Please review my restaurant choices - Beaune area
My husband and I are visiting Burgundy for the first time at the end of May. We are renting a little cottage near Beaune for a week. Below are the restaurants I have so far. We are looking mostly for small places with very good regional food more than michelin stars and molecular gastronomy. We aren't too worried about price. Are we missing any standouts? Any of these you wouldn't recommend? And any place in particular for Dijon? I can't seem to find much about restaurants there for lunch. Thanks so much!
La Gilladine (on Sunday)
Aupres du Clocher
Le Terroir - or - Le Montrachet
Les Moulins Bleus in Dijon?
Comptior des Tontons
Caveau des Arches
one of the restaurants at Hostellerie de Levernois
Was just there in early January, a bit too close to the Hols so many places were closed.... however, a couple of quick notes (more to follow).
Ma was closed but I love it. Chez Guy is very consistent and good. Agree with Laidback on La Cabotte (also closed this time round) but disagree on Tontons... first visit and for me the food (and wine) were exceptional. Am dying to try La Ruchotte but been closed the 4 times I've been nearby... I'll second Parigi as well on one per day. Thoroughly enjoyed Le Goret: couldn't eat for 24 hours, and I'm about the size of the chef...
I was there last October. Just shoot me. I don't remember much of my tasting menu, only that my frog legs were sort of dry.
I had fully expected to like it more than Loiseau, but noooo, Loiseau was the clear winner betwen the two.
Everything was somewhat eclipsed by Ferme de la Ruchotte.
We also rented a stone cottage in the vineyards between Beaune and Nuits St George about 2 years ago and enjoyed many of the places on your list. I would add La Cabotte in N.S.G. which we tried about 3 times in our 2 weeks and possibly eliminate Tontons in Beaune. It was not bad, just underwhelming compared to Ma Cuisine, La Chambolle, La Cabotte and others.
We never made it to Grilladine but Le Montrachet and Hostellerie de Levernois are fine dining choices, well suited for a leisurely Sunday meal.
For Dijon, we really liked So in rue Amiral Roussin just off the main square and DZ'Envies on rue Odebert facing the market in October 2013.
The latter is a casual restaurant with good-value menus of much greater quality and sophistication than what one might expect given the informality, including a cute 'I love Dijon' menu that looked like an updated take on the Burgundian classics. Also a thoughtful selection of wine by the glass. So is a small room with a Japanese chef-owner working in a light-handed contemporary bistro format, which we've really like when in Paris and which seems very popular with Dijon locals too (restaurant was full the first 2 evenings we tried to go).
There are also a lot of casual bistros on rue Godrans near the market, all bustling at lunch time. If you are interested in cheese, there is a Comte specialist in the area as well, excellent wares aged on the premises, much better prices then I've encountered elsewhere, nice folks - I think rue Odebert but headed away from the market, recognizable from the 'chalet' style wooden panelling inside and outside the shop. And if you are still around in the evening, Chez Bruno in the antique district is the wine-bar of my dreams with an urbane crowd and a generous and gregarious owner behind the counter.
We generally found much more of gastronomic interest in Dijon than Beaune, which seemed overly-manicured and oriented towards visitors.
Is the train station close to the market? We will be taking the train from Paris to Dijon and picking up a car. Will either be there about an hour before lunch or during lunch.
If not, can you recommend something good close to the train station? Nothing too heavy as we are leaving Dijon heading to Levernois. Having dinner that night or the next night at Hostellerie de Levernois. Thanks for any info.
"Is the train station close to the market?"
15 minute walk with no luggage.
You did not give your train time. You can easily google market opening time.
"We will be taking the train from Paris to Dijon and picking up a car. Will either be there about an hour before lunch or during lunch."
This is one of the most mystifying questoins on this board. Will what be there about an hour before lunch or during lunch? Car ? Market ? Train station ? Some are permanent structures. Others are dependent on your rental contract.
"If not, can you recommend something good close to the train station? Nothing too heavy"
What time are you arriving? May we assume you are arriving around meal time ? And not on Sunday or Monday when most places are close ? Please give us more info to help us help you.
Sorry for the confusion. Arrival time depends on how early we are able to arise the morning of departure from Paris.
As I understand the train station schedule, they are closed for lunch from 12:15-2pm. If we leave Paris on the early train, we arrive in Dijon around 11am. If we take the next train, we arrived at 12:12 which means we wouldn't be able to rent a car until the office reopens at 2pm.
This was the source of my confusing sentence. If we arrive around 11am, we could rent the car and then have lunch before driving to Levernois. But, if we take the next train that arrives at 12:12, we would need to have lunch and then rent a car.
We really enjoyed the wine bar Part des Anges in Beaune Centre. You can enjoy a whole meal there, or just a light bite. And the wines by the glass are outstanding. Another great place for a light bite is the pizzeria next door to Ma Cuisine. They also have wonderful Bourgognes by the glass.
You should also be aware there are a million stairs down to the dining room at Caveau des Arches -- in case anyone in your party has knee issues.
Many good names. I don't know them all. Especially like Ptit Paradis, and of course Ma Cuisine and Auprès du Clocher.
It is an area with great eats. Of course you are missing out some outstanding places, but with just one week, when will you find time and stomach space to have more meals? Already your list is too full for just one week. Burgundy cuisine tends toward the rich. Badly paced meals and overeating are a discount of pleasure, not its accumulation. I would not have more than one major meal per day. Am speaking from experience.
When I was invited on an expense-paid star-studded week in the same area near Beaune. We went all out, including 6 stars in 25 hours. Even at a pace of one meal a day, there were days when we were moaning and not out of pleasure.
And Mangeur's pick, La Ruchotte, is outstanding among outstanders. But I hear the excellent farm-to-table ferme-auberge is taking 2014 off. Do check its website.
Good list. I would add a favorite, Auberge du Vieux Vigneron in Corpeau. Authentic food, fantastic cellar, frequented by locals, oozes soul.
I'd also suggest you try to get in for lunch at
La Ruchotte, a heritage poultry and animal farm west of Beaune. A singular experience. laruchotte.blogspot.com/