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Apr 28, 2014 11:21 AM

Paris Sunday market

Hi all-I will be in Paris in mid-June for a meeting. I'm staying in an apartment near the Louvre. My plane gets in at 8 am on a Sunday and I can get in the apt that morning... my meeting starts on Tuesday and goes the rest of the week. So my question is... given my time constraints and my produce-procuring needs, what would be my best market option for Sunday? Thanks!!!

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  1. The market on rue Montmartre outside the Saint Eustache church is nearest you and is small but lively and authentic maraîcher. It has great veg and meats.
    The Bastille market, a bit further away, is famous for its overwhelm. You are somewhat pressed for time. I recommend you go to the one nearest you. Besides St Eustache is a hell of a good market.

    Remember: all Sunday markets are held in the morning.They start closing around 12:30, and area mostly closed by 1pm.

    Sunday morning you must shop for your produce needs for both Sunday and Monday, as all markets are closed Sunday afternoon and Monday.

    For your other needs like oil, sugar, salt, paper towels, toilet paper etc., the supermarkets are closed Sunday afternoon but reopen Monday. There are supermarkets all over town. You can ask your landlord re the nearest one, so you don't have long distance to lug the stuff.

    1. Thank you! I did really want to go to Bastille, but I don't think the timing will realistically work. I didn't know of the St. Eustache market.... I'll try and look up the details. Is that a twice-weekly market? Or perhaps one I could catch in the evening after work?

      3 Replies
      1. re: Missy

        I am pigging out on roast quail. Will answer later.

        1. re: Parigi

          um. Yum.
          here's my dinner from yesterday-black morels harvested by my two sons Sunday afternoon from the G. Richard Thompson Wildlife Management Area, Blue Ridge Mts, VA. and wild asparagus from the side of VA Rt. 7, Clarke County, VA.
          Morcella elata

          1. re: Missy

            Wa wa wah ! J'arrive !

            OK. The market street nearest you that is open every day (except Sunday afternoon and Monday) would be the very pretty and lively rue Montorgueil. When in doubt, go there.

            The nearest authentic maraîcher market near you would be the St Eustache market

            Below is a very informative on the market, but but but, stop !!! It gives the wrong hours. In Thursday afternoon, things start setting up around 3pm. Better to to after 4pm to be safe. They start closing around 7:30pm.
            Ditto re Sunday. As I explained earlier, the stalls start closing around 12:30. Thes hours apply to all the markets. Expect them to be closed between 1pm and 4pm on their opening days.


            Here is a list of all the markets of Paris and their hours. Remember the hours given are wrong.


            Have a great time and write back.

      2. I do so hope that I can make it in time. I arrive at 8 am on a direct flight, need to pass through passport control, then I guess take the RER to Chatelet (how long does that take, do you think), and then get to the apartment.... all of those things usually take longer than you think! I think it would be a good idea to ask the proprietor to leave me some milk and coffee at least for the next morning, to get me out the door!

        9 Replies
        1. re: Missy

          "I do so hope that I can make it in time"
          1. Do you have a FF level that gets you Acces No 1?
          2. Can you carry on and off your luggage?
          3. Can you spring for a 30 E cab rather than a 9.50 E RER ticket? It's Sunday and it'll zip in.
          I go back to the States a lot and take the RER or cabs depending on the days and traffic.

          1. re: Missy

            I'm guessing you'll be at your apartment by 11.

            Good thinking to ask ahead for milk and coffee.

            1. re: Missy

              Guest landed at CDG 8 AM, with luggage and cab at my place near Bastille at 9:40.
              Cab on Sunday with class 'C' fares will cost you closer to 60 than 30 even without tip.

              1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                I am with you DCM baggage, passport control and customs at CDG is pretty fast and I would say 2 hours into town in a Sunday is average and it can be faster. I also query €30 in a cab to the Louvre and agree €50+ is realistic (isn't JT up north on the way to CDG?). So RER is probably quickest but Chatolet isn't a great metro so whilst it's faster and cheaper it's probably a bit of a hassle.

                Not certain why the negative view on getting to the Bastille market in time, if the trip from the airport I'd smooth you should be there in plenty of time (keep the other markets as back up). There will also be shops open in the Marais on Sunday to get a few things, and isn't there a big Monoprix on rue du Rivoli for the other basics on Monday...?

                1. re: PhilD

                  My friends queued up for an hour trying to get RER tickets at Cdg. Especially after a long flight, I would take a cab. Streamline your first day. Why run around cutting it close when you want to go to the market and it is open only in the morning?

                  Many of my friends use Inter Shuttle car service and book a private car for 55 euro, all inclusive. The chauffer is there waiting for the traveler,, picking up no others.

                  Another thing: the first day the OP will have a lot of food shopping to do. The Bastille market is quite far from the Louvre when one is lugging things. And it is weird as hell for us locals to consider taking the metro to shop for food then lug it home on the metro. Streamline, make your life easy the first day. The St Eustache market is excellent, and the Montorgueil is an extension of it. I don't see how the OP will have less food options than going to the Bastille market.

                  1. re: Parigi

                    Very good point about the tickets and going hassle free - after a long flight I also don't like the hassle.

                    For markets I think it's a balance between experience and convenience. I would say the size and buzz of the Bastille market on a Sunday is worth doing followed by a stroll home through the Marais maybe stopping for a bite to eat and a few wines.

                    The OP is in town for less than a week attending a meeting that lasts for four days - I would expect there to be a few meals arranged or spontaneous for the attendees to socialise. So it may not make sense to do a weeks grocery shop before the OP works out how the week will pan out and so a shop for a few treats on Sunday is probably best.

                    1. re: Parigi

                      I'm with Parigi on this one. Convenience trumps all. And the combo of the Saint-Eustache marché and the rue Montorgueil shopping street is a winner. And Missy might even have time for a little relax and peoplewatching at one of the cafés on the rue Montorgueil while doing or after her shopping.

                      On dead-day Monday, she can stock up at supermarkets. There's a rather largish G20 on the rue du Louvre @ rue Berger and a Franprix on the rue Berger.

                      BTW, the very impressive Saint-Eustache church is occasionally used as a concert venue... free organ recitals every Sunday late afternoon... and other more elaborate offerings (for about 20 €) at other times... check out the schedule to see if anything appeals.

                    2. re: PhilD

                      "(isn't JT up north on the way to CDG?)."
                      Yes practically on the peripherique so my cab fare is quite a bit lower than downtown.

                  2. re: Missy

                    I would definitely avoid the RER in your situation. It is a long walk to get there and then you have to fuss with the machine and wait at each stop. And, you are tired and kind of messed up by an overseas "redeye" flight. I like to order a car to pick us up. The driver meets you when you exit customs and is ready to go. The bill is reserved and paid by CC ahead of time. You go curb to door in something that is clean and big enough for your legs. I used to go "cheap," but then our landlord sent her driver and, "Ooh! LA! LA!"

                  3. Oh, I did think the train would be faster.. No I can take a cab easily... and directly to the apartment. No luck with the luggage. Gotta check one bag. And I am a FF but I've never been "allowed" to get off the plane before the business class passengers! not sure that matters anyway when I have to grab my bags.

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: Missy

                      You are correct, checking a bag is a problem and nulls out Acces No 1.
                      Pack fewer items.