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Jan 31, 2014 06:50 AM

David's 388 [SoPo]: neighborhood menu and prices, sophisticated tastes

Haven't been to this part of David Turin's well-regarded restaurant group for a while, and were very pleased with our experience this week. Menu seems standard, but everything three of us ate came with an unexpected or subtle nuance that raised the dishes up. Crispy pot stickers had nice bits of dried apricot in the sauce, goat cheese fritters were light as a feather, grilled Caesar with white anchovies quite good (although the dressing needs a lift]. Entrees the kind of thing you'd expect, but again, some different dimensions. My prize was a pork chop "rib eye" [bone off] served with fingerling potatoes that had a hint of smoked paprika. Scallops were perfectly cooked, on an unusual bed of lightly spice squash and green beans for crunch. Mushroom tagliatelle was earthy and not overly sauced. Desserts included a new item, beignet with graham cracker dust and caramel (yum!) and a house standard, chocolate pecan tartlet that everyone loved. Services is warm and attentive, wines very fairly priced. All in all, well worth the five-minute detour over the bridge from the Portland food scene.

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