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Jan 9, 2014 03:23 PM

Missed out on the ferme auberge experience

My husband and I, while living in The Netherlands , spent four years vacationing in France to include a summer driving the circumference of the country. We used Chowhound (thank you mangeur and Parigi) to help navigate the food landscape of the country.
We are now back in the States but will spend this May, once again, vacationing in France. The first week will be spent in the Avignon area and the last two weeks in Paris.
The one experience that eluded us was eating at a ferme auberge. With a car, we plan to spend the week between Avignon and Paris driving through Languedoc, Aude, or the Pyrannise regions of France tracking down ferme auberges.
We would appreciate your list of recommended ferme auberges in these areas.
Perhaps, there is a grand trek we can take from Avignon?

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    1. So excited to hear of your infection!

      Here is one in the area you are considering:

      Here are two more, domaines with table d'hote but not ferme auberge, that we will visit this spring.

      They might work for you. In all event, enjoy the country1

      1. Where's the Pyrannise??? o_O

        1. "between Avignon and Paris driving through Languedoc, Aude, or the Pyrannise regions "
          Near Avignon, just outside Arles is the very good Ferme-Auberge Barbegal.
          Nearby is also the Mas des Vertes Rives.
          Then toward the Pyrenees (that's what you mean, right), there are two excellent ferme-auberges that serve a more sophisticated cuisine:
          Outside Collioure is Les Clos de Paulilles
          Very near the Atlantic Coast outside the beautiful village of Sare is Olhabidea, one of my fave spots, for the food, the beautiful rooms and the reasonable price.
          It is imperative that you reserve. Some are open only a couple of days during the week. All are immensely popular with locals.

          3 Replies
          1. re: Parigi

            Can't help with the ferme itself, but wanted to mention that we had beef from Sare on our trip through l'Aude last year, and it was AMAZING. Most impressive dish we had on our trip, and in my top 3 beef dishes lifetime.

            1. re: estufarian

              Could you specify what you mean by beef in Sare ? Sare has several restaurnats and several butchers.

              1. re: Parigi

                The beef was FROM Sare (not IN Sare) - specifically described with that origin. I hadn't heard of it before - even asked what it was (I speculated it was a preparation style). Subsequently, I noticed a postcard being sold that had pictures of various bovines and the Sare was one of those on the card.
                My meal was at
                La Bougnate in Blesle
                and , assuming my translation was accurate, the herd was owned (or managed) by the son of the restaurant owners.
                The restaurant offered two different preparations of the Sare beef, but because this was, at the time, unknown to me, I just tried the one.

          2. I have contacted the Domaine de Pelican, Les Clos de Venes, and Les Clos de Paulilles for reservations. Thank you!

            The other question I have is where to buy champagne downtown Reims? We will take a day trip from Paris for lunch, sightseeing and shopping. The first two are no problem but we have traditionally bought our champagne directly from the smaller houses outside of town. Is there a store or area we should shop in Reims?

            2 Replies
            1. re: POY

              there are several shops right on the square in front of the Cathedral.

              1. re: sunshine842

                Thank you, that is very convenient