Easter Weekend - comments appreciated
I have been scoping out people's recommendations for a good couple months running up to our trip to your city over the Easter Weekend (Friday to Monday).
We are two 30 years olds living in East London - after casual, fun places with good food and importantly, buzzy non-stuffy atmosphere. We are staying in an apartment in the 11th(or maybe 10th?) just off Rue Oberkampf but used to travelling on metro etc so distance not such a problem.
After getting over the disappointment of Chez L'ami Jean being shut (seriously, the main reason we booked this trip was to go - gutted...) our plans are looking something like:
Friday Dinner - Bones (booked)
Saturday Brunch/Lunch - Buvette (Rue Henry Monnier)
Saturday Dinner - the main dilema. I am weighing up Paul Bert / Richer / le BAT / Piere Sang Boyer / Terroir Parisien (Palais Brongiart) - a lot of options! Any to definitely go for/rule out?
Sunday Lunch - If warm, a picnic in Jardin de Lux with food from Marche Raspail or Mouffetard - any suggestions for which is better?
if not warm than Danes Les Landes
Sunday Dinner - Clamato
I then have a monday lunch spot free - any thing crying out to be tried?
Thanks in advance for all your help - Chowhound is always invaluable and I hope I can help some of you with advice in London at some point
"Saturday Dinner - the main dilema. I am weighing up Paul Bert / Richer / le BAT / Piere Sang Boyer / Terroir Parisien (Palais Brongiart) - a lot of options! Any to definitely go for/rule out?
You want "bussy non-stuffy atmosphere". Do you mean busy? Buzzy?
"Sunday Lunch - If warm, a picnic in Jardin de Lux with food from Marche Raspail or Mouffetard - any suggestions for which is better?"
The Raspail market has better food in general.
Before you leave, you can look up 14-day weather forecast for Paris.
On Sunday you could consider Baron Rouge wine bar for lunch and head to Dans Les Landes for Monday. It's a buzzy post market vibe at the bar and you can stand outside or squeeze inside. Good cheese and charcuterie as well as oysters plus lots of restaurants and food options in the market area.
I am not a big Luxenbourg Gardens picnic fan as most of the grass is fenced off and you can't sit on it.
Thanks all for your help on this.
I think for the Saturday night we will opt for Paul Bert as seems like the most appropriate substitute for L'ami Jean.
Does anyone have any recommendations for any good wine/cocktail bars near our dinner spots I.e. Bones / Paul Bert / Clamato?
Many thanks again
Before or after a meal on the rue Paul Bert, I usually stop off at either Café Le Pure on the rue Jean-Macé (and pure Paris it is and even survived a visit by Anthony Bourdain and his footsteps followers as well as occasionally being used as a film-making location) for a glass of wine or simple apéro or Les Funambules on the rue Faidherbe @ the lower end of the rue Paul Bert if in a cocktail mood.
Clamato is also in easy range of Le Pure and Les Funambules. But it also gives you a chance to hang out on the terrace of the very trendy Pause Café on the rue de Charonne @ rue Keller but it's such a great intersection for peoplewatching that I don't mind if Pause is too crowded and I have to go to any of the other several cafés here. Not bad cocktails at Pause but I usually stick to wine and simple apéros. Depending on mood, I also like Le Petit Baïona on the rue Charonne @ rue Charrière (i.e. 75 metres from Clamato)... but with a caveat: it's a Basque bar so can get boisterous especially during rugby and football seasons. Half a km from Clamato, the rue Keller is also turning into cocktail alley... my favourites are Café Moderne (but also a restaurant and doesn't open until 7pm) and Lone Palm (6pm to 2am). BTW, the rue Keller used to be full of hardcore S&M clubs and bars in the '80s & '90s, and then fast-food cheap-booze places for suburban teenagers in the last decade, and is now rapidly succumbing to the area's general colonization by the hip and trendy ... the cocktail cluster, the excellent restaurant Manger (and spank me for not touting it more on Chowhound), and the very enjoyable Argentine carnivore resto Volver.... oops, I'm stop straying off-topic.
Back to apéros. For Bones (which is a wine-bar), you can make it a one-stop visit for aperos and dinner if you can tolerate severe over-crowding in the bar area. If not, I'm a little at a loss for suggestions now that cocktail-fab The Pigs on the ave Ledru-Rollin has closed. When meeting friends who live in the quartier, we usually rendez-vous at La Renaissance on the rue Roquette... a neighbourhood institution with lots of habitués and a good selection of wine... its time-warp qualities appeal to me but it's just a café du quartier so not all that remarkable if you are looking for somewhere sophisticated and foodie-ish for your apéros. If absinthe appeals to you, La Fée Verte on the rue Roquette @ rue Basfroi can be quite a delight and also has the usual range of non-absinthe drinks ... and continuous hours day and night until 2am so no probs for an early evening apéro or late-night digestif.
re: John Talbott
Talbott le Vénérable.
Manger's new executive chef (from February) was Kobayashi's second at Kei and also trained at the Plaza Athénée so nothing to worry about. Well qualified to execute the "menu des chefs" (elaborated by Pierre Gagnaire, Yannick Alléno, David Toutain, my future ex-wife Amandine Chaignot, Christophe Michalak, Akrame Benallal, Michel Trama, etc etc) for their periodic fundraising events as well as to keep the cuisine humming at a pleasing pitch day-to-day. I was there a fortnight ago and it was very good indeed... no complaints from our table at all. Since it's a "solidaire" place with lots of stagiaires, there might be a few glitches here and there, especially on the service side but such "oups" are rare and the wait staff are usually exceptionally enthusiastic and very personable.
"I read somewhere the chef had moved on."
This morning's JDD reminded me that I'd read that Will (William) Pradeleix had moved from Manger to open a place called Will in the 12th soo that was what my memory was challenged by.
And to already know who your future ex-wife is, is remarkably clairvoyant.