Dans les Landes - Paris - Review
- Rio Yeti May 18, 2014 07:39 AM
A couple of weeks ago, Mrs. Yeti and I went to "Dans les Landes" with a fellow Hound (who shall remain nameless unless he jumps in to reveal his secret identity) and his friend.
I usually try to translate the whole review from french to english, and post it on Chowhound... I have to admit that I may have gone overboard with the mannerism of my writing, and therefore will not embarrass myself by trying to make a translation of it. I will however post this summary :
The decibels are high, your elbows are rubbing with your neighbors', and the room is electric.
If you are tired, or want a romantic and calm place, go elsewhere...
“Dans les Landes” serves traditional south-west dishes, in the form of tapas, with a few twists thrown here and there. And if you don't want to read this whole post, I can tell you right away that I would rather express how I feel about the different things we ate with my tongue out, some drool dripping on my shoes and a vague and long grunt of pleasure.
For those more comfortable with actual words, read on.
The “salade landaise” was served like a spring roll, wrapped in rice paper, it was crunchy and generous and fresh and awesome.
The “Ibaïona ham” was cut to thick, and not that exciting, but still honorable.
The “fried chipirons” were light as a feather, crispy to perfection and were frankly the best fried chipirons, or calamari, or squid, I've ever had. It was mentioned that a tartar sauce or a squirt of lemon could have added a bit of acidity to those bites, true but I would have been afraid to brake those delicate jewels.
The “polenta with duck magret”, served like a croquette, was original, interesting, not bad texture-wise, but a little more virility on the duck side would have been nice.
The “duck hearts” were ever so slightly too salty, but that didn't stop me from writing them a cheesy poem, and asking them to marry me. We lived happily ever after...
The “duck necks” were very flavorful and rich, but my heart already belonged to those hearts... and they were a bit of a pain to nibble.
The “gambas with thaï cream” were very subtle and well balanced. The shrimps were perfectly cooked, and frankly I feel it is a 'tour de force' to bring out such a respectful thaï dish in a landais restaurant.
The “millassou landais” was some sort of deep-fried corn pudding that looked like big french fries and that you would dip in a jam made from dried fruits... Addictive... Surprisingly addictive...
The “crème brulée with passion fruit and saffron” wasn't too sweet, wasn't too acidic, it was like a mellow melody to end such a beautiful meal.
Need I say more ? Don't put your hands in your pocket, trigger the turbo mode, run, faster, now, faster, go !
If you read french and are not afraid by words flowered up like an English garden and/or if you would like to check some pictures of the dishes described, you can head over to : http://www.chezfood.com/2014/05/14/da...
re: Indy 67
Whew. Hychka also talked about Cipirones, I think, and I know that it is a permanent menu item. The possibility that it was removed shocked me. :)
For a period that lasted months, the milassol was taken off the menu. Pti and I complained to anyone who came near us, from the waitstaff all the way to the chef.
The chef does love to experiment and use in-season ingredients. I have loved many dishes that were taken off the menu, some of which reappear later. -- This also needs to be incorporated into our expectations.
I looked at the menu boards and kept wondering what exquisite dishes normally fill those empty spots. Les Landes food was so lovely that the fact that we left a bit of tuna didn't even come close to finishing the tortilla was a minor detail. I wanted to know what other treats would await me on future visits.
Bravo. A delightful English garden indeed.
For those that don't read French, Rio's review in French is really a foodie love letter and laced with poetic quotes. In celebrating and thanking him, another quote might be in order ...Jules Supervielle slightly rephrased to avoid misconception: "Et d’avoir tous ces mots/ Qui bougent dans la tête/ De choisir les (plus) beaux / Pour leur faire un peu fête"
After the letdown of Spring and the fact that I've struck out twice on quality onion soup (please caramelized the onions) I was feeling betrayed by the chefs of Paris and Chartres. After tonight all is forgiven. The talented folks at Dans les Landes have singlehandedly restored my faith. This is authoritative, exciting, delicious food. My husband and I shared the often - praised chiparones, duck hearts and salad Landsise. Add our voices to the chorus of praise. We also ordered the tuna with Asian sauce, the potato tortilla, and the suckling pig with Basque sauce.
The tuna ' s sauce was a cousin to the dipping sauce of the salad Landaise. Absolutely amazing. There are little dollops of a whipped cheese on the tuna dish that make a marvelous counterpoint to the Asian intensity of the dish.
The suckling pig bore no resemblance to any suckling pig we've eaten before. This consisted of three long thin trips of meat liberally studded with bits of gristle and cartilage. Those narly bits must have imparted gelatin and unctuous body and flavor to the sauce. Normally I'd simply pass on meat like that but I savored each bite. The Basque sauce tasted strongly of authentic diced pimento peppers. The potato tortilla was pleasant but unremarkable. Still we valued it's role in our meal as a wonderful counterpoint to the strong flavors of everything else.
We drank a lovely Cotes De Gascogne.
Definitely a memorable meal.