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Feb 26, 2014 08:38 AM

L'Envie du Jour in the Batignolles:: An exciting "new" chef in a great old venue.

For a few weeks, an exciting new chef (well, new to Paris although he passed through several fine houses outside, for instance Pic) Sergio Dias Lino has been packing them in, in the old Bigarrade space and judging from my meal there today, I'll be going back until I can't get in. It's tilted towards fish (daurade cru, cod Grenobloise and lieu noir) but had a lovely faux filet and broccoli soup today as well as two tasty desserts. Not to over-hype it, but it has echoes of Spring, Septime and Pario. More at

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