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Apr 29, 2014 05:48 PM

4 nights in Rome itinerary, a few questions

Hi everyone! I've followed CH through many travels but finally just joined! After MUCH research I've narrowed down my itinerary but have a few questions. My husband and I have been to Italy 2 other times (2000 and 2006) so I'm assuming lots have changed!!
We're foodies and plan our trips around food! We've done the Mich stars and fine dining style last trip so are more into farm-to-table, creative or traditional and just good food done well.
3 nights, 2 lunches and then 1 night in the end to leave Italy. Here's what I tentatively have planned:

Antico Arco
Roscioli (menu looks large, good or bad thing?)
Marzapane (haven't heard much on CH, thoughts? K Parla thanks!)
L'arcangelo (not 100% sold on this one, this is the one I'd leave out)
Papa Baccus (went twice in 2006 and loved the Chianina steak and great pasta, haven't heard much since then, thoughts? Anyone been recently?)

Pizzarium (a must!!)
Armando al pantheon
Ceasare al casaletto
With only 2 days is Ceasare worth the trip?

Gelato: teatro, millennium, fatamorgana, Claudio torce

I really appreciate thoughts and opinions! Thanks so much!

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  1. I haven't been to Antico Arco or Marzapane and have never heard of Papa Bacchus, so I can't comment on those. If you're in Rome on a Thursday, l'arcangelo has absolutely sublime gnocchi, so I would keep that in consideration.

    Roscioli gets mixed opinions. I've only been once, and the burrata is wonderful. I loved the creamy sauce and the chunks of guanciale in the carbonara, but found the pasta overly al dente, almost crunchy.

    I would consider Cesare al casaletto for dinner, rather than lunch--that makes the distance less of an issue. (Haven't been there yet, but I am planning to go this summer).

    I haven't been to Armando al pantheon recently, but they're always a solid choice and seem to be at the top of their game since the recent renovation. It's on my short list for this summer's trip.

    1 Reply
    1. re: lisaonthecape

      Thanks so much! I'm leaning toward Armando for my lunch choice. If I move ceasare to dinner I'm just not sure what to take away.

    2. Antico arco is nice, roscioli is good for certain things, marzapane is mot as good as it is hyped in the italian blogosphere but has potential (need to reserve long ahead of time, it is small), l'arcangelo is great for gnocchi but you can also try his suppli (ehich is famous) in the newly opened and awesome supplizio as street food, papa baccus no, pizzarium must, armando good cesare great but do not go for lunch, go for a long and leisurely dinner. Add vice to your gelaterie.

      5 Replies
      1. re: vinoroma

        thanks vinoroma!
        I was thinking of ceasare for dinner but wasn't sure how safe it was for the ride home at night. I'm well traveled so not easily scared, but you never know at night on public transportation.
        Also, we will have 2 friends joining us for 1 night. It is their "splurge night" (grad students). She picked Antico Arco but is flexible with change, what is your honest opinion of it for a night like that?

        1. re: Traveling_teacher

          You can go or not go to Cesare al Casaletto, but the safety of the transport should not enter into your decision. The restaurant is about three feet from the tram stop, and the tram is perfectly safe. Naturally, nobody can say that won't be the night a maniac decides to hold the number 8 hostage, but barring the bizarre, it is one of the safest journeys on public transport you will take. And they will all be safe.

          I like Antico Arco, but many people don't.

          1. re: Traveling_teacher

            What mbfant said. Also, just a thought for the night your friends will be joining you - you might want to do cesare that night. It is not fine dining, so if that is what they want, i understand this is not the right choice, but i love and recommend going to cesare (not ceasere) in a group if possible: gives you the chance to order many different dishes to be shared by everyone and wines, too.
            If they really want to splurge and are ready to pay for that one dinner and want fine dining, my go to choice is metamorfosi.

            1. re: vinoroma

              a splurge for grad students may not be in the metamorphosi price range though! it would be easier if @travelling_teacher suggested what a splurge would be.

              1. re: jen kalb

                I don't think they want to spend as much as metamorfosi would cost. They're thinking more like high end but not fine dining. Around 80€ each but including wine.

        2. You certainly have done your research!

          You're right, have not heard about Papa Baccus in quite a while. I never ended up going when it was getting more buzz, but have a feeling it must have fallen off the radar for a reason.

          I had a great meal at Marzapane, and recommend it for lunch. I thought it was great value, and the cooking and presentation superb. A very sophisticated menu in a very casual atmosphere.'re here for such a short time,not sure the trek out is worth it this time around.

          Newly opened Gelatria: Carapina, next to Roscioli Bakery.

          I'd head to both Armando and Cesare for dinner, rather than lunch.

          If you're interested in farm to table, then you might want to make the trek out to Proloco DOL. It's a bit out of the way, but the owner, Vincenzo, puts a premium on sourcing local ingredients from Lazio.

          6 Replies
          1. re: minchilli

            agree on proloco dol for farm to table, and add palatium and enoteca provinciale Roma, both more central.

            1. re: vinoroma

              Palatium looks great! Thanks for the rec! Couldn't find a website for the other one but they are walking distance. I might try a little from both one night if we do a big lunch that day. Would they both be ok to walk-in and sit at the bar?

              1. re: Traveling_teacher

                It is difficult to get a place as a walk in in both.

              2. re: vinoroma

                Actually, the official name is Enoteca Provincia Romana. (They've changed it several times I think, but that is the most recent 'official' name)


              3. re: minchilli

                Thanks Elizabeth! I was on your site a lot and loved it! I will check out Proloco DOL. Do you know how long it will take to get there?

                1. re: Traveling_teacher

                  Thank you!
                  The last time I went I took a taxi and I have to say it took us at least 20 minutes to get there. I'm sure there is public transportation as well, which I would recommend looking into, since the taxi was expensive!