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Paris with two adventurous teens

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My husband and I will be in Paris for 4 days in early July with our 13 and 15 year old, staying in an apt in the 4eme. Both have grown up eating french food and can handle themselves in just about any dining establishment, but we'd like to keep it relatively casual and easy on the wallets. Any recommendations? Not just lunch and dinner, but a good glacier (is Bertillon still worth it?), chocolatier, patisserie etc..I lived in Paris 30 years ago but last time in Paris I was so disappointed by my old standbys!

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  1. What are your thoughts on all the recent discussions and recommendations in the Marais?

    It sounds like the four of you have no restrictions or weird or wonderful requests so lots of the recent posts will be a goldmine of ideas.

    2 Replies
    1. re: PhilD

      I meant to reply to you directly instead made my response a post. New to Chow but very excited about it. I agree that it is a fantastic place to mine for ideas & tips.

      1. re: LisaBE707

        Welcome - don't worry about the Marais and tourists - many of them are French - its a goods area with lots happening. If you stroll slightly away from the centre there is lots of good stuff - lots of new stuff that published guides won't have caught up to yet.

        There are lots of recent threads discussing the restaurants, shops and markets in this area

    2. We just stayed in Marais, here is my TR. Most of the restaurants are in Marais, haut Marais or walking distance. I would add Canal St. Martin area especially with teens. Someone just posted they dined from a food truck one night in that area. That might be a good change of pace. Chez Denise, sounds like a fun spot for families and the Marche des Enfants Rouges is a good spot for casual dining- lots of places to pick from.
      http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/977783

      1 Reply
      1. re: macdog

        Thank you!

      2. I'm a bit bummed by the discussion about the Marais. In retrospect I think it would have been less expensive and fun to have stayed in the 9eme or less tourist ground-central but when I lived in Paris, I worked in a French government agency in a gritty working class suburb south of Paris (Arceuil) and went to law school at Paris II on Rue Assas, was dirt poor, and always had a fantasy of staying in the Marais one day...so now time to let this one play out. At the time I used Patricia Well's Food Lover's Guide to Paris was my absolute mainstay and I spent all my "sous" and free time investigating the markets, the small specialty shops and the restaurants I could afford. I wish there was something like that available today but it sounds like the new FLG app is limited and I'll just need to dive into the online forums to figure things out.

        7 Replies
        1. re: LisaBE707

          Fear not! You've found it all right here! :)

          Really hot at the moment is L'Eclair de Genie. Expensive but good. Tell them "one a piece".
          http://www.leclairdegenie.com/

          I personally love the cloudlike stuff at Merveilleux de Fred. One shop just across the river at the beginning of rue Monge.
          http://www.auxmerveilleux.com/?lang=en

          There are premium ice creams all over town. My personal favorite is Grom on rue de Seine. In your hood is acclaimed Pozzetto, which I found too sweet but others don't.
          http://www.pozzetto.biz/

          And these are just starts. Sometimes the best is what you fall over, like the ice cream cart outside a chocolate shop that offered an apricot/pimente sorbet that stole my heart. They had it one season. Period. Memories are made of things like this.

          1. re: mangeur

            Is Bertillon not so much anymore? I loved the old mirrors and ladies in their little suits...like See's Chocolates

            1. re: LisaBE707

              It is still excellent. I just has competition now.

              1. re: LisaBE707

                Bertillion is still my favorite, and I've been enjoying it for 40 years.

                1. re: Nancy S.

                  Berthillon remains unbeatable.

            2. re: LisaBE707

              Get the lefooding app. Up to minutes restaurants as well as old favorites. Also parisbymouth.com. Haut Marais has less tourists for what it's worth.

              1. re: macdog

                Merci! Excellent.

            3. I think being in Marias with teens for 4 days will be great. It is so central - some streets crowded, but not crowded like left bank with all foreign tourists. Some suggestions - Chez Janou and Le loir dans La Theiere (local lunch, very funky) , 3 rue des Rossier. Two places up near Canal St Martin - nice long walk - La Verre Vole and Atmosphere.
              Buy iphone app of Patricia Wells, Paris by mouth, which lists other places by arrondishment and has great glossary of restaurant vocabulary. have fun.

              1. Does anyone know if there is a rooftop cafe or place to scope the Paris skyline as delightful as the old Samaritaine department store rooftop cafe? I always used to take my guests there when they visited. Way better than the Eiffel Tower. It's now apparently an office building. Is it worth the view to have tea at the Musée d'Orsay restau? We're planning to visit the museum.

                1 Reply
                1. re: LisaBE707

                  There's a pretty decent list in a recent thread.
                  http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/9730...

                  An update. The gorgeous rooftop terrace of the Hotel Raphael is no longer a place for us non-zillionnaires. Prices have been jacked up to stunning levels.

                2. You can find all of the things you desire on the rue des Martyrs -pastries ,chocolates and caramels beurre sales,high end jams,cheese. If,after all of that looking and shopping,you want lunch there is a delightful restaurant quite close by-Premices. Just check the opening hours of the shops. It's easy to arrive at the wrong time or the wrong day,