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Jan 25, 2014 09:55 AM

PVD guest chef dinners

Anyone going to the David posey/blackbird dinner at birch? Or the Sean gray/momofuku ko dinner at north?

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  1. I could only justify the expense of one, so I opted for the Sean Gray/North collab. I hope it'll be interesting! The David Posey event will probably be amazing though.

    1. I went to the North/Sean Gray dinner last night. It was interesting but, to my relief, I found I actually prefer the regular offerings at North overall. The evening seemed to run very smoothly. A ticket got each diner four plates. Dinner was served in five courses, with two options in each course except dessert (which was included.) First course was almost-raw scallop or shredded skate wing, second course was roasted carrots or venison tartare, third course was grilled squid or duck meatballs, fourth course was maitake mushrooms or lobster, and dessert was ice cream and a chocolate meringue. The meal was rounded out with peanut butter cookies (a preview of some of the offerings at the new North Bakery, perhaps.)

      As expected, the meal was enjoyable overall. My partner and I both had tickets, so we ended up sampling every dish. The meal started with a small bowl of chicharones and a (cheese?) straw stuffed with pimento--a tasty opening. We both agreed that there were a few hits in the meal proper, particularly the grilled squid, which was served in a spicy vivid green shishito pepper broth along with fragments of crispy rice cakes. The maitake mushrooms with vinegary pickled shitakes, paper-thin sliced chestnuts, and buttermilk puree was also phenomenal. We agreed that the venison tartare, served with a lightly poached quail egg, was one of the best tartars we've ever tasted. The duck meatballs, while definitely tasty, didn't wow us, and the lobster was somewhat overwhelmed by the rich stock it was served in. The dessert was undeniably tasty, if a bit random. The meringue was light and airy, as it should be. The ice cream was really exceptional, however, marrying a fruity tang (persimmon? pineapple?) with the umami goodness of miso. A sprinkling of flaked salt on top really brought out the contrast.

      All in all, I'm glad I had a chance to check it out. I'd love to see a few of these items put into regular rotation at North (especially that squid!!) But I'd still take the standard fare at North over most of these dishes any day of the week.

      Did anyone else end up going? What did you think? Anyone have tickets to the David Posey dinner at Birch in March? That one's a bit rich for my blood, I'm afraid, but I'm very curious to hear how it goes.