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A Long Overdue Report December 11-25th - Paris/Alsace

I can't believe it's already April and I still haven't posted this report! I followed this site on a daily basis before our trip. I owe you all for our wonderful meals ( especially JT

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  1. Thank you but I think you got cut off.

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    1. I can't believe I spent all that time and there is nothing there! I made the mistake of using my ipad. I will try again

        1. Ok. Let's try this again.

          My husband and I spent one week in Paris, then 4 days in Alsace. We ended the trip back in Paris for three days so we could do food shopping and purchase last minute Christmas gifts to take home. It was a wonderful food trip, thanks to all of you at Chowhound. I spent a lot of time at this site and others such as Paris by Mouth, John Talbott's Paris, etc.

          Here is a list of Paris restaurants loosely based on preference:
          Garance
          Le Saotico
          110 Taillevent
          Table d'Aki
          Spring
          Le Regalade St. Honore
          Terroir Parisien
          Le Casse Noix

          We went to Le Casse Noix on our first night in Paris. It was perfect for our jet lagged state. We rented an apartment in the 7th (Rue St. Dominique) so we were able walk to the restaurant. It was an unpretentious, warm, cozy bistro with very friendly staff. I don't recall what we ate, but remember it being well prepared. We had prix fixe with aperitifs, a bottle of wine and sparkling water, no coffee. The tab was 115EU for two.

          The next day we had reservations for lunch at Table d'Aki. So glad we were able to experience his talent, but not sure if I would return due to the expense. We can't seem to find the receipt, but know it was about 200EU for the two of us for lunch. I had a glass of champagne when we first arrived ( I have champagne every chance I get when in France:) and then we had half a bottle of Pouilly Fuisse with our meal. It is amazing that he is able to prepare and serve everything all by himself.

          Most days we had lunch out and ate dinner in. Usually grazing over things we picked up at various shops in the neighborhood (smoked salmon, pate, cheeses, carrot salad, beet salad, etc.) A perfect way to relax and unwind.

          The next day we climbed the tower of Notre Dame. The beauty of visiting in December is that the lines are minimal. I think we only waited about 15 minutes to enter the tower. We walked from Notre Dame to our lunch spot, Le Saotico (2nd). Thanks John Talbott for the recommendation! This was my husband's favorite Paris restaurant on our trip! We had a 1:00 reservation and the place was jam packed with office workers and locals out for lunch. They seated us by the window out of the way of the crowd-perfect! My husband had an amazing risotto with truffles and sanils for an entree. I had a smoked salmon tartare on a bed of greens. I think I had dorade for a plate. I think my husband had grilled tuna. Lunch with 2 glasses of wine each, sparkling water, no coffee came to 87EU. A bargain for the quality of the food. The staff was friendly and efficient. We will definetily be back on our upcoming September trip. We will be renting an apartment on Rue Tiquetone, around the corner from Rue Montorguiel.

          I am going to post this in batches, since my first attempt didn't go through. Next day: Cordon Bleu and Spring...

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          1. The next day, my husband went to an early morning class at the Cordon Bleu. It was obviously geared toward the novice. They made a a fois gras appetizer, roast pork and chocolate mousse. He said it was a wonderful experience seeing the institution itself, so much history. His takeaway was that the instructors were excellent, the morning demonstration was excellent, but the hands on experience in the afternoon was limited. They only recreated the pork dish. I spent the day going to Bon Marche and walking around my neighborhood. I also splurged and had my hair washed and blown dry.

            Thay evening we had reservations at Spring. They seated us downstairs in the "cave" and I'm so glad they did! It was very romantic and quiet, compared ot the craziness upstairs. We each had an aperitif, a bottle of wine (on the lower end of the price spectrum), sparkling water, no coffee and the tab was 240EU. Everything was so fresh and presentations were beautiful. I'm glad we had the opportuity to try such a "hot" restaurant, but probably won't return. There are too many new places to try.

            The next day we took the train to Reims to tour a champagne house. The only one open during this holiday period was Pommery. We walked about 10 minutes to La Table Anna for lunch befoe heading over to Pommery. I couldn't find a lot of options for a Sunday lunch when I was researching the trip. The staff was very friendly and attentive. Food was OK. Tab was 94EU.

            That evening, we decided to walk over to the no -reservations, Cafe Constant, a short walk from our apartment. They seated us upstairs. It was packed with tourists, which I had expected. I made the misake of wearing a sweater. It felt like 90 degrees up there! We both bourguignon. Can't remember the rest of the entrees or dessert but the tab was 99.50 with a bottle of wine and sparkling water. I take that back, my husband had sorbet for dessert and I had rice pudding.

            The next day we went to BHV, Galleries Lafeyette (L'emporium) and other shops in the area. We had lunch at one of the kiosk at L'Emporium that sells Iberian Ham, among others and various Spanish cheeses. We had a wonderful platter of hams and cheeses and a green salad. with two glasses of wine, the tab was 59EU. It's always fun to walk around and see all the beautiful displays of food. I love the hussle bussle of the holidays. I made a note of what I wanted to pick up when we returned after Alsace. A very enjoyable way to spend the afternoon!

            1. re: CMichaelis

              Thank you so much for sharing this informative report. Pay no attention to the barking. We appreciate your taking the time to report back.

          2. The original comment has been removed
            1. Thanks for reporting back. I think your research paid dividends; not a loser in the bunch and I await your 2nd installment with photos.