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Restaurants on French Riviera and Provence

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  • gudi Mar 6, 2014 01:42 PM
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I will be on the French Riviera (staying in Cagnes sur Mer) and in Provence (staying near Arles) in late May/early June. I would love some restaurant ideas -- not over the top expensive, but great regional cuisine. Merci.

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  1. Le Haut de Cagnes has many good eats. Nice, La Turbie, Menton also. Ditto Provence. You did not say where in sprawling Provence you will be There is a lot of info that you can easily find by using the search function on this board. Take a look and then come back and tell us what you think. In short, help us help you.

    2 Replies
    1. re: Parigi

      In Provence we are staying in Villeneuve les Avignon. I will search on this board, as suggested. Thanks.

      1. re: gudi

        I'd recommend le Bistrot du Moulin in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, where we had a lovely meal last August. In Avignon (proper) there's Hiély-Lucullus, and a little further out - not far from the Route Nationale #7 - in Mollégès, le Mas du Capoun - both very enjoyable and not expensive. There are many good suggestions east/southeast of Villeneuve (as you will find by doing that search), but without knowing how far you'd be willing to travel for dinner, I hesitate to make other recommendations.

    2. If you have a car, the short trip inland from Cagnes sur Mer to Saint Paul de Vence is worthwhile for a lunch on the terrace at La Colombe D'Or (it should be warm enough for this when you're travelling). It's moderately expensive for the food served (well cooked regional food), but the experience is very enjoyable, the collection of art in the dining room is unique and the village is charming.

      1. Be sure to go to Le Bistrot de la Marine in Cros de Cagnes.

        1 Reply
        1. re: beaulieu

          Beaulieu. You were the one I was referring to in terms of respect, but think you got it wrong about Le Bistrot de la Marine. Subsequently, a friend who knows the famous owner of the place, told me us wasn't surprised because what happened to us happens quite often. He said the owner "had problems" on many days. Have no idea what that meant.

          Here is what I wrote here, in part, a few years ago.

          "We had high expectations for this fish bistro. Someone who writes here and who lives on the Cote d'Azur and someone we very much respect, said to definitely go. Glowing review.

          We must have missed something. In fact, we missed everything, because we didn't eat anything.

          A reservation for five. The scowling waiter (one of two in the entire restaurant) clearly did not want to be working there, seated us. No problem. We looked around and although the restaurant was only 3/4 full, only about 15% of the people seated had any food in front of them, including no bread and no drinks. Those that did seemed to have only salads, no fish. Odd.

          Fifteen minutes later, Madame comes over and hands us the menus. When we went on the web site, there is the mention of coquillages, huitres and crustaces. Those were some of the things we came for... this is a fish bistro, isn't it? Fish bistro, similar to our favorite, l'Ecailler du Bistrot in the 11th. Not here.

          A limited menu, mostly salads for a first course, several fish dishes for seconds. OK, we'll stay. Ten minutes later, can't get an aperitif, no bread, no nothing. And we weren't alone. Ten minutes more, 35 minutes after we were seated, we got up and left because it was clear that it was going to be a long, long evening, if we ever got anything to eat. We missed all the food and, of course, the "expresso." As I was looking back toward the restaurant, there were the two waiters, nonchalantly moving around, and Madame was nowhere to be seen."