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May 14, 2014 09:53 AM

Malacca, Malaysia - Teochew dinner at the 80-year-old Teo Soon Loong Chan

For over 80 years, Teochew food connoisseurs (including Singapore's ex-President Ong Teng Cheong and ex-Prime Minister Goh Chok Tong) have made a beeline to the dinghy, nondescript-looking little eatery, Teo Soon Loong Chan, for its extraordinarily tasty Teochew repasts, conjured up from a tiny kitchen upfront, using some of the freshest seafood produce caught the same day off the Straits of Malacca.

We finally got round to the restaurant last Saturday - booking a table is a must as the tiny dining room is not much bigger than one's living room.

Dishes we had:
- braised oyster noodles, which was the best-tasting noodle dish I'd had in a long while. We were advised to add a dash of piquant Chinese black vinegar to the noodles. It was very addictive.
- 'hae cho', Teochew minced pork-prawn dumplings wrapped in beancurd sheets and deep-fried. The version here was delicious - crisp exterior enfolding a tasty, meaty filling. Went well with the sweet Thai-style chilli sauce dip provided.
- Braised pork-ribs with bitter-gourd - my favourite dish for the evening. The braising sauce has that elusive flavour which transported me back to my childhood, when olden-day Nyonyas, matriarchs who're fiercely proud of their cooking prowess, conceptualise elaborate sauces using complex combinations of spices: nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, etc.
- Steamed Teochew-style fish: superbly fresh threadfin steamed with salted mustard, ginger and tomatoes. Very good.
- Teo Soon Loong Chan's very popular Teochew yam dessert ("orh nee") served wit boiled sweet potatoes and gingko nuts on the side. This was one of the best renditions I'd ever tasted.

Overall, a stellar meal. Dreaming of my next trip back to Malacca, so I can some eat here again.

Teo Soon Loong Chan
55, Jalan Hang Kasturi
75200 Malacca
Tel: +606-282 2353

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    1. re: Lau

      me too, especially for the bitter melon dish.

    2. The original comment has been removed
      1. The original comment has been removed
        1. Back to Teo Soon Loong (they've dropped the "Chan" from their name) at their spanking new 3-month-old premises last weekend. The restaurant is now located at Kota Shahbandar, a new development outside Malacca's historic quarter, so it's not as accessible as before. However, they now have a nicer, much larger seating area, albeit still as busy and advanced reservations are a must if you want a seat.

          To start, I ordered the two dishes which wowed me the last time: the oyster noodles and the braised pork-rib with bittergourd. Both were excellent - the kitchen's standards have not been affected one iota by the move.

          The steamed pomfret, Teochew-style, was also perfect - superbly fresh, the quality of the fish surpassed those I'd had in similar establishments back in Singapore.

          The oyster omelette was one dish which came up "average". I'd omit this from my order list the next time.

          The dessert was the traditional Teochew "orh nee" - yam paste with pumpkin & lotus seeds. It was par excellence - I'd drive 300km back here again just for this. Teo Soon Loong is another one of those must-not-miss food stops on any culinary visit to Malacca.

          Teo Soon Loong Seafood Restaurant
          42 & 44, Jalan KPKS 1
          Kompleks Perniagaan Kota Syahbandar
          75200 Malacca, Malaysia
          Tel: +60 6-288 0209