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April in Paris

  • j
  • JRD Mar 18, 2014 08:03 AM

Will be in Paris with my 13-year-old son in April (five full days). We are both adventurous eaters, looking for a mix of classic (not so much fancy, though perhaps one night; son is a big fan of "Midnight In Paris," for what that's worth) and "local" (meaning not touristy but not Brooklyn--we get enough of that, we're from there). Ethnic variety is good. We are staying in Marais, will be hitting the usual spots (museums, etc.) so a bit off beaten path okay but not too much.

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  1. My favorite place in the Marias is L'as Du falafel 32-34 Rue des Rosiers. We do "take away" because the place is so crowded and their drinks are too expensive...none the less their falafels are worth the trip. And, right around the corner is Chez Marianne 2 Rue des Hospitalières Saint-Gervais...lots of tasty Mediterranean food. And, there is a GREAT gelato shop near the bridge before you walk from Ille St Louis to Notre Dame...long lines worth the wait. And, maybe your son would enjoy sailing a rented toy boat in the pool at Luxembourg Gardens. Enjoy your trip!

    1. If you want to include the restos featured on "Midnight in Paris" on your to-do list, you first have to take out a second mortgage for admittedly excellent meals at Le Meurice (300 to 700 € pp) and Le Grand Véfour (200 to 500 €) or resign from the foodie community if you eat at Polidor. For a good substitute for the film's market scene (at the Marché Paul Bert in the otherwise dull and grossly overpriced flea market at Saint-Ouen/ Clignancourt), try the Marché des Enfants Rouges and the rue de Bretagne in the 3rd where there is a cluster of French, Italian, Moroccan, Japanese mini-restos inside the market and some excellent eateries/ cafés in the immediate vicinity.

      For neighbourhood gems that are pure Paris rather than wannabe Brooklyn, Ober-Salé on the rue Oberkampf in the 11th (just a short walk from the Haut Marais) or Le Taxi Jaune on the rue Chapon in the 3rd.

      If the weather is good, the kid might also enjoy a Pink Flamingo pizza on the banks of the Canal Saint-Martin ... order from their pizzeria on the rue Bichat, get a pink balloon, and then wander down to the Canal to find a bench or something, and wait for the delivery guy to hone in on your pink balloon location.

      12 Replies
      1. re: Parnassien

        Parnassien as always is wonderfully informative; he should charge. But JRD, aside from "Midnight", local and not Brooklyn what other hints can you give us from prior threads or current wishes to guide us.
        PS For "Midnight" places search for Montmartre and pray for fog and Luc Besson.

        1. re: John Talbott

          John, I was wondering what to suggest for the Montmartre scene. The stairs featured run from rue Ramey to behind Sacré Coeur but I can't think of any resto in that specific area that has the right feel and quality. Any ideas ?

          If any ole Montmartre stairs will do, maybe the quite charming Chez Plumeau on the rue du Calvaire just down from the Espace Dali might work even if it is dangerously close to the place du Tertre tat ... but mercifully overlooked by the Butte's tourist swarms. It's my one and only safe retreat when I have to take visiting foreign friends to Sacré-Coeur/ place du Tertre.

          1. re: Parnassien

            "Any ideas?" - (for the scene)
            Almost any place up the hill I think gives one a sense of the hill, the crowds and what it must have been like even before I was born.
            Jeanne B.? hilly for sure
            Miroir? ditto
            6.2 L'Atelier Ramey, 23, rue Ramey in the 18th, 01.42.51.04.78, closed Sundays - I rather liked it.
            7.9 La Cantine de La Cigale, 124 Blvd de Rochechouart in the 18th (Metro: Pigalle), - Below the hill but a neat place where I think Montmartre exudes its charms.

            1. re: Parnassien

              "If any ole Montmartre stairs will do,"
              L'Eté en Pente Douce, an outdoors place serving quiche&salad, facing not one but several enchanting staircases, and near the APC outlet.
              Works only on good weather.

            2. re: John Talbott

              Thanks, John (& others). I would like him to get a feel for a Paris that may not exist so much anymore--mom and pop, simple, hearty food--don't want to be surrounded by tourists, at least not all the time. So it's a couple classic-feeling spots, some ethnic variety (our favorite NYC borough to eat in is Queens), and some places where locals go as opposed to where they think an American should go.

              1. re: JRD

                "mom and pop, simple, hearty food"
                Well, Mom & Pop are getting on but a place that springs to mind with a super young couple is Les Saisons, 52 rue Lamartine in the 9th, 01.48.78.15.18, closed Sundays and Mondays, and a place that has simple hearty food like Mom & Pop did but without pesky fellow Americans as well is old Chez Fred, 190 bis, Boulevard Pereire, in the 17th, 01.45.74.20.48, closed Sundays (Metro: Pereire or Porte-Maillot or Bus PC1 or 3).

            3. re: Parnassien

              I think my granddaughter would like the pizza thing! Thanks for the idea!!

              1. re: hychka

                Do you really want to waste a meal in France having pizza?

                1. re: John Talbott

                  No, but I think my granddaughter would go for the pink balloon.

                  1. re: John Talbott

                    Sometimes the overall experience makes the food irrelevant... pink balloons on the Canal Saint Martin is what will be remembered.

                    1. re: Parnassien

                      We had a naked man jumping from a bridge (repeatedly) last time we drank by the canal. Many sights, 28 good meals, lots of wonderful wine but that's all the girls talk about....!

                      1. re: PhilD

                        Mais évidemment !