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Bistro Jeanty, French Laundry, Atelier Crenn, Manresa trip

w
willyum Feb 12, 2014 10:59 PM

Some brief impressions of the restaurants we dined at on a foodie trip to the Bay Area last weekend.

BISTRO JEANTY in Yountville - enjoyed the excellent creamy tomato soup and the pork shoulder off the menu, plus rack of lamb off the daily specials list. My first time trying pig's feet, which was a bit too gelatinous for my tastes. I ate one but couldn't finish off the other two.

Very large portions (three lamb chops, enough pork for four tasting menu sized plates, three big cubes of pig's feet, huge salad). Fair wine prices and a decent selection. We had a half-bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir that paired nicely with the pork and lamb.

Even on a rainy Wednesday in February the place was lively, maybe more than half full. This was our first visit and we enjoyed the food and atmosphere. We'll no doubt return here. Just beware of the portion size.

FRENCH LAUNDRY - two friends, a doctor-doctor couple, made the reservation for a four top (much easier to get than a two top) and they flew out Thursday to join us. This was everyone's second visit to FL.

My wife had the vegetarian menu since she was recovering from all the food at BJ the night prior and she liked that menu very much, perhas a bit more than the rest of us liked the standard menu.

We all agreed the best plate was the beef dish, a fine slice of beef grilled very well, with a rich sauce. The rest of the savories were all OK but generally the tastes were a bit bland for our jaded palates, with a couple of vegetable exceptions. There were no 'bad' dishes, just not enough exceptional ones.

We upgraded a couple of dishes and this didn't work out as well as hoped. Two of us paid $75 for Royal Ossetra Caviar with sea urchin, but the roe was small and the doctors (who had both versions) said they actually preferred the white sturgeon caviar that came with the standard 'Oysters and Pearls' dish.

Mr. Doc also had a black truffle risotto dish for an extra $100. The truffles were really good, I think the best blacks I've ever had, but the risotto was just mediocre. In November we had a fantastic risotto with white truffles at Alinea that has redefined 'risotto' for us and this was simply not nearly as good.

Overall we enjoyed the meal and the dining experience but not as much as we had hoped. I've been to Per Se twice and it seems the flavors are a bit more aggressive there even with very similar menus, and there are several other restaurants that are easier to book which have food more to our liking. This was probably our last trip to French Laundry for a while.

ATELIER CRENN - the original plan was to stay in Napa and also dine at Meadowood but after getting the Laundry reservation we found out that MW was closed that week. So my wife and I decided to try two other restaurants to the south.

On a trip to Barcelona last October we met a foodie couple from SF who said "If you like this restaurant (Sant Pau) you'll probably like Crenn", so off of that (and some diligent parsing of various reviews, from Andy Hayler to OpenTable) we booked Crenn Friday night. Our doctor friends decided to stay in Napa but drive down for the meal, while we booked a really poor hotel about a block from Crenn so we could walk (probably a dumb idea ... next time I'll stay in a better hotel and take a cab).

Anyway, despite heavy rains our friends made the drive and the four of us dined at Crenn. And had a great time.

Of the 17 menu items there were only a couple that didn't quite rock, like a soup of grains (one doc felt there was too much of it) or a reconstituted carrot covered with candied orange, which I actually liked but the others felt was a bit too sweet. A lot of the dishes were very clever, with high quality products but with slight molecular twists.

Our consensus was that the food was certainly more interesting than at FL and perhaps a bit more savory. This restaurant is very different from FL in style and ambiance (there is no dress code and the interior is a bit modest) and I can see how many would prefer the formality of FL for 'fine-dining', but we would probably return here before going to FL again.

I had the wine pairing and I thought it was well done, with plenty of good matches on hard-to-match dishes, and even a bit of whimsy in a beer pairing. The wine list is short but had relatively small markups on some pretty good wines. And the corkage fee is just $45 if you bring your own, versus a cool $150 at French Laundry.

MANRESA - the missus and I uprooted Saturday and drove to Los Gatos, upgraded to a suite in a luxury hotel (which cost the same as our tiny room at the 1950's motor inn in SF :). This was less than a mile from the restaurant. We walked over just to loosen up and on the way passed two car dealerships - Bentley and Lamborghini ... uh, OK, we are not on Filmore Street anymore. Our friends decided not to drive again and stayed in Napa, where I think they had 5" of rain.

We had a great time at Manresa. The restaurant is pretty classy inside and the staff was very polished. The food is a bit less experimental than at Crenn, but very well executed, with subtle tastes for the most part.

My wife insists that I mention the bread ... she is celiac so can't eat wheat but they served her several kinds of rice and/or potato flour bread that she says was superb, surely the best she had on this trip. My standard bread included a brioche, an onion bread and a 'levain' or sourdough ... also the best bread served this trip. And I passed on at least three other types.

The highlight of the meal -- of the entire trip -- was an extremely well-executed A5 wagyu beef from Japan (the boycott is over ... no more Snake River farms 'American wagyu' ... yeah!). I think I've had maybe 15 wagyu dishes the past 3 years and this was one of the two best, by a wide margin over whatever is # 3. I asked for seconds but the server just smiled.

A second highlight was the 'tidal pool' dish, with sea bream and a broth but starring the sweetest scallop I've ever tasted. Basically the least interesting dish was very good and the best ones were exceptional.

I think I would give the food here an edge over the other two fine-dining restaurants and to be honest I think Manresa deserves that elusive Michelin third star, based on this meal (I think I'd need to dine there a couple more times to be sure, but this was better than about half the 13 Michelin 3*'s we've visited).

I should also mention the wines ... I had the enhanced pairing, which was a bit more expensive than the Crenn pairing, with fewer wines. I didn't quite 'get' one pairing, a Brut Rosé with roe deer -- I expected a more earthy wine for the earthy meat -- but the others were really good matches, highlighted by four French wines and ending with a 30 year Tawny Port. The red Burgundy paired with the wagyu was especially noteworthy.

Overall we enjoyed this trip very much. The Bay Area is lucky to have so many good restaurants with such varying styles. We are already plotting a return in the fall, perhaps for Meadowood, Saison or Crenn, and Manresa.

  1. CarrieWas218 Feb 13, 2014 10:15 AM

    I love reading your posts, Willyum!

    I've been to FL three times and Crenn two times and Manresa three times. Of all, my meals at AC have been far more memorable although I agree with your wife that I think the vegetarian option at FL is more interesting. I've given up on Manresa, for a variety of reasons.

    I would love your input on Spain as I'm honeymooning there in May (Madrid and Barcelona - can't quite get to the coast, I'm afraid). I'll be starting a thread over in Spain shortly and hope you will chime in!

    1 Reply
    1. re: CarrieWas218
      w
      willyum Feb 13, 2014 12:28 PM

      Hi Carrie, congratulations on the upcoming honeymoon. We'll be there in May as well, a couple days in Barcelona and a week in Bilbao and SS.

      On the Spanish board the poster PBSF is the go-to guy. It seems he has dined at several hundred restaurants in and around Barcelona and he gives very good advice.

      As for me, we only dined at two places in BCN so I don't really know much but one M-3*, Sant Pau, might be a good fit for you since you liked Crenn so much. There are several similarities -- female chef, delicate food. The chef is very friendly (like Dominique) and the service was excellent. We actually heard about Crenn from other dinners at Sant Pau.

      For a honeymoon I think it's also a fun dining experience for lunch since you take a commuter train an hour north of BCN by the beach and the restaurant looks out over the Mediterranean, with a nice garden where you finish the meal with petite-fours and coffee.

      You can get an idea of it from Andy Hayler's write-up: http://www.andyhayler.com/restaurant/sant-pau ...

      We will probably try Abac in BCN this trip if we do a 'big' meal: http://www.andyhayler.com/restaurant/...

    2. eatzalot Feb 13, 2014 10:26 AM

      Thanks for the detailed report, willyum.

      "[walking we] passed two car dealerships - Bentley and Lamborghini ... uh, OK, we are not on Filmore Street anymore."

      As a historical note, neither were you in what most people long thought of as Los Gatos anymore, either. Through about the 1980s, it retained some of the town's old off-beaten-track, artist-and-surfer enclave look. But that particular corner of the Bay Area, with its sprawling hill lots and immediate adjacency to silicon valley, gradually became the preferred residence of successful silicon-valley people (the ones who work there daily, in contrast to smaller pop'n of VCs who live in Woodside or thereabouts, well up the peninsula).

      Just thinking out loud here (I don't know your particular foodie-travel habits and tastes of course, nor your whole itinerary) but in my own experiences, even when aiming for renowned restaurants, I've found it worthwhile to also seek out far more modest dining, as frequented by the local people. Among other things, this can mitigate palate fatigue or digestion overload (the sorts of dinners that get Michelin stars aren't, after all, what most bodies are accustomed to consuming regularly). In some places, like New Orleans and Hong Kong, it led to learning much, much more about the regions' cuisine strengths than what the high-end places would have indicated. And some very good eating, besides.

      There has developed a school of gastro-tourism (and I don't see this style at all in your posting, by the way -- among other indicators, you discussed your plans very thoughtfully in advance with CH regulars on this board) that uncritically accepts ratings like Michelin as somehow omniscient or ultimate quality measures -- just as it does some wine publications' numerical "scores" -- and proceeds to collect experiences of both, like trophies. (I recall even one person who avowedly approached both of those subjects that way, and started a whole discussion website last decade where he could sound off about them.)

      1. Melanie Wong Feb 13, 2014 12:43 PM

        Here's Carrie's inquiry on the Spain/Portugal board if you'd care to copy&paste to repost your recs in the correct place.
        http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/964968

        1. m
          ML8000 Feb 13, 2014 12:57 PM

          Thanks for the report. Haven't been to Manresa in a long time but it's still my favorite high end place. Really like the combo of "left field" thinking and great execution. The "tidal pool" is a good example, great execution and yet surprising and familiar.

          1. t
            tjinsf Feb 13, 2014 01:54 PM

            Great write up. They reflect my experiences at those places over the last year. Sant Pau is a good comparison to Creen. Although I think the more casual style of Creen is a plus rather than a detriment.

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