Restaurant Guy Savoy
- LVI Mar 13, 2006 12:43 PM
Rumor circulating about a mid May opening for Restaurant Guy Savoy. Anybody hear anything?
I contacted Caesars Palace, and got this response on January 23:
"I am sorry to say that Guy Savoy will not be open in April. We have a set a target date for Mid-May early June for the room to be up and running.
Timothy J. Moriarty
Food & Beverage Manager
Caesars Palace Las Vegas"
My Dad and I decided to go to Vegas for a couple of nights and he charged me with the task of deciding which restaurants we were eating at. One of my choices was Joel Robuchon at the Mansion in the MGM Grand. However, we walked by after our meal at Craftsteak to check out the menu and nothing jumped out to us. My father suggested Guy Savoy’s new restaurant and so we canceled JR and got a reservation at Guy Savoy for the next night. I had eaten at Guy Savoy's restaurant Paris and it remains one of my favorites in the world.
When we walked in, Guy’s son greeted us. He is running the Las Vegas location with his father’s guidance of course. He is doing quite a good job. The restaurant is completely contemporary and chic. No old-world French decor to be found here. Nothing wrong with that just a nice change of pace since my last meal of this kind was at Ducasse. The service was impeccable from the beginning. They brought a stool for my purse, which I just, adored. The champagne cart was brought over and I chose Billecart-Salmon Rose. One of my favorite champagnes. We were presented with a toasted foie gras sandwich on a metal skewer, which was delightful. After much coaxing, my father agreed to the Menu Prestige...their 10 course tasting menu. My father was presented the wine list, which was literally an encyclopedia-sized book with its own table. They have a 12,000-bottle cave so I guess it makes sense. That book was intimidating...I even saw my Dad (who has a 16,000 bottle cellar and knows a lot about wine) look a bit bewildered. The bread sommelier...yes bread sommelier followed with the first of our bread pairings. Hilarious. I know you are curious how the meal was so I will go through each course and give you my opinion. We unfortunately did not take any pictures because I did not want to disturb the subdued elegance that the restaurant tries so hard to maintain. I hope my descriptions are sufficient.
Course one: Oysters in Ice gelee.
Simple oyster served on a gelee. The real delight was a surprise slice of crisp black truffle under the dish holding the oyster. I love how his sense of humor comes out in his food.
Course two: Peas all round.
Quite a delicious approach to a simple yet perfect ingredient. He started with a layer of pureed peas mixed with a gelatin to help set the base. He then topped with twice-shelled peas and micro-pea shoots. Then topped it with a poached egg. Delicious. I am definitely going to be making this in my kitchen.
Course three (pictured on the bottom link): Crispy sea bass with delicate spices.
This was great. They had taken the scales and fried them to a crisp before topping the fish with them. The fish was buttery and served over some leeks with buttery foam. Seems simple but it was prepared so perfectly it stood out as a favorite.
Course four: Roasted foie gras and red cabbage nage, savoy cabbage, horseradish and mustards.
These are two flavors I would have never thought of together but oh my.... the earthiness of the cabbage was perfect with the foie gras. One of my top 3 dishes of the night.
Course five: Spinach and mushroom gratin.
Another simple but amazing dish. This is one of the first dishes to make me moan in quite some time. My Dad loved it as well. It was a simple cascade of mushrooms in buttery and nutty mushroom foam with spinach. I do not what made it so good. I just loved every bite.
Course six (pictured on the bottom link): artichoke and black truffle soup, toasted mushroom brioche with black truffle butter.
This was a miss. The soup tasted like nothing. The slices of black truffle and pecorino were nice. However, the soup needed the cream they had chose to admit and much more salt. The brioche was so good though. Heaven.
Course seven (pictured on the bottom link): crispy sweetbreads, petit potatoes and black truffle sandwiches.
He hit it out of the park with this one. Perfect sweetbreads accompanied by sandwiches of crisp slices of small potatoes and slices of black truffle. There was also an amazing turnip mixture in the center to offset the richness of the sweetbreads.
Course eight: selection of cheeses
The selection was just overwhelming. I had some delicious goats and blues. I do not remember what they were though.
Course nine: avocado and pineapple--creamy avocado mousse, pineapple sorbet on top of diced pineapple.
Oh my god. Avocado Mousse with pineapple? Pinch me. Sweet, tart and tangy. I have to replicate that at home.
Course ten: chocolate fondant, crunchy praline and chicory cream.
Nice dessert. Nothing awe-inspiring but well prepared and tasty.
Course eleven: The candy cart
Macarons, rose rice pudding, sugar spirals on sticks...I could barely eat another bite but I found a way to taste these delicacies.
We then retired out onto their open-air patio for after-dinner drinks and for my father, the cigar menu. My father kept repeating how civilized the whole experience was and I agreed. We finished our remaining bits of drink and headed out the door with a box of chocolates in hand. Smiles on our faces...of course.
For photos: http://www.guysavoy.com/en/intro.htm
I went for the opening. With our group was a chef by the name of Jean Louis ( www.restaurantjeanlouis.com/ )who was Guy's right hand man in Paris before opening his outpost in Greenwich, CT some 20+ years ago. After an absolutely wonderful tour of the kitchen, chat with Mr. Sayoy and superlative dinner, our dinner including wine, tip and tax came to roughly $500pp (I think it was $485 +/-). I would say that is a good benchmark for what you would expect to spend for the grand tasting menu with a full compliment of wine. And prepare yourself for the long haul. This is not your typical Las Vegas restaurant (for that matter, US) and the philosophy is to give you the table for the night and be pampered by the service for the next 3-4 hours, which you will be.
re: The Blissful Glutton
Interesting post - thanks. The SO and I went last week and passed on the $390pp 9-course tasting menu, and even the mini 3-course version for $190, opting instead for an appetizer each and the veal chop for two. The shrimp "sandwich" starter served sushi-style was bland to the point of needing salt, kindly offered on the plate (!). My starter of paillard terrine was similarly non-exciting, despite its many layers - no complementary flavors here, everything just melded together to blah. Four medallions of the veal chop were served to each of us, along with a tiny portion of tiny veggies (carrots, parsnips, wow in July, how boring) and truffle mashed potatoes, which were buttery and delicious but not very truffly. The best things were found on the bread cart, which did have a terrific array of options. The wine suggested by the sommelier was okay, but not for more than $30/glass. The appetizers were minimum $50 and the chop was $140.
Guy was there and came by twice but we were not pleased. We were entirely pleasant to him as we conversed, but I think he could tell this was not our favorite meal, as he followed us out the door in a nearly desperate attempt to ensure we had a good time. We did not. The service was stifling and stuffy - overly attentive to the point of overbearing, yet unprofessional. The waiter was an ill-informed college student, who mispronounced several items, and offered poorly rehearsed recitations when asked to elaborate on the short menu descriptions. Having eaten at several 2- and 3-star places throughout France, the SO and I concurred that emperor Guy Savoy has no clothes. Perhaps the SO and I are simply not at a place where we equate an evening of fine dining with extravagantly priced yet uninspired food (even the presentations were boring) combined with obsequious fawning.
I've paid far more for a meal in LA, Vegas and Europe. But this place smacks of trophy wives and mansionization: I've arrived so I can eat here, even if it means nothing. Stay away.