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Cordes-sur-Ciel, Tarn

Discerning1 Jan 9, 2014 07:44 PM

I'm going to be spending several weeks in Cordes, France this summer. Does anyone have restaurant, market or general food recommendations for Cordes and the surrounding area?

It is about 50 miles from Toulouse.

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  1. Parigi Jan 10, 2014 02:18 AM

    Don't miss the market day - Thursday morning - in the bastide square of Villefranche de Rouergue. It is one of my 3 fave markets in France, and I'm a market hound.
    Cordes sur Ciel is a beautiful village. Gaillac, not far away, is a great town with food and wine focus, in an equally enchanting region. I liked especially the restaurant Vigne en foule.
    You are lucky to be spending holiday in this secret jewel of a region.
    I hope Yank will chime in. That epicure knows the area inside out.

    4 Replies
    1. re: Parigi
      alohatoall Feb 19, 2014 06:35 PM

      Parigi, when we were there in mid-October, there was construction in the square and the market had been moved. Don't know the current situation.

      1. re: alohatoall
        Parigi Feb 20, 2014 01:38 AM

        The Villefranche market ? Permanent move ? No. Effing. Way.
        I'm going to die.

        1. re: alohatoall
          Parigi Feb 20, 2014 01:46 AM

          Whew, I can breathe now.
          According to this article,
          1. The move is temporary.
          2. The market is temporarily set up in the Halle (covered market) on Place Antoine de Morlhon).
          3. The construction which was supposed to last 4 months was obviously delayed, as it was still ongoing when you were there in October 2013. Which gives us optimism about it being open this year in the warmer months…

          1. re: Parigi
            alohatoall Feb 20, 2014 12:43 PM

            Didn't mean to imply that the move was permanent. Sorry for the scare, Parigi!

      2. BlueOx Jan 10, 2014 06:02 AM

        Check out a recently published book, "Tales from the Hilltop: A Summer in the other South of France" by Tony Lewis. It is centered in Cordes, about a couple of Brits running a biking and walking operation. Tony talks about places for food throughout the area. Plus gives a really good feel for life there/

        1 Reply
        1. re: BlueOx
          Discerning1 Feb 9, 2014 11:57 AM

          The book arrived this week. Thanks for the tip!

        2. johannabanana Feb 19, 2014 08:58 AM

          Café Joubert is a lovely café/wine bar/restaurant in Fayssac, between Gaillac and Cordes-sur-ciel. Our favourite place we ate at in the Tarn two years ago. Really fresh food, inexpensive and charming, situated in the middle of a pretty village, with lots of outdoor seating. They hold concerts some evenings -- you could ring them to ask the schedule. Delicious lunches. Might well need to reserve. Not sure if they serve dinner.

          I second Parigi's recommendation of Vigne en Foule, very reasonable wine prices by the glass if you want to try a selection from their list. The main courses (better than the starters) are large: we had an excellent steak and a pork chop on dfifferent nights, big enough to share. They also sell their wines at retail prices if you want to take some back to where you're staying. You would probably want to reserve ahead.

          Also recommended is the "Nature et progres" market in Gaillac on Tuesdays from 4-7:30 pm in the place du Griffoul. (In Gaillac, the easiest place to park is on the place Saint-Michel, next to the church, from where it's a short walk to the market.) There's also a smaller "Nature et progres" market on Tuesdays from 4-7:30 pm in the place Fernand Pelloutier in Albi. The one in Gaillac has all sorts of delicious cheeses, fruits, meats and vegetables and has a fun atmosphere.

          1 Reply
          1. re: johannabanana
            Discerning1 Feb 19, 2014 12:27 PM

            Thank you.

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