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May 8, 2014 12:34 PM

Non-water proof glue used in cutting board

Hey everyone!
So I just made a cutting board while visiting my grandparents but when I finished the board I noticed that the glue my grandpa used wasn't waterproof(lePage carpenters glue).
So! I was wondering if that would be okay if I seasoned it with mineral oil and coated it with bees wax? Or would it not last and not be worth it? I really like how the board turned out.
Thanks for your time,

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  1. I don't know the answer but would love to see a picture of your cutting board. What type of wood did you use?

    1 Reply
    1. re: Jerseygirl111

      Will post pictures when I get home but I used walnut in between two pieces of maple!

    2. I think beeswax will definitely help "seal" the surface and reduce the amount of water reaching the glue. I would use just the beeswax with minimal mineral oi. The other thing to do is to use tung oil (a drying oil) to coat the surface.

      I think it should be fine in particle usages.

      1. LePage carpenters glue is a type I wood glue, so it's not very water resistant. The board will be fine for use with relatively dry ingredients, but not for very wet ones, and you certianly can't wash it with more water than would be in a damp sponge. Even sealed with bees wax, it will not take the water as well as a type II or better yet a type III glue. It would make an excellent cheese board or bread board. With a batch of soggy veggies you would need to keep the water moped up and dry the board regularly. Sorry for the bad news, but the realities are the realities. I wouldn't take the chance of getting it wet, even with beeswax as a sealant. You could use salid bowl finish, which is more of a surface finish that hardens, but you would still need to be careful with the water.

        1. Well worth it...This is something you'll have forever. Chem and mikie have great advice

          1. I would not use beeswax on a cutting board. It stays sticky. Mineral oil will seal it or you could use raw Tung Oil which is what I use on my boards.

            4 Replies
            1. re: JoeBabbitt

              Chem and I both use a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil. The combination is a bit more water repellent than just mineral oil in my experience. I start out with mineral oil only and after the board is well saturated I apply the combination which has about the consistancy of soft paste, then I buff the board once it's dried. It's easy to maintain.

              1. re: mikie

                I am leaning towards the mixture of the two. I was thinking 1/3mineral oil and 2/3 wax. And will also keep in mind your earlier advice of only cutting drier materials on it for sure!

                1. re: Northerntide

                  You want the mixture to be soft enough to apply and for it to penetrate the wood. A little beeswax goes a long way. I heat the mineral oil in the microwave and keep adding beeswax, it's probably about 50/50 by volume, but the beeswax is shaved with a veggie pealer and added loose. I've seen a ratio by weight, but don't recall what it is. Good luck! There's nothing like a wood board you made yourself.

              2. re: JoeBabbitt

                I agree with Mike too, but you are also correct.

                <The combination is a bit more water repellent than just mineral oil>

                Both mineral oil and beeswax can repel water, but mineral oil can easily come off, especially if I use detergent or soap to clean. The beeswax help give the mixture a bit more "staying power"

                You are correct that beeswax can make the board a bit of sticky feeling in the beginning. However, in my experience, this sticky feeling will disappear fairly quickly. It has this sticky feeling because the beeswax above the cutting board surface grab onto the knife edge like gummy substance. After some usages and washing cycles, the surface beeswax should be removed. Now, we are left with beeswax in the cutting board.