Brittany/Bretagne - Quimper/Paimpol/Dinan Recs
I will be heading for a quick 3 night/4day trip to Brittany in 2 weeks and I was looking for restaurant recommendations. Near or around Quimper, Paimpol/Lannien and Dinan/St Malo area.
I would have loved to go to l'Ambrosie at Quimper but it's closed on Sunday and Monday (when I start my trip ...) and I heard of La Cotriade in Paimpol, but it seems to have lukewarm reviews so far.
Anyone have delicious foodie recommendations?
I've come up with
Breizh Cafe and Au Pied Cheval as good places to go but would love to hear more. For example where to get a good taste of the Agneau Pre Sale etc. and other must eats!
Also my partner is a vegetarian to my omnivorism, (but I'm not letting that get in the way of French feasting even if it means sitting on my lonesome in a restaurant. :( !) So if you know any good vegetarian restaurants too that would be great!
Attention: you are no longer in oyster season.
I haven't been in a long while - but I would go again in a NY minute - to Tirel-Guerin in la Gouesnière/Saint-Meloir des Ondes. One of those family-run landmarks that keeps up its standards through the decades. I've really never read a bad word about it
Naturally there is no oyster season. The mollusks are perfectly OK all year round, as you say.
This "R months" thing dates back to pre-refrigeration times, when carrying oysters on long distances in the warmer months could be a problem.
Actually, oysters are thinner and waterier in Winter. Spring and Summer are when they are at their plumpest. That is why people from the West Coast of France laugh at Parisians who "prefer" them in Winter. They say Winter is actually the off season.
Last week I had a dozen of the wonderful Tsarskaïa oysters at Breizh Café in Cancale, and they were some of the best oysters I ever ate. And tonight I enjoyed a lovely dinner of local oysters in the Bassin d'Arcachon. Plump, pearly, meaty and delicious. The larger ones we put in a low oven until they opened and it was an absolute treat, with a few chopped shallots and good red wine vinegar.
Recommendations in the area:
Of course I recommend the Cancale branch of Breizh Café, especially their dessert crêpes.
Almost next door, L'Ormeau is an excellent seafood restaurant. Get the araignées (spider crabs).
In Saint-Malo, you may go to the Comptoir Breizh Café with 60 ciders and poirés à la carte.
Right across the street, I ate at Jean-Yves Bordier (the Butter Man)'s bistrot "autour du beurre" and the food is quite good.