjoy the food, and we're fine with it. My cousin who couldn't stand spicy food, after a trip to India where she couldn't dodge it, told us she just had to get used to it, and it ended up being fine.
Regarding the Sushi, I saw Hyo but it seems a little to expensive, considering my budget is about discovering Korean food... although it is tempting... I will think about the whole sushi thing, and may end up improvising...
I've read a lot of things about the chicken at Yeongyang Center being dry... but it was the fried chicken not the Samgyetang, so maybe the soup is better ?
Again thank you for your great help, I will start shortly making a Google Map with all the different places to go and visit, so that I have a better idea of the geography of the thing !
And meanwhile, I'll start adding a bit more spice to my food here...
re: Rio Yeti
For a one month trip, you should familiarize yourself with Hangul, the Korean alphabet. It is easy and fun. WIth just a little practice, you won't even need an app.
"do you feel like I can't really come upon a bad place (unless particularly unlucky ?)"
A lot of Korean food can get repetitive if you don't seek out different dishes or unique variations. This is where your mapping will come in handy. It's more about that than avoiding a bad, expensive meal - like in Paris. If you ever get outside Seoul, you'll find that prices drop dramatically. There is a serious upcharge for most things in Seoul.
I am fond of saying that there are eight places to eat in Seoul for every step you take. It's pretty much ridiculous.
RipCurl, a quick question... I'm starting to create my custom Seoul map...
I had previously found this location for Bong San Jib :
1-21 Yongsandong 3(sam)-ga, Yongsan-gu
But on the website you link to the address is :
145-19 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu
Are there different locations, or is my first address wrong ? (because I'll be staying in Yongsan, so it could be more convenient).
How long are you going for?
There are some specific Korean dishes that are not spicy, but overall someone spice-averse will have serious problems with Korean food. You should seek out sujebi (hand torn noodle soup), kalguksu (knife-cut noodles, often with clams), and kongguksu (a summer dish, noodles in a cold soy milk broth). Also manuel garlic chicken, kimbap, the aforementioned galbijim is a must, and duck bulgogi, but you'll have to find a duck specialty place. Make sure you get a marinated version. Other items are bindatteok (mung bean pancakes), which can be found at Gwangjang Market where the ladies freshly grind the mung beans right in front of you. If you can stand the thought of eatign larvae, then the following garlic chicken places at Daelim station has a nice pot of chrysalis which makes the perfect repository for the mountain of garlic sauce they give you. Very, very yummy. This place is mentioned in the Seoul Food Tour article:
Wonjo Daelim Maneul Tongdak (원조대림마늘통닭): 02-862-9233 | 73-10 Jinseong Bldg. Guro 4(sa)-dong, Guro-gu
If you have not already seen this, here is the abbreviated version of the Seoul Food Tour with Haechi that lists some -but hardly all- of the famous food alleys of Seoul:
Your wife may be interested in the jumulleok (marinated pork) or the saengseon gui (grilled fish) mentioned in the food tour.
You also might want to find dubu kimchi, which is a two-part dish of plain tofu alongside a stir-fry of fresh cabbage/pork/sliced carrot/onion. So it is not your typical cold, spicy, and strongly fermented kimchi. It has a bit of a kimchi 'tang' to it and has a red pepper sauce, but is only somewhat spicy.
Korea is a paradise for the Chowhound, but is tremendously daunting for the squeamish.
Hi Steve, thank you for your help.
We'll be staying almost a full month.
I know it will be challenging for Mrs. Yeti (and probably myself too) because of the heat levels... but we'll manage !
Thank you for your dish recommendations, I will check all that more thoroughly, as well as the food alleys link.
I have no problem with the idea of eating larvae if they are cooked... (Raw or alive, that's another story...) So I will be checking Wonjo Daelim Maneul Togdak.
Thanks again !
re: Rio Yeti
Ah, in a month you should be able to explore so many food opportunities to make your head spin. Korean food is an acquired taste, but one worth acquiring. for a spice lover it's not very spicy, but it is a combination of spicy, pickled, and unusual textures. It's a whole 'nother world.
Look on a map of Seoul and you will see in between those big boulevards are vast neighborhoods of alleyways that are out of the view but have numerous eating opportunities. I am not the type who normally is attracted to sitting on mats, but I enjoyed that experience as well, and there are certain types of places that will have only the ondol seating.
Thank you RipCurl and Steve !
Yes, one month is a good amount of time ! My schedule there is still uncertain, so I may stay the whole time in Seoul, or maybe go out of town for a few days, but I won't know until I'm there.
I haven't had the time to dive deep into all your recommendations, but I will shortly !
Thanks again, can't wait !
Rio - I hope these suggestions are timely in advance of your Seoul vacation.
I regrettably am unable to advise on local Korean fare; having been here for a year and a half, my yearning is more for European continental fare.
I strongly advise dining at Jung Sik Dang, if you can temper your expectations on the restaurant setting, i.e. the restaurant is a little old, the food will delight you. It is at a minimum, comparable to the quality you would get at a Bib Gourmand in Europe. The food is creative, playful and imaginative.
Another good recommendation for more traditional Korean is Poom (3/F Daewon-Jeongsa Building, 358-17 Huam-dong, Yongsan-gu www.poomseoul.com)
In addition to the above, my wife enjoyed Congdu (Congdu Restaurant, 116-1 Deoksu Palace-gil Jungu. T: +82 2 722 7002 http://congdu.com/main/ko/index.html)
Thank you blownd,
Yes there is still time, I'm arriving at the end of July, so am still planning my food map !
I will go to Jung Sik Dang.
Poom seems nice also, but I think I will focus this trip on only one higher end place, and try to find more "humble" eateries...
I suspect Congdu is also pretty expensive ? (I tried to find prices on the website but couldn't...)
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll look into them deeper for sure !
Thank you, I'll think about it.
However, according to their website, the lunch menus at Poom are 57.750W and 80.850W... and for dinner between 115.500 and 288.750...
Jung Sik is only 44.000-66.000 for lunch, and 110,000-132,000 for dinner... so it does sound like Poom is more expensive...
Rio, good to see you here and looks like you are getting some good recommendations.
While I am not able to give you specific as I return here once every couple of years, here's some things for you to consider as this is your first visit.
Similar to Paris, food of Seoul is a representative and evolution of all parts of Korea as it has been the capital for many centuries. As you work through the food, I think you will learn to recognize and seek out regional (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight_Pr..., plus southern-most Jeju) specialty restaurants. Within these, there are many restaurants that specialize in single main dish with sometimes a side dish or two that either is related to or accompanies it. You've already identified several of these (i.e. naengmyun houses in town will often identify their version with a city that it is styled after such as Hamheung, which is the most known, or Pyungyang- note both are northern provincial cities currently within N. Korea, and as such the dish is, at least for traditionalists, best enjoyed in cold weather) and I think they will be much more rewarding than shops that sells the variety though a good starting point.
In regards to Japanese food, the quality of Japanese restaurants in Seoul is very good and certainly one pays the price for it. Good quality Hwae, which is the korean version of sashimi, also don't come cheap, and main difference between this and sashimi is that hwae, like italian crudo, is usually white fish that has not gone through the aging process that Japanese sashimi usually does. Accordingly, hwae is more texturally-driven with toothy bite or crunch, and has developed less aged fish flavor. Texture aspect of food plays important role and for this reason many hwae plates are accomplanied with sea cucumber, sea pineapple or abalone. As hwae would be even harder to get in Paris as general quality of Japanese food there isn't great, I would recommend seeking this out if you like. Many Japanese restaurants in Seoul do have hwae as part of their menu, but see if you can locate a good specialty place for this which are abundant. Alternatively, visit Noryangjin fish market to buy items of your choice to be prepared for you which is what I do on my visits.
Also not to dismiss is the Korean version of Chinese food in Korea (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korean_C...). While there are many of these abroad especially in US, most prepare a poor replica of ones I crave, and I always visit several of them when I am in town. Restaurants that represent this can range from your neighborhood hole to high-end, and they are very good on both ends of the spectrum and impossible to find elsewhere.
There are two traditional rice-based alcoholic drinks. Makkuli, and its unfiltered version Dongdongju. They are about 6-8% and bit on a sweet side but less so than the Japanese counterpart nigori. Again, there are specialty restaurants where these drinks are a part of their dishes such as various savory pancakes. As for soju, I will leave it up to you to find out amongst good drinking crowd ;)
If you and your wife just about had enough of Korean food for a while and want a comfortable break away, try buffet restaurants located in major hotels. While the the these two words nearly always flash red flags in my instinct, these ones in Seoul are of very good quality and amazing variety. One I visit is Ritz Carlton Seoul; this is likely not in the top tier of hotel buffets, but I find it quite good with good wine list.
Finally, have fun, and trust your good instincts and follow your well-honed senses which I think you clearly have from reading and following your posts. Also, there are many destinations within an hr with easy access from Seoul, so should you feel the need of the countryside as I often do, train and buses are not difficult to maneuver and this is where you will find some real food.
Oh boy... ! :)
Thank you very much Kurtis, indeed I am intrigued by hwae, but I know Mrs Yeti has trouble when a sushi is slightly more chewy/chunky than it should, so I don't think she will enjoy that... the good thing is that I will frequently be on my own as she will have some stuff to do in Seoul, so I may try hwae, although from what I've read I'm not so sure I will like it.
I would love to have the experience of going to the market, picking my ingredients and having them cooked for me... I read about it, but feel a bit shy as a foreigner to do that, it seems that it would require much communication... or maybe not...
I feel a bit overwhelmed with all the information I'm getting, as it is a totally new food culture for me... so I'm pretty sure I will end up more often then not, just going to a place without having a clue, eating, and then going home to research what I just ate. I'm trying to not let the fear of missing out take over me, and just embrace the unknown, and trust my instincts.
Again thank you very much, I will look into all your recommendations.
re: Rio Yeti
"I would love to have the experience of going to the market, picking my ingredients and having them cooked for me... I read about it, but feel a bit shy as a foreigner to do that, it seems that it would require much communication... or maybe not..."
If so, Rio, I think you may want to give this a try. While some level of verbal communication makes it easy, I think one can get by quite alright with a smile, good simple pantomimes, and a pocket notebook/iPhone for clarifying price. As all the small eateries around the market are quite informal, it wouldn't be rude to tilt your head down a bit and point to a plate/item other people are having, or walk by the tables and point to dishes there ( and hey you can always send a small bottle of beer to the table that helped you). It can be bit daunting at first, but my experience with this in most foreign markets were quite positive, and yes usually bit embarrassing but that never last beyond first few bites and sip of the presenting food. My visits to the markets in France is not so much different to be honest: I seem to forget most of words I practiced for the morning once excitement take hold, and end up with bonjour followed by pointing to mouth-watering terrines and cheeses along with my thumb and index finger showing the thickness of the cut I want.
Still in Seoul, and so far things are going great !
I will of course write a report when I'm back in France, but in the meantime, I am hitting you all with a few more questions !
First of, I ate at Bon Sang Jib, the original location in Yongsan. It was really great, the meat had an amazing beefy flavor, and the little vinegary sauce with chives and peppers cut nicely through the fat. The server was also very nice and seemed quite surprised that we had heard of the restaurant. They didn't have the cheaper lunch set however, and the 160g chadolbaegi was 20.000W, and jjigae for 2 was 8.000W. The jjigae was incredibly rich and comforting and well balanced, I thought the little pieces of gristle/fat inside where a bit off putting, but other than that it hit all the right spots !
I have a question about this restaurant to people who've had other chadolbaegi. I'm not sure I want to try another chadolbaegi if it will be inferior, but I'm wondering if this one is really that much better than others ? And if it is, what makes it so much better in your opinion, is it just a matter of sourcing good quality beef ? Is it the thinness of the cut ? Or is it everything "but" the beef (basically the banchan) that make this place stand out ?
Ok, the rest of it will be short... I'm having a blast with food here, and I'm even getting better and better at handling the heat ! ;)
But there are two things that are not on my list yet, and I feel should be, but can't find much info on the internet:
- Sundae (or Soondae). If it is anything like boudin/black pudding/morcilla, this dish is for me. But I don't really know where to have it. I saw there is a "sundae alley", but I didn't really enjoy the experience of the kalguksu alley with all the cooks screaming at you to try and make you seat at their stand. I don't mind street food, or eating on a plastic chair, I just would rather choose my own spot without someone trying to lure me in. Any thoughts on where to have sundae ?
- Fried chicken. I've heard the "chains" or pretty good... but frankly the "Two two chicken" that is near to me looks pretty bad... I read some articles about a place called Kyochon Chicken and another one called Hanchu. Any thoughts on good fried chicken ?
Thanks again for all your help, from me and my palate and my belly, we thank thee !
re: Rio Yeti
The Daelim place I mentioned above is Korean fried chicken, but not the kind I can find easily where I live in the US. It is served on an iron plate. The kind of fried chicken where the sauce is deep fried into the breading must be all over the place, but here is a link to Kyochon, the very popular chain:
Soondae is also ubiquitous in Seoul. All you have to do is enter 순대 (Soondae) and 서울시 (Seoul) into Google Maps and you will get tons of hits. I had some in a soup in Korea, but not in Seoul, and I've had it quite a few times where I live. I don't have a rec for you in Seoul, but I suspect your comment 'looks pretty bad' is telling. If you are concerned about how things, look, then you will surely miss out on a lot of great food. For example, this place specializing in Soondae gets good reviews, but I don't know if it will 'look pretty bad' to you:
Hi Steve, thank you for replying. I'm sorry, I hadn't realize that the chicken place you mentioned was "fried chicken"... somehow I wrote it down as "garlic chicken" and forgot that it was fried... This place is still on my to-do list though !
I need to clarify what I meant by "looks pretty bad"... I've eaten in quite a few small hole in the wall type places in Seoul now, I have no problem with food alleys, street foods, etc... It's just that the "two two chicken" that is near my apartment is very small, seems to be always empty (when I pass by), and they have fried chicken waiting in the window, so it doesn't seem like they cook it to order... These are the reasons why it "looks bad" to me, not because it's "gritty" or doesn't require a jacket ! ;)
I will look out for soondae, and if I pass near the place you mention I will have a go, thanks.
Well... I ended up going to gwangjang market today, and lo and behold I came across some soondae... Maybe I should have gone to that place in Yeonji-dong which wouldn't have been very far, because I was somewhat disappointed, I found it to be pretty bland (it was the steamed version), and a bit hard to swallow those big chunks...
I had an awesome Bindaetteok though, so not all is lost.
But soondae hasn't seen the last of me... I'll be back for more (in fact, the pictures on the blog with the squid version look really appetizing !).
Yes it did come with the salt (and they also added a few pieces of jokbal, which was also not as good as one I had a few days earlier)...
I tried to find a stand where the soondae was steaming, and where people were eating it. But it felt like there were too much noodles inside, and not enough of the "good stuff"... I did see a few soondae plates (without trying them) since then (around town or in restaurants), and their color looked darker, and less packed with noodles... Also maybe I'm just not fond of the steamed version and would prefer them in soup, or stir fried... It may also be a personal preference, I really love spanish morcilla, but the taste is very "assertive" and rich.
re: Rio Yeti
No versions of soondae will come close to the richness of boudin noir or morcilla; it's just a different dish. While it satisfy the definition of "meat in a casing" the dominant stuffing is cellophane noodle and barley/rice, and blood functions as binder.
Bit different than soondae, there's Sunjee -congealed/cooked blood that is cut in cubes- with eponymous stew SunjeeGook, or another variation called HaejangGook; both are in the category of "hangover food" though they are eaten at any occasions. My favorite among this category is a simple Kongnamul Gookbap (bean sprout soup with rice, this does not contain sunjee thogh) and when the broth is done right, it is light, flavorful, and meets all the definition of comfort food.
Sorry for the late reply (I was in Hadong, far from the internet...). And thanks for all the info.
Unfortunately my trip is coming to an end on wednesday, and I've yet to try a few dishes high on my list... So I guess I will delve deeper in the world of bloody food next time I come...
re: Rio Yeti
Looks like you are getting to know the devil (is in the detail)!
It's a more front part of the brisket (poitrine de bœuf). As these cuts can be tough (as with the latter part of the brisket known as woosamkyup/우삼겹 which starts at the bottom end of short rib and with added fat) they are slightly frozen and cut paper thin for easy grill and marinate. Together they are inexpensive cuts (but quite tasty nonetheless) compared to the tenderloin(anshim 안심), rib eye(deungshim 등심), strip loin(chaekkeut 채끝), outside skirt(anchangsal 안창살, or under blade steak/roast(salchisal 살치살).
For me it depends on the quality of the meat: if I am at a restaurant that sources top quality, I really am focused on the meat, and am looking to taste various cuts. If I am at an inexpensive drinking joint who is likely to carry chadolbaegi and woosamkyup, everything "but" the beef can do wonders.
This has significantly less blood/iron/mineral taste than boudin noir and is much lighter and less fatty. Also this is usually steamed, and so finding one when it is recently cooked is probably as important as finding the "best" one. If you can see steam coming off of it, it's likely cooked recently, and I would avoid ones that have dried edges. You can always ask if at a street venfor to taste one which I've done in the past. There are many regional and ingredient based differences in this. Yeah, I don't enjoy those alleys you describe either, and usually go to one near where we stay when we are in town (wife is a big fan of this and stops by to ask when they steam the next batch). A real treat for me is a fresh squid version (Ojingeo soondae 오징어 순대) from Kangwon province with a long east coastline where various aromatic vegetables are stuffed and steamed.
Hope this helps, and hope you continue to enjoy.
I actually made the same remark when I came back from Japan two years ago.
It seems to me that the reason why you can go to any little random place wherever you are in Japan, and it will probably be good to great, but if you do the same thing in France it will be bad to mediocre, is the pride that the Japanese cooks (even small ones with no particular ambition) put into their food.
Before the ingredients, the technique, the knowledge, the creativity... comes the pride of the cook.