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Feb 13, 2014 10:43 PM

The pizza shop (24th St., Mission) [San Francisco]

Decent NY style pizza finally hits the mission. Well, technically NJ according to this article,

There were a few pre-made pizzas with a combination of toppings, and none looked so overloaded that it would compromise the crust. Crusts ranged from very blonde to light brown, presumably to prevent slices from getting burnt upon reheating. I got the $3 cheese slice to go.

The crust survived re-heating better than Gioia's slices do. The slice felt a bit rigid when I folded it in half, but the crunch was perfect, shattering right at the bite with no flaking elsewhere. The top part of the crust had a good elasticity too, which alone makes it much better than what I've had at Rustic on 24th @ Mission. The one fault was the outer rim, which didn't have enough flavor. But that's forgivable--- the cheese and sauce were delicious and had the right taste--- no extra condiments were needed.

The slice didn't strike me as oily, but there was a good amount of drippage, pictured below, on the plate. I'll take that as a good sign and note that it's still less oil than you'd get from the Cheeseboard.

Very impressive for a place that's been open less than a week, and better in every respect except maybe gross unladen weight to the other NY-style competitor in the Mission, Arinell's.

Not sure what their hours will be, but someone with dough slinging skills was making a whole pie just before 10pm.

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  1. This place is totally legit. The cheese slice is perfect.

    1. I read this late last night and then saw the picture and got really hungry. Need to try this place!

      1. Dissing Arinell just shows you don't know NYC pizza.
        But if this pizza is truly good, theres definitely room for more good slice places in this city where you need to have money to burn or own the real estate to be able to sell something so cheap. I'll have to reserve judgement until I try it since people are always raving about pizza that doesn't fit the bill (much like BBQ).

        2 Replies
        1. re: sfchris

          It may very well match your prototype for the ideal NYC pizza. You should try it out.

          Especially for a place that's been open less than a week, they hit the key points for me. It doesn't perfectly match my idealized slice, but enough that I stand behind my recommendation. The Pizza Shop would not be out of place in NY, but as per personal preference: the slices could be larger and allow for a touch more bubbling on the outer rim. They could also use a bit more charring. Not sure what it signifies, but the drippage didn't look orange enough. I didn't look at any mushroom slices, but I'd hope they're marinated rather than fresh.

          Aside from the squareness, which I do at home because I'm lousy at shaping dough, I have no beef with Arinelli's authenticity. Just like SF has places with great burritos and ones better suited to plugging up potholes, NY has good and bad pizza in the local style, and in a style difficult to find outside the northeast.

          I would eat at cheap and greasy places like Arinell's as a teenager on Long Island. Just like the superior pizzerias my parents took me to, they'd have the requisite thin and dark crust, whole-milk low moisture mozzarella, not too sweet sauce, and oregano in the sauce and/or on each table. But these lower-tier places would often have overcooked and mealy cheese and a dry crust. Some of the worst slices would snap like matzoh when you folded them, and have no elasticity to hold the molten cheese and orange oil in place. This latter experience has happened to me more than once at Arinells.

          1. re: hyperbowler

            Had a cheese and a pepperoni/mushroom slice yesterday.

            The mushrooms are not marinated, but are sliced paper-thin. Likewise the pepperoni, and toppings in general are sparse.

            Drippings seemed plenty orange to me, and the slices survive folding without cracking, but barely.

            Great sauce, flavorful cheese. Wow. I'm no NY pizza expert -- last slice I had in Manhattan was a good 15 years ago -- but this is simply yummy stuff and more satisfying than Arinell.

            My house sits about equidistant between Pizza Shop and Pizzahacker. LIfe is suddenly very sweet!

        2. I went to the Pizza Shop tonight with tempered expectations. It exceeded them. When I walked in, I assume it was the owners hanging out and chatting (I was in pretty late on a Tuesday night, around 9pm). Immediately their attention was mine when I walked through the door. I didn't see cheese in their offering, but upon asking they had a whole cheese pie waiting in the wings. They were super friendly about getting my slices ready while I hit the head.

          My slices looked about what I expected, twice baked thin new york slices. They were decent size, but perfectly heated. The sauce and cheese were perfect for each other, neither overwhelming the other, but both very contributing to the overall slice. The crust was pretty typical for a twice baked pizza, maybe a bit less charred than the slices I have bought at gioia as hyperbowler mentioned. The cheese/sauce balance made the slice though.

          If the owners keep the attention to detail this is a pretty hard pizza slice to beat. Every other east coast style slice place I have been I feel that the attention to detail is lacking, either an underwarmed slice or an overdone one. The slices I got here were perfect. I would recommend it to anyone if the same attention to detail is paid for all slices. I would like to go back and try some of their other offerings, they all looked pretty tasty. I hope this place gains traction.

          1. At my second visit, this time during lunchtime, I had another excellent slice. It was fresh enough that it did not need to be reheated and the crust, especially around the rim, had a more developed flavor than it did last time.

            The owner said he is capable of making a lot more pizzas that he currently is, so don't be shy about getting a slice. The hours are 11 AM through 9:30 PM, when he makes the last pies to order.

            I'm not sure what else I would put on this but The pizza shop, in combination with wise son's deli a few blocks away, could form the foundation of a New York food crawl.

            2 Replies
            1. re: hyperbowler

              I was there for lunch today myself, and yes, this is excellent NY style pizza. The crust could have been cooked a little longer, but the sauce/cheese/crust balance was exactly right.

              We might have been there at the same time today--I had cheese slices fresh from baking.

              1. re: ernie in berkeley

                Yeah, I agree the crust could've been cooked a little bit longer. It didn't have as much crunch as my last slice, but I chalked that up to slightly under cooking to allow for reheating later. Someone please order an entire pie!

                Here are two pictures. Let me know if you see yourself in the background, Ernie :-)