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Tokyo / Izuhanto. Please review my trip.

lederhosen May 9, 2014 07:45 AM

First time poster. Thank you to the regulars who have provided such a wealth of information over the years, makes for some great reading.
May I have some opinions and suggestions about my upcoming trip.

Off to Japan on a 24 day family vacation for the first time, dividing our time equally between Tokyo, Izuhanto (Shuzenji ryokan) and Kyoto. I'll put my kyoto food itinerary in a separate post.
Possibly some day trips from Kyoto to Hiroshima/Nara etc.
I speak Japanese reasonably well though I am practically illiterate except for basic kanji.

Tokyo (actually staying in Shimokitazawa)


* Seika Kobayashi
* Kohaku (虎白)
* Gonpachi

I am joking about Gonpachi.


* Sushi Saito and Kyubey (久兵衛). And mid range Uoshin (Shimokitazawa)

I am most looking forward to a trip to Odawara with Japanese friends. Some nondescript 6000 yen per head hole in the wall Shyabu-shyabu/Sashimi place for Hirame, Maguro, Amaebi, Sazae, Ika, buri, Kinmedai.
I have only seen pictures, not sure what goes in the Shyabu-Shyabu and what's for sashimi :) I have also been promised some homemade Kamameshi.

That's all of my sushi budget, other than that sushi on the cheap:
* Standing only sushi: Sakaezushi,Taiyo, Tachizushi Aoi, Nihonbashi Nigi Nigi Ichi
* Kaiten: Kappa, Kura, Sujiro


* Jiro Honten
* Other than that, picking the top 3 on ramendb that are reasonably easy to get to

* Jindai-Ji, no particular place


* Shirube (Shimokita)


* Yakitori Shinka or Torishiki? Birdland? Friends have suggested some local places around Shimokita but they aren't particularly well reviewed.

Same friends insist that best tonkatsu is at Wako and best Udon/Sukiyaki at Mimiu Shibuya. Hmmm.

Izuhanto (Ryokan near Shuzenji):
* kaiseki at the ryokan
* Picking a taka ashi kani (long leg crab) place in Heda port at random. This looks promising: http://heda-marukichi.com/ryouri.html
* Numazu fish market

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  1. r
    ruprecht25 RE: lederhosen May 9, 2014 03:49 PM

    For reasonably priced sushi, I would consider going to Midori Sushi in Umegaoka in place of one of the standing sushi restaurants. Midori Sushi is an extremely popular sushi restaurant due to its strong cost vs performance ratio. Including drinks, the cost is usually no more than 4K-5K yen even for big eaters. The downside is that they do not take reservations and you may have to line up for up to an hour depending on the time of day. Umegaoka is just 2 stops from Shimo Kitazawa on the Odakyu line.

    As for yakitori, Fuku would be a good option. Fuku is located in Yoyogi Uehara, also just 2 stations away from Shimo Kitazawa on the Odakyu line, but in the opposite direction from Umegaoka. Fuku has been discussed often on this board and a search would come up with many hits.

    6 Replies
    1. re: ruprecht25
      lederhosen RE: ruprecht25 May 9, 2014 05:28 PM

      Thank you very much. I read up on Fuku and I'll put it on my list!
      As far as waiting in line at Midori, is there a day of the week/time of day with the least wait? This may not be an easy question to answer.

      1. re: lederhosen
        ruprecht25 RE: lederhosen May 9, 2014 06:31 PM

        I usually go to Midori Sushi around 8:45pm Tuesday - Friday. At that hour, there is usually little or no wait. However, the restaurant closes promptly at 10pm so you have to finish your meal by then.

        1. re: ruprecht25
          lederhosen RE: ruprecht25 May 9, 2014 07:05 PM

          Slightly confused. Midori Sushi *in Umegaoka* ??? Yes Umegaoka is just 2 stops from Shimokita, however there doesn't appear to be a Midori Sushi there. The chain name is 梅丘寿司の美登利 or *Umegaoka* Sushi no Midori. Did you mean the honten in Shibuya?

          1. re: lederhosen
            ruprecht25 RE: lederhosen May 9, 2014 07:31 PM

            There are actually 2 Midori Sushi restaurants in Umegaoka. Go to the original shop. Here is the link:

            1. re: lederhosen
              Robb S RE: lederhosen May 9, 2014 07:57 PM

              The main branch (honkan) is in Umegaoka: http://www.sushinomidori.co.jp/honkan...

              ("honten" is part of the name of the chain, which may be confusing.)

              1. re: Robb S
                lederhosen RE: Robb S May 9, 2014 08:09 PM

                Thanks guys, got it. 本館 / 本店 :)

      2. l
        la2tokyo RE: lederhosen May 9, 2014 04:27 PM

        Do you have Saito already booked?

        16 Replies
        1. re: la2tokyo
          lederhosen RE: la2tokyo May 9, 2014 05:24 PM

          Yes.That was not an easy reservation!

          1. re: lederhosen
            Gargle RE: lederhosen May 10, 2014 03:04 AM

            And Seika Kobayashi? Nice

            I can't see a reason to choose Kohaku over Ishikawa.

            Why Kyubei?

            1. re: Gargle
              lederhosen RE: Gargle May 10, 2014 05:15 AM

              Yes, very excited about Seika Kobayashi and Saito. I planned for 4 über-expensive meals in Tokyo. Kyubei and Kohaku arre easy to get into and well reviewed.
              Ishikawa looks fantastic but I can't drop Kohaku at this point. Meeting friends there. At first they wanted to take me to Ginza Habsburg Veilchen because I am Austrian. No thank you - I am too much of a snob when it comes to Schnitzel and Gulasch.

              1. re: lederhosen
                Gargle RE: lederhosen May 10, 2014 06:17 AM

                Kyubei is not that well reviewed and there are easily 30 better options in that price range that you can get into. That's why I asked.

                1. re: Gargle
                  lederhosen RE: Gargle May 10, 2014 09:18 AM

                  Thank you Gargle. I would consider going elsewhere, however the Japanese friend I am meeting there think it's the best place ever. Not sure I can get out of that one without offending him.

                  1. re: Gargle
                    Robb S RE: Gargle May 10, 2014 07:06 PM

                    I'm sure I'm not the only one here who'd love to hear about those thirty "better options in that price range"....

                    1. re: Robb S
                      lederhosen RE: Robb S May 10, 2014 07:13 PM

                      I second that. Actually what is the price range? My Japanese friend seems to think dinner is 15,000 at Kyubei but tabelog says ¥20,000~¥29,999. For that I can go to Saito almost.

                      1. re: lederhosen
                        Robb S RE: lederhosen May 11, 2014 03:15 AM

                        Kyubei has evening prix-fixe menus priced at Y10,000, Y15,000, Y20,000, Y25,000, and Y30,000.

                        Lunch starts at Y4000, which I think is good value for money, but as I said I'd love to hear about all the better options at that price point.

                      2. re: Robb S
                        Gargle RE: Robb S May 11, 2014 03:31 AM

                        From memory, Oono, Shingo, Ichiyanagi (and I don't even like it, still it's much better), Ichikawa, Namba, Daisan Harumi, Sho, Sho Masa (probably more expensive if you have a tendency to overeat), the other place in Yotsuya (Tero, Teru?)、Zoroku Yuzan (another one that really wasn't for me - heavy handed on the soy and salt), but still better than Kyubei. If you want another 20 then I'll need to be by my notes and a real keyboard. Hardly a challenge.

                        Michelin doesn't include Kyubei in their starred sushi places, so it's anyone's guess where they rank it. On tabelog I think it's somewhere between Zambia and Zimbabwe...

                        But in any event since it seems the OP's list of places is set in stone there's not much point in "reviewing" it.

                        1. re: Gargle
                          lederhosen RE: Gargle May 11, 2014 04:47 AM

                          I suppose I can ask Saito Takashi himself since he used to work at Kyubei :) I hear he is really friendly and great to talk to.

                          1. re: lederhosen
                            Robb S RE: lederhosen May 11, 2014 05:22 AM

                            Yes! Please report back....

                            1. re: lederhosen
                              Gargle RE: lederhosen May 11, 2014 03:28 PM

                              Since you're going to all these places anyway so as not to offend various friends, and since they're all very good (and incredibly hard to get into, in some cases) I think the obvious thing to do is to just enjoy them :)

                            2. re: Gargle
                              Robb S RE: Gargle May 11, 2014 06:23 AM

                              Thanks very much for the list! I'm looking forward to some great Y4000 lunches that will put Kyubei to shame.

                              1. re: Robb S
                                Gargle RE: Robb S May 11, 2014 02:55 PM

                                Sorry, I didn't know the criteria was to compete with the cheapest lunch menu. :)

                                I don't do lunch.

                                1. re: Gargle
                                  Robb S RE: Gargle May 11, 2014 07:03 PM

                                  I see. Do all of the places you list have a Y10,000 dinner menu then?

                                  1. re: Robb S
                                    Gargle RE: Robb S May 12, 2014 02:06 AM

                                    The average diner at Kyubei spends 25000, based on a sample of 230 dinners, with a standard deviation of about 7500. I spend 14000 (nearly half as much!) at Namba for their full, and only, omakase and three glasses of sake, about 18000 at Shingo or Sho, etc. None of the places listed are substantially more expensive.

                                    Is there a theoretical possibility, in each and every one of them, to drink water and eat a cheaper course than what I usually take? I don't know. I think that any reasonable person would describe them as "in the same price range"

                                    eta: and because the internet has such phenomenal memory, I can tell you that ten years ago two of us spent 55,000 at Kyubei, so it's not just the average spend but also more or less my spend.

                2. wekabeka RE: lederhosen May 13, 2014 06:41 AM

                  I lived in the Mishima/Izu Hakone line area for 2 years - it's a wonderful part of the country and a great place to chow around.

                  Every return visit sees me eating double my body weight in the local fish, especially aji himono, kinmedai nitsuke and sakura ebi.

                  If you're interested in unagi, Sakaya is a local favourite for unadon. It's in Mishima Hirokoji, one stop from Mishima Station, or a short walk from nearby Mishima Taisha (worth a visit). Be warned: there are big lines on the weekend.

                  Uogashi Maruten, in Numazu Ichiba, is a local institution. It's cheap, cheerful (though the staff are pretty direct and to the point) and the portions are enormous.

                  Another great seafood option in Numazu is Yamasho.

                  If you're interested in microbrew, Baird Beer's Taproom is a great place to waste an afternoon. They are moving their brewery to Shuzenji this June, so you could try their range & do a tour of the brewery while you're staying in the area.

                  5 Replies
                  1. re: wekabeka
                    Silverjay RE: wekabeka May 13, 2014 06:52 AM

                    I'm seconding Maruten in Numazu. Wrote up about it a few years ago- http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/545290 .

                    1. re: Silverjay
                      lederhosen RE: Silverjay May 13, 2014 07:04 AM

                      Haha, I read that article and it's part of the reason I am not dropping off the rental car back in Odawarato get on the shinkansen to Kyoto. Instead driving leasurly to Shizuoka-Shi, stopping in Numazu on the way.
                      Thanks for that and your many other contributions over the years, some of which have become part of my trip.

                      1. re: lederhosen
                        Silverjay RE: lederhosen May 13, 2014 07:19 AM

                        Cool. You're very welcome...If I recall, there are a bunch of small pay lots near Uogashi Maruten and also a larger parking structure. But that was a few years ago. It seems since I visited Numazu, they have also built a large market/ mall type of attraction with a whole floor of restaurants. It's called Numazu Fish Market INO.

                        Summer season in those parts you can look for iwa gaki, which are ginormous summer oysters. Like fork and knife eating sized. Also, as noted, kinmedai and sakura ebi. I like kinme sashimi myself...Shirasu are also big down there. If you are going with a small group, that is perfect for ordering a bunch of dishes.

                      2. re: Silverjay
                        wekabeka RE: Silverjay May 13, 2014 07:43 AM

                        Silverjay: Oh, great write up! Brings back fond memories of lazy Sundays in the 'Zu. Was there at least one a month between 2005-2007.

                        Lederhosen: Sadly, my favourite izakaya in the area closed down, but Neko has a great little sake selection (the owner always has a couple of bottles of Juyondai in the fridge) if you feel like a drink while in the Mishima Hirokoji area.

                      3. re: wekabeka
                        lederhosen RE: wekabeka May 13, 2014 06:57 AM

                        I have been querying myself silly on tablelog for good places in Numazu and Mishima. Thank you so much for these links. Looking at the tabelog pictures now. Just wow!
                        We should get there right at the beginning of rainy season so hopefully less hiking/biking, more eating.

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