Porcellino [San Francisco]
Porcellino opened 6 days ago, slickly replacing the beloved Incanto with a more casual order at the counter kind of place. Chris Cosentino is still at the helm, very visible as we walked in, quickly cluing us in how things roll. At the end of the very long bar nearest the entrance is a cold case full of cured meats. To its left is a shelf stocked with salumi, olive oils and dried pastas for sale. At the other end is the ordering area where you are presented with a simple paper menu and adequate time to order.
The menu is online and focuses on a few pasta dishes, sandwiches, salads and appetizers. It is fairly wide ranging with every dish reflecting
legitimate Italian origins. We started with warm olives ( a huge serving) and grilled bread ( save the calories), followed by pasta carbonara ( a little bland but with nicely firm pasta and penne with pork and beef ragu topped with a fried duck egg ( a must). The latter dish was clearly superior, rich in its meatiness but not too heavy or overbearing.
The place has a great casual vibe, allowing for less planned drop ins. Today it was only about one third full, but this will change quickly as word spreads.