Brief Opnionated Boulangerie Report
Again this is my opinion, l like bread that if it hits your head you get a concussion. l have been back in Paris for @ a week.
l have found over time that the bread situation changes here very rapidly. Some places open and are awesome then they get larger in that they have many branches and they sometimes are great and sometimes just suck. Other new ones open and they rock in the beginning.
Here are some of the ones l have purchased from.
A major disappointment, since the franchise has been expanding and expanding the breads are cooked less and less so that now the Pain Voltaire or whatever that when cut used to cover your kitchen with crisp shards of blackened crust now just squish under the knife and interior are moist and textureless.
Their bread pudding-like pain au raisin is still perfect.Used to be my go-to
Their miche is now baby food, soft and almost has no discernible crust. Even when baked at home for 10-15 minutes the crust is still useless.
Pain d'Alex Boulangerie Berthollet-
From where l stay a real PITA to get to but so worth the trip. Bought three breads, a miche, a baguette traditional, and a batard. All were very different and all were perfect for me. Might be the fave bakery so far. Please don't change a thing.
Pains et Gourmandises-
not my style of bread, sort of whole grain stuff, crust dense but not chewy, like healthy bread in states. OTOH their walnut loaf small and heavy is wonderful.
Du Pains et Des Idees-
Still a perfectly awesome loaf of bread. Their pain d'ami has not changed in any way. Crust is like a castle wall and interior a little soft but still great texture. Only downside is the cost, at @ 10 euros/kg may be the most expensive bread in the city.
Le Pain au Grenier-
Varies greatly dependant on location.
/Ave d'Italie has changed to the bad completely. Staff very helpful but the three items l tried were a bite and trashed. Even changed their brilliant kouign amann, now very not brilliant.
/Gare de Nord-Always terrible and still is, no change.
/Fauberg-St Antoine-Bread OK, Kouign amann the same as the good ones
/Rue Abbesses-This is still the bomb, their kouign amann is perfect , their ficelle may be my fave bread in city, they carry the full line of La Cour De Orgeres confiture which is my take home brand and at better prices than Au bon Marche.
That is it for now, more later.
Thank you DLC. This is very helpful for my upcoming May trip. I liked Kayser very much but I suppose growing pains and all of that. Berthollet sounds like a place to go.
My apartment is on R. Portefoin on the 3rd near R. de Bretagne a new area to me. Any boulangeurs of note nearby?
Seconding the Grenier à Pain on Rue des Abbesses, et oui, the ficelle.
I have not been to the other Landemaine, but the one on my street - rue des Martyrs, are you reading, Kelly? - is still god-damn good. You will taste it when it is served at our Abri lunch.
All the bakers and pastry chefs that a friend and I interviewed for a reportage on breads and croissants agree with you and champion the well-baked bread. The Meilleure Baguette winner of last year - in the 14th, whose name I just forgot - even makes one special baguette that is deliberately slightly overbaked, and it is mighty popular. Another winner spilled the beans that the former president also preferred it that way.
I am reading. :o) The one type of bread I do find disappointing at Landemaine, even on rue des Martyrs, is anything that's "flavoured" (pain au noix, pain au chorizo, etc.). But very much enjoyed their baguette, pain au chocolat, couque Suisse--with a special mention for their tartelette aux pommes (off-topic, I know, but second only to Poilane's in my experience to date). You're one lucky hound, Parigi.
Great research - sorry about the misses - and thanks for sharing your opinions. Our bread tastes sound similar (and I'm a metro girl, too, ha ha.)
Glad to hear the Abbesses Le Grenier à Pain is still up there. It was one of our favorites when we stayed in that neighborhood a couple trips ago.
Inconsistency just makes me nuts (although I understand why and how it happens) when it comes to food.
But DCM how can this be - we can't name the best if they keep changing, how will we produce an accurate list - "The horror! The horror!"
Although seriously it's sad how great bakers can't seem to expand and keep the original quality up. Poilane is another example of a bread I loved but IMO seems to have lost its qualities as it's availability grew.
I live in Hong Kong and we have Kayser branches, it's far better than most (but IMO not as good as the bread in a Paris) but still benefits from a blast in the oven when I get it home. Still far better to have something rather than nothing.