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Sunday lunch - Montmartre

SergeA Jan 9, 2014 12:38 PM

Hello all,
We will arrive to Paris on Sunday afternoon, and it will be great to have lunch after voyage (french cuisine preferred). We stay near Blanche, and it looks like all good eating spots nearby are out of service on Sunday. Could you please recommend decent bistro or restaurant for Sunday lunch?

  1. John Talbott Jan 25, 2014 09:30 AM

    OK so I went to two Yankee places in SoPi, both on the Rue Monnier, the Buvette Gastrotheque (28) and Sugar Daze (20); the Buvette serves French food but simple but I'm afraid the Sunday brunch may not be wghat you're looking for. The Sugar Daze cupcakes are most certainly not French but mighty good.

    3 Replies
    1. re: John Talbott
      SergeA Jan 26, 2014 12:18 AM

      Thanks John! Cupcakes are not I'm dying for, but I'll put the Buvette in my list.

      1. re: SergeA
        John Talbott Jan 26, 2014 12:38 AM

        But it's nowhere near as good as Jeanne B.

        1. re: John Talbott
          Parigi Jan 26, 2014 01:36 AM

          Jeanne B, very good standby. Dependable good food that gets better all the time.

    2. Parnassien Jan 10, 2014 03:09 PM

      Re Jeanne B. Agree it is the best of your options but, according to one of my sisters who lives just up the hill, Sunday lunch is its busiest time and getting a table without rezzies is a crap shoot... she says after 2pm is better.

      Re Cantine de la Cigale (which I personally like even more than Jeanne B), it is usually closed on Sunday but Talbott le Vénérable seems to have some info that it is moving to a 7/7 schedule. And a big hallelujah if it is. My plan C for when La Cantine de la Cigale is closed or requires a long wait: Le Petit Trianon, also on the bd de Rochechouart, near Anvers métro... food is less certainly less good and more inconsistent than Jeanne B and Cantine Cigale but decent enough and the space/ buzz can sometimes make up for the culinary lapses.

      Plan D. Rue des Abbesses (a short but uphill walk via the very atmospheric rue Lepic from Blanche métro). La Mascotte is a fun old-school brasserie with a superb seafood annexe for a very good fruits de mer platter or decent but not eye-opening trad brasserie fare. Or the bar à vins Cave des Abbesses for an excellent charcuterie/ cheese platter. If all else fails, an omelette (or something very simple) and people-watching at Le Sancerre café.

      Sud Pigalle is a bit dead on Sunday. All the action is concentrated on the Hotel Amour restaurant/ garden but ultra-trendy and not very tourist friendly. Despite the prejudices of anti-trendy Chowhounders, not really all that bad but quite a voir-et-se-faire-voir scene and regulars vs the others that might be a little off-putting. Foodwise, it's pretty eclectic but surprisingly good.

      6 Replies
      1. re: Parnassien
        SergeA Jan 11, 2014 05:57 AM

        Parnassien, thank you very much for such valuable addition to this thread. Maybe I underestimated the importance of lunch reservation in Paris :)

        1. re: SergeA
          John Talbott Jan 11, 2014 05:45 PM

          "Maybe I underestimated the importance of lunch reservation"
          I cannot nor would I dare speak for Parnassien, but I (like the Chicago pol's friends' instruction to vote early and often) urge all and sundry to reserve always.
          The last few weeks, supposedly the "low season" in French/Parisian restos, we've been in several places where drop-ins were not able to be seated.
          And telephoning is key; I tried to go to the Cantine de la Cigale & it was closed (for renovation - like Jeanne B.) until January 12th - hey, that's tmrw.
          As leMarais said wisely - "What's the downside to reserving?"

        2. re: Parnassien
          John Talbott Jan 11, 2014 05:55 PM

          "Talbott le Vénérable seems to have some info that it is moving to a 7/7 schedule"
          The line between vénérability and senility is a very very thin one - did I really say that? Snowden, are you listening?

          1. re: John Talbott
            Parigi Jan 12, 2014 03:20 AM

            Snowden may not be senile. You are eternally hip.

            1. re: John Talbott
              Parnassien Jan 12, 2014 03:45 AM

              A reminder of what T le Vénérable wrote (in case Snowden is suffering from an overdose of vodka and golubsty in his Moscow lair and wasn't paying attention):
              "Thus Plan B, the Cantine de la Cigale is top-top and open 7/7 again after Jan 12th, they say no rezzies, so drop in."

              But now I suspect Mr Hip Hip was carried along by the top-top to write 7/7. The perhaps more correct 6/7 would have ruined the rhythm.

              1. re: Parnassien
                John Talbott Jan 12, 2014 09:27 AM

                Ah I did say that after I'd read the signs in the window last Thursday saying they'd be open again Jan 12th, But did I make the 7/7 thing up? Or only assume it since the 12th is a Sunday?

          2. s
            SergeA Jan 10, 2014 08:11 AM

            JT, thanks for reply. Any other thoughts? In case if Jeanne B. will be full... Or is it unlikely case?
            South of Pigalle also works.

            15 Replies
            1. re: SergeA
              John Talbott Jan 10, 2014 08:37 AM

              It's unlikely if you call now.

              1. re: John Talbott
                SergeA Jan 10, 2014 08:57 AM

                Don't want to make international calls - I'm in Russia now. And I was unable to find how to do that with internet or email.

                1. re: SergeA
                  John Talbott Jan 10, 2014 12:24 PM

                  OK, so I called Jeanne B. just now and got the answering machine, but it's big, one can walk in.
                  Thus Plan B, the Cantine de la Cigale is top-top and open 7/7 again after Jan 12th, they say no rezzies, so drop in.
                  My services are charged at NYC lawyer rates, which are, according to my agent, Pierre45 1,000 dollars a request.

                  1. re: John Talbott
                    Parigi Jan 10, 2014 12:50 PM

                    Of course you get the answering machine. Jeanne B is closed for holiday until next Monday. Jeanne B in fact has been getting better and better.
                    Re reservation, most Paris restaurants do not have website reservation. One needs to call to reserve. Can't be too difficult to figure out even from Russia. Monday already is slim picking. If one is reservation-allergic, it is just giving oneself one too many obstacles.

                    1. re: Parigi
                      SergeA Jan 10, 2014 02:07 PM

                      Parigi, I get the point.

                      1. re: SergeA
                        Parigi Jan 10, 2014 03:01 PM

                        One place that is open Sunday afternoon is the new cheese traiteur-restaurant l'Affineur affiné, serving cheese main courses, cheese-tasting on tartines, and cheese desserts. On rue Notre Dame de Lorettes, just south of rue Blanche.

                        1. re: SergeA
                          Parigi Jan 10, 2014 03:33 PM

                          Another good option near you that is open Sunday afternoon is Terra Corsa that serves the fabled Corsican charcuteries and pasta dishes. You usually do not need reservation. It is on rue des Martyrs, or sud Pigalle as Parn calls it now. Les Mascottes, mentioned by Parn, is a dependable café-brasserie, with very good oysters at all times, including the famous Gillardeau. The Cave des Abbesses is verye pleasant and hip. I don't find the food excellent as Parn does. It is good, not very good. The place is mainly a very low key yet people-watching kind of place.
                          For the hip wine-bar genre in that area I much prefer La Bascule. The wines, the food, the service, the ambiance are across-the-board better than La Cave des Abbesses.
                          Too bad you won't arrive in the morning. The rue Lepic market is ace.

                          1. re: Parigi
                            Parnassien Jan 10, 2014 04:14 PM

                            Agree that La Bascule is a better bar à vins/ cantine than Cave des Abbesses... but I had thought la Bascule was evening only until your post prompted me to check... and it is indeed open for Sunday lunch (evening only on weekdays).

                            BTW (and apologies to others for the detour), I and mes semblables use the designation Sud Pigalle/ SoPi to describe a rather narrow previously ill-defined swathe of geography south of Pigalle and north of St-Georges and la Nouvelle Athènes and only use it when talking about restos/ bars in that area... when referring to shops/ residences in the same zone, I'd use the nearest métro to indicate the geography. For the French mind, context is everything... sorry. :)

                            1. re: Parnassien
                              Parigi Jan 10, 2014 04:18 PM

                              I noted. We say mainly Martyr here. Somtimes St George, Rochechouart. And, proudly, Pigalle.

                              1. re: Parigi
                                Parnassien Jan 10, 2014 04:38 PM

                                I only use Pigalle when talking about the narrow hip-n-sleaze strip along, above, and below the bd de Clichy/ bd de Rochechouart. But I do have an exceptionally hip actor friend who lives in a very expensive quintessentially Nouvelle Athènes villa and who has in the last few years begun to describe his quartier as Pigalle. Very hip inverse snobbery. And kinda laughable.

                                1. re: Parnassien
                                  Ptipois Jan 10, 2014 10:49 PM

                                  Rue Pigalle is actually below Rochechouart, so it is not laughable at all to call that area Pigalle. It was called that name already in the days of Bob le Flambeur.

                                  1. re: Ptipois
                                    Parnassien Jan 11, 2014 02:31 AM

                                    Contre Mesdames Ptipois, Brissaud, Parigi et Cixi, quoi faire ?

                                    Bob le Flambeur never seemed to wander more than a few metres from the boulevards Clichy and Rochechouart... which reinforces my point that the Pigalle quartier is a very narrow lateral corridor in the 9th and 18th and does not extend very far south. And indeed the transition from the typically Pigalle-ish tone to something more respectable and bourgeois is pretty abrupt.... just a few minutes to go from one world to another. Maybe it's the line of "respectability" that defines the boundary.

                                    And my friend lives off the rue Ballu. Totally removed from the spirit and tone of Pigalle. So it is laughable that he insists on calling his 'hood Pigalle... it's just that in today's world the Pigalle label gives him more street cred.

                                    1. re: Parnassien
                                      Ptipois Jan 11, 2014 04:31 AM

                                      I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on that. I think your mistake lies in the association "Pigalle = red bars and overall irrespectability". No. Pigalle is, and always was, a neighborhood extending North and South of Place Pigalle and either side of rue Pigalle down to, say, rue Saint-Georges/rue Choron/rue La Bruyère, and it always included hot areas and quieter, residential neighborhoods. It is not exclusively defined by its excesses. I am not even sure rue Ballu isn't part of Pigalle since it is just off rue Blanche.

                            2. re: Parigi
                              SergeA Jan 11, 2014 06:00 AM

                              Parigi, I will put all the places you mentioned on my map. Since we will stay there, knowing of nearby decent places will help in mornings and late evenings.

                        2. re: John Talbott
                          SergeA Jan 10, 2014 02:04 PM

                          To JT:
                          :) I'll send you a cheque. Thanks a lot for the great news about Cigale. It, actually, WAS my plan B, before I read on their site they're out of service on Sundays. Jeanne B. and Cigale (as B) is more than enough.

                  2. John Talbott Jan 9, 2014 12:41 PM

                    Easy Serge - Jeanne B. 61 rue Lepic T:01 42 51 17 53
                    I live nearby and it's great.
                    Not your "High" but fun and good and French cuisine - far surpassing its parents - Jeanne A. and Astier.

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