The Dairy, Clapham, London
- limster Jan 19, 2014 09:57 AM
Excellent modern European, with a diversity of textures that normally characterise dishes from South East Asia. In many dishes, there were all sorts of crunchy bits from fried or dried vegetables, to flavoured crumbs that remind me of toast rice flour generate good textural enhancement, all in contrast to tender, soft or firm meat.
Good lush green olives, big ones that resemble those at Bocca di Lupo.
Tender, supple slices of salmon, bolstered by the pungency of horseradish and some seaweed.
Jerusalem artichoke were thinly sliced lengthwise, providing a brittle snap, a very mild nutty flavour, contrasting with lovely lumps of goats cheese.
An amazing warm loaf of sourdough, not really sour at all, but with a gorgeous crust, all crackle and snap, a pillowy interior, and a light woodsy/earthy flavour. One of the best breads I've had in a restaurant, perhaps a tiny notch down from the loaf at Restaurant Story at the most, would be perfectly at home at a place like Tetote. Accompanied by a smoky bone marrow butter, very smooth chicken liver mousse, and a few slices of salumi.
Big crunchy bites of chicken skin contrast with soft mushrooms, and the vegetal snap of kale. A superb dish with lovely flavours and textures.
A "meaty" (perhaps umami packed) flavour in the bonito butter that served as a sauce for the red mullet.
Then well tuned smokiness in firm but tender smoked cod, with soft slippery sorrel and leeks, and crunchy bits from toast.
Beets provided a sweet classic contrast to venison, in a pleasant chocolate sauce. More chocolaty and not nearly as nutty and bitter as one of my favourite dishes from a late restaurant in San Francisco. But well cooked all the same.
Great desserts - sweet clementines, caramelised on the side, with soft and slightly nutty and rich brown butter ice cream along with crunchy pops of puffed rice.
Great flavour in the malted barley ice cream, with a light touch of salted caramel and another lovely contrast from dry, crumbly biscuits.