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HKG for 6 days in April

morninglemon Mar 11, 2014 12:29 PM

It's time for my once-every-three-year trip to Hong Kong. Don't have much of an itinerary other than to stuff my face and see my family (and stuff their faces too). Any thoughts/suggestions on these places so far, and any other reccs?

New to my dining choices:
Tim Ho Wan, Sham Shui Po or North Point
Sing Kee Seafood, Sai Kung
Hong Zhou, Wan Chai
Hung's Delicacies, North Point
Ser Wong Fun (蛇王芬) or Se Wong Yee (蛇王二)

Revisits:
Australia Dairy Company
Yat Lok
新強記燒鵝火鍋海鮮酒家 in Tai Wai

Seeking reccs for:
Great roast goose w/ lai fun (think Yat Lok)
Any place with handmade noodles
Holes in the walls
Good indoor dai pai dongs (think the really good one inside North Point's food center on Java Road)

Many thanks!

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  1. Charles Yu RE: morninglemon Mar 12, 2014 06:43 PM

    Most, if not all good ' hole-in-the-wall ' places are usually well established and have a historic and iconic back ground. As such, if you are a 'psedo-regular' visitor of Hong Kong, you should have heard of or tried out some of the famous ones?!

    However, during your 3 years hiatus, there are a whole bunch of new and excellent 'more upscale' places that has sprung up. They include:
    - Above and Beyond, Hotel Icon, TST East
    - The Boss, Central
    - Guo Fu Lou, Wan Chai or TST
    - Seventh Son, Wan Chai
    - Jardin de Jade, Wan Chai
    - Zhejiang Heen, Wan Chai
    - Tin Lung Heen, ICC, Kowloon
    - Hong Kong Cuisine, Happy Valley
    ....to name a few.

    As for your trip to Tai Wai to try out 新強記燒鵝火鍋海鮮酒家 again. I would suggest giving that a pass and have a meal at 'Fung Lum' for their Sha Tin Roasted Pigeon and Fried Sea Prawns with peppered salt or 'Xin Dau Ji ' for their roasted suckling pig, seafood and other nostalgic Cantonese dishes ( XDJ's flag ship is in Jordan and a branch in CWB also ).

    Lastly, head over to Hung Hom's Whampoa Gourmet place 1st floor. There. you will find " Jor Lun Yau Lay' for some awesome Cantonese noodles ( won-ton, Beef Brisket, Penny Hot Sauce...etc ) and rice congees.

    Have fun!!

    2 Replies
    1. re: Charles Yu
      morninglemon RE: Charles Yu Mar 18, 2014 10:49 AM

      Thanks for the reccs. I have tried lots of hole-in-the-wall places during my years in HK, and I have to admit that because of their.. hole-iness, I often neglect to note their names, especially in English if they even have English names, to the point that I go to them as a muscle reflex. That retry list included only the ones I could remember the names of.
      Very familiar with Whampoa Gourmet, as my grandmother lived in Hung Hom and my aunt and uncle lived in Whampoa Gardens for several decades. I even remember when the "boat" was being built. Unfortunately, it's a bit far from where I'll be staying (TKO).

      1. re: morninglemon
        Charles Yu RE: morninglemon Mar 18, 2014 02:21 PM

        Have you tried 'Tso Choi Koon' in Jordan? ( corner of Jordan road and Nathan Road at Tak Hing Street ). A busy and slightly more up-scale hole-in-the-wall. They have very good Wok-hay stirred fry with focus on nostalgic and iconic Cantonese family dishes. Love their stirred fry pig's innards with ginger and scallions. The pig's liver is to die for!!

    2. K K RE: morninglemon Mar 19, 2014 10:56 AM

      I'm assuming you can read some Chinese...so...

      Consider spending a day trip (or two) to Yuen Long. It will require quite a bit of walking and self navigation, off the eaten path even for CH, but it is totally worth it. In the past 2 years this area has been a hotbed of neighborhood style eats for locals and food lovers on a journey to discover, since everybody knows about the tried and true.

      Here are some places you may want to check out over there (and use openrice.com to supplement your research)

      學記麵家 - this is a beef innards specialist noodle shop, very famous for 沙瓜 (which is one of the specific stomachs). Stewed till very very tender. Also very decent beef brisket, but you want to try the innards and stomach

      大榮華酒樓 - home to celebrity Chef Leung Mun To who revitalized Yuen Long village style cooking. If you have enough people in your party, try yum cha here. The signature lard with premium soy sauce over rice, is a poor man's luxury (and lethally delicious to your health).

      好到底麵家 - ignore the other listings on openrice, turns out those are retail only outposts for dry noodles and condiments. The only sit down restaurant is in YL, and well worth the trip. Their shrimp roe noodle I think tasted better than Wing Wah and the roe alone is better than Lau Sam Kee in Sham Shui Po. Not bamboo pole noodles, but if you consider yourself an egg noodle lover (won ton, shui gow, brisket, ja jeung meen) you owe it to yourself to try this place. Sadly I only had room for shrimp roe noodle, the other items are probably quite decent. The interior looks stuck in time, lots of character and atmosphere.

      華嫂冰室 - this is the premiere "ice house" (downscaled HK café) and is the talk of the town these days...especially for their pineapple bun egg and tomato sandwich and milk teas. Food bloggers and lovers make the long trek here...they have limited hours each day and the place is small. Very out of the way unfortunately but apparently well worth the visit. Some now prefer Wah So over Kam Wah which is overrun by tourists from China and Taiwan.

      天鴻燒鵝飯店 - this is the premiere roast goose and roasties deli of Yuen Long. Get a whole leg unchopped, over lai fun. Many say it is better and more consistent than Yat Lok

      嘉麗園 - another noodle house, but more Chiu Chow in nature that specializes in beef innards and parts...including the testicles and penis (where it is said it is stewed so soft that people think it is beef tendon). YL natives say you have not experienced YL if you don't eat here.

      If you like wife cakes, try the flagship location of 恆香老餅家 and buy one to try. Really good stuff. Eeerily similar to Taichung style "sun cakes".

      Consider also taking a side trip to 流浮山. If you go early enough the view of the waterfront is quite scenic (or go in the evening). If early enough you might see fishermen bringing catches off the boat to the docks and into the fish market. There are a few seafood restaurants and some will cook your purchases. Or try the famous 歡樂海鮮酒家 (Happy Seafood), red brick building on the roundabout...it has the most impressive seafood display tank and most of the contents are imported...and you will pay higher than normal prices, but the quality is really good. Make sure you try the local 9 striped prawns (native to the waters of Lau Fau Shan)....freakin incredible especially the juices in the head.

      Then there is a day trip you can take to Tai O (45 min bus ride after you get off the MTR station at Tung Chung)...lots of amazing street snacks there too, retro style/stuck in time, but insanely delicious. Plus you get to see a part of HK's past that has not changed for years. Pick up some shrimp paste or shrimp blocks, shrimp roe. I dare say the iced lemon tea drink I had, as well as egg puffs/eggettes, was in Tai O.

      1 Reply
      1. re: K K
        morninglemon RE: K K Apr 1, 2014 09:24 AM

        Wow, thanks KK.
        Yuen Long is definitely out of the way but I'll see if my family is game for the trek. I've only been to YL a handful of times, never for a foodie adventure though. The promise of excellent roast goose on lai fun is intoxicating though.
        Lau Fau Shan sounds similar to Sai Kung - is it better prices/quality?
        I remember going to Tai O more than a decade ago with my family. First thing we did was get shrimp paste.

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