Psst... We're working on the next generation of Chowhound! View >
HOME > Chowhound > France >
May 4, 2014 02:29 PM

Around Vezelay?

Leaving very soon and we'll stop in Vezelay for a day.
Are there any interesting places in the area that you could recommend other than L'Esperance within a 30 minute drive?
There has not been a post about this in a while i cannot find any recommendations. I am looking for a dinner place and could drive around the area. For lunch we will probably have a picnic from our Paris stock.

Also will be spending another 2 days around Sainte Sabine in the Chateux hotel with the same name. They have a restaurant called Le Lassey. Anyone has heard anything about it? Would appreciate any suggestions around the area.

Already have a reservation for Sunday lunch one of the days at Ferme de la Ruchotte and will post afterwards about it. I'm super excited about this one.

Thanks in advance

  1. Click to Upload a photo (10 MB limit)
  1. Last summer we stayed a couple of km out of Avalon at Girolles Les Forges. Our room, actually two level suite, the Pigeonnier, was very comfortable. The table d'hote in the evening was exceptional. Quite accomplished cooking and lively conversation at the communal (international) table. We would recommend highly. It is a very viable stop from which to visit Veselay.

    1. Les Chatelaines is a ferme-auberge in the old town of Avallon.
      Nearby in the beautiful castle village Les Bazoches is another ferme-auberge of the same name as the village
      Like all ferme-auberges, they serve simple fresh farm fare. Like all ferme-auberges, mobbed by locals. Must reserve.

      1. I think I may have mentioned previously Les Deux Ponts, in a lovely sleepy hamlet just minutes below Vezelay. We've been twice, most recently two years ago. Simple and elegant, run by a nice young couple. Two forks and spoons in the red guide. If you go, make sure to walk over the two bridges, one of which is very ancient. - Jake

        1. Thanks Jake for pointing us to Les Deux Ponts in a tiny village Pierre-Perthuis where we spent a nice evening and beautiful morning that followed. Population of about 500 is what Marianne - the wife of chef who together runs this small but efficient place- had told us which would make it a peak population going back several decades, this lovely village has all the charm we love about visiting small villages on a first day drive out of CDG. Dinner here was straight forwardly good with elegant touches (the chef Philippe has cooked in some big French kitchens in California and Florida prior to settling here), and seeing scarce cars slow to take the curve while lingering in their courtyard sipping a burgundy after the dinner in a setting like this make it a curious distraction. With puzzled look, "Just keep going down" was the direction we got from Marianne when asked for the bridge the next morning, and it was just the kind of (no)direction perfect for the ramble.

          We had a lunch in Vezelay on arrival at Le Bougainville, and don't have much good to say here. Perhaps that we were late in arriving here without reservation on a Monday (got lost a bit as well as to give a ride to a couple of lost middle-aged hikers/pilgrims nearby).

          4 Replies
          1. re: Kurtis

            Salut Kurtis, How nice to see this post. Ahhh, you got to see the ponts in the morning steamy mist. Dandy pics.

            We can imagine you there, chatting with Philippe and his Dutch wife, Marianne (is she still rolling her own strong cigarettes?) sipping on the terrace as those 75 license plates drive by, and then ambling down through the hamlet's "main street" (as you know there are barely any side streets) to the two bridges. Indeed, all of this not far from CDG -- yet a world away.

            When we were first there back in November 2007 with some other friends, Marianne suggested we go up to the war memorial, just beyond the big and newer pont, where the whole village (at least 25 folks, plus us) turned out for the traditional Armistice Day ceremony.

            Marianne had told the mayor that she had some Americans staying with her and so he apparently revised his speech (all in French of course) to acknowledge the six of us and the 60,000 Americans who had died nearby in the great war. It was a gracious and moving gesture, and even now it reminds us of the many reasons for our love of traveling in France beyond Paris. (See photo, including the mayor, wearing a dashing sash.)

            PS, when we returned again with other friends for a fine lunch there in the fall of 2011, I was so glad to see my favorite deux chevaux was still parked right across the street from the hotel. Did it remain for you we hope? (See second picture; and I'll add a third of the hotel in November -- fireplace weather.) – Jake

            1. re: Jake Dear

              We were honored to have parked our car next to it!

              What a nice story Jake, and yes the simple gestures of kindness whether it be in the streets or markets, or in your case the mayor in rural France is truly one of a kind in our experience.

              Well, perhaps better fitting for our occasion, Marianne must have called upon the representatives of the local bovine collective as they were out to greet us on our walk...

              1. re: Kurtis

                Kurtis, please email me re a couple of non-food thoughts not allowed on Chow.

            2. re: Kurtis

              Vezelay-Pierre-Perthus is an area that I love. Great recommendations here, as usual, from Kurtis and Jake. Merci.