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Towards better gribenes (crisped chicken skins, cracklings)

a
AdinaA Jan 6, 2014 09:41 AM

Take pieces of chicken skin and spread them out on a dry, clean baking sheet. Bake at 400F for about ten minutes, until they reach a golden brown and start to darken. Remove onto a plate or paper towels.

You get something like chicken chips. Thinness and with a more even crunch than gribenes cooked in shmaltz.

I often start Friday dinner with individually plated salads: cucumbers, tomatoes, avocados and either mangoes or pears - drizzled with a Dijon vinaigrette. And sprinkled with chicken skin chips broken into pieces about 1" sq.

This is really easy to do. The skins can be made days ahead. And it's a wow.

  1. a
    AdinaA Jan 6, 2014 09:56 AM

    You can stuff raw chicken skins into a plastic bag, then thaw and cook weeks later. Many kosher butchers (including Grow and Behold) sell them.

    1. weinstein5 Jan 6, 2014 10:23 AM

      This is very timely - The Jewel in Evanston just started selling packages of chicken skin for gribenes and I was considering making them - thinking how my mom fried them up in a skillet but I like your oven method better - now I just need to convnce my wife to let me try making them -

      12 Replies
      1. re: weinstein5
        a
        AdinaA Jan 6, 2014 10:46 AM

        Don't try. Make a clandestine batch, sprinkle them on her salad without telling her what they are. Or put out a few large square ones with a bowl of guacamole.

        It's love at first bite.

        People tend to recoil a little if I offer them gribenes. So I just serve them chicken chips without saying a word. Until they ask.

        1. re: AdinaA
          weinstein5 Jan 6, 2014 10:53 AM

          good idea!

          1. re: weinstein5
            d
            DeisCane Jan 6, 2014 12:03 PM

            Or better yet, make it with goose. :-)

            1. re: DeisCane
              a
              AdinaA Jan 6, 2014 01:27 PM

              Bragging about the advantage of shopping in a British butcher shop instead of an American one, are you? Ducks, we have, but kosher geese are hard to come by on this side of the pond.

              1. re: AdinaA
                d
                DeisCane Jan 6, 2014 02:27 PM

                Well, to be fair, I've only had that in Hungary. And only once. But the rumor is that La Boucherie in Barnet has goose. I plan to check it out after I get back from the States.

                1. re: DeisCane
                  bagelman01 Jan 6, 2014 02:35 PM

                  One of the advantage of living outside the city, is that I'm able to buy a live bird at a local poultry farm and have the old time shochet take care of it.

                  Every Chanukah I make roast goose, and this year I made both goose gribenes and helzel.

                  Note to Adina: Your quick method sounds great, much easier than rendering in a saucepan, BUT I always put an onion in the pan whlle rebdering the schmaltz and making gribenes. I think I might miss some of the flavor the onion gives to the finished product. So in the next few weeks I'll try a split batch and compare.

                  1. re: bagelman01
                    a
                    avitrek Jan 6, 2014 02:43 PM

                    I'm sure you've thought of this, but you could try adding some onion powder before you roast it to replace the lost onion flavor.

                    1. re: avitrek
                      weinstein5 Jan 6, 2014 02:47 PM

                      I would just put in raw onion - I love roasted onion

                      1. re: avitrek
                        bagelman01 Jan 7, 2014 05:06 AM

                        I have considered and rejected the onion powder. Onion powder is not one of the spices I like. If mixed into a wet item it is passable. When sprinkled onto the outside of poultry skin and roasted (even on a whole chicken) above 325 F I find it imparts a burnt/bitter taste.

                      2. re: bagelman01
                        d
                        DeisCane Jan 6, 2014 03:05 PM

                        bagel,

                        Which farm/shochet did you use this past year?

                        1. re: DeisCane
                          bagelman01 Jan 7, 2014 05:03 AM

                          Sent you PM via FB. I don't have rishut to share some info publicly

            2. re: weinstein5
              c
              chicago maven Jan 6, 2014 05:50 PM

              Don't mess with a good thing. There is a reason that your mom fried them.
              Boy, does this bring back memories.

            3. gotcholent Jan 6, 2014 04:09 PM

              As a fun twist, try putting some brown sugar based bbq rub over the skins for the final 5 minutes in the oven. The sugar and spices marry with the fat to create a very creme brulee sort of effect. I call 'em Cowboy Gribenez and they rock! Equally good with Turkey skins and absolutely sublime with duck/goose.

              1 Reply
              1. re: gotcholent
                weinstein5 Jan 6, 2014 05:47 PM

                oooh that does sounds good!

              2. a
                AdinaA Jan 8, 2014 09:43 AM

                So, this post began with my method of oven crisping the skins of perfectly mundane Empire chicken that I tear off chicken pieces, shove into a bag, and freeze until wanted.

                today I attempted to oven crisp chicken skins purchased from an upscale, organic butcher. Instead of lying flat on the baking sheet until crisp, these skins curled up so that the end-product was more like traditional gribenes (which cooks unevenly and curls up)

                Anyone care to speculate on why this happened? There may have been more fat clinging to the purchased skins.

                12 Replies
                1. re: AdinaA
                  c
                  cheesecake17 Jan 8, 2014 10:49 AM

                  Do you defrost the chicken skins before baking?

                  1. re: cheesecake17
                    a
                    AdinaA Jan 8, 2014 11:00 AM

                    Yes.

                    1. re: AdinaA
                      c
                      cheesecake17 Jan 9, 2014 04:51 PM

                      I'm going to have to try this

                  2. re: AdinaA
                    b
                    bubbaboy8 Jan 8, 2014 11:01 AM

                    Were the ones that you bought frozen first before you turned them into gribenes? If not, here's my first pass at a theory:

                    Freezing food causes low-level damage to the "structural integrity" of the food. The ice crystals that form from the frozen water puncture cells, which is why a lot of defrosted food tends to be at least a bit mushy at first. So, your frozen skins probably lay flat because they've been "damaged" in the freezing/defrosting process, while the new "fresh" skins lack that damage.

                    1. re: bubbaboy8
                      d
                      DeisCane Jan 8, 2014 11:34 AM

                      I think we need a "Good Eats" on gribenes!

                      1. re: DeisCane
                        a
                        AdinaA Jan 8, 2014 12:08 PM

                        What's a "Good Eats"?

                        1. re: AdinaA
                          bagelman01 Jan 8, 2014 12:15 PM

                          Alton Brown series on the Food Network where he deals with the physiology of food and how it affects cooking

                          1. re: AdinaA
                            a
                            asf78 Jan 8, 2014 12:21 PM

                            It's a show on the Food Network with Alton Brown. Each episode is a type of food, and he presents some history, ways to cook it, some of the science behind a specific method of cooking that type of food, etc. Or he will focus on a specific cooking method (e.g., frying) or a more generalized theme (e.g., (an upcoming holiday). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Good_Eats http://www.foodnetwork.com/good-eats/index.html

                            In doing a google search, it looks like the show has moved to Cooking Channel http://www.cookingchanneltv.com/shows...

                            There is a lot to learn from the show, and it is presented in a very accessible manner (so really ideal for a new or tentative cook, but also good for people with more experience, especially those interested in history or science of foods). I have trouble getting past some of the hokiness of the humor.

                            1. re: asf78
                              d
                              DeisCane Jan 8, 2014 12:23 PM

                              All good and accurate, except I love the humor. :-)

                          2. re: DeisCane
                            b
                            bubbaboy8 Jan 8, 2014 12:19 PM

                            A friend of mine once referred to me as "the Alton Brown of kosher food", so maybe I'll do it. :-)

                          3. re: bubbaboy8
                            a
                            AdinaA Jan 8, 2014 12:07 PM

                            That is possible. The Empire skins had been in the freezer in a thin ziploc sandwich bag for 2 - 3 months.

                          4. re: AdinaA
                            bagelman01 Jan 8, 2014 11:50 AM

                            Chances are that your first batch of chicken skin that you had frozen (think freezer burn or the dryness of thawed frozen rye bread as opposed to fresh) had a much lower mositure content than the fresh skin from the butcher.

                            The skin with more moisture (fat and/or water) will curl/shrink more in the cooking process.

                            >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
                            Second theory is that the upscale poultry had a different diet from the Empire birds which may have affected moisture/fat content

                            >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
                            Third theory, different salting and soaking (all above the minimum required for kashrut, but leaving the organic skin moister

                            >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
                            BTW, the only thing better than discussing gribenes is eating gribenes.

                          5. h
                            helou Jan 8, 2014 12:52 PM

                            My mother always made these the traditional way, slowly on the stove, just with pieces of chicken fat, not skin. And of course the fat that liquefied off was shmaltz, kept in a jar.

                            So would this method work with pieces of fat? I like the idea of doing this in the oven. Do you think I could put them into one of those disposable lasagna pans to catch the shmaltz so it's not flowing all over my oven? It seems like 10 minutes wouldn't be long enough.

                            5 Replies
                            1. re: helou
                              s
                              sharonfl Jan 8, 2014 02:13 PM

                              I haven't tried AdinaA's method yet, but if I use disposable pans I put the disposable pan on top of a "regular" pan. I find aluminum does a poor job of baking in general. The thin metal doesn't retain heat as well as a thicker metal or Corning or Pyrex. Heat radiated by the cooking vessel is different than the heated air of the oven. I'm sure Alton Brown could explain it! I also grew up with onion with my gribenes. In Adina's method, I might try adding onions to the pan and stirring intermittently while the skin becomes crispety-crunchity.

                              1. re: helou
                                weinstein5 Jan 8, 2014 02:51 PM

                                If it is just fat you will not get Gribbenes - Grebbenes is the what is left of the chicken skin once the fat has rendered out of it - basically crunchy goodness -

                                1. re: weinstein5
                                  h
                                  helou Jan 9, 2014 04:46 AM

                                  I'm not sure that's correct. My understanding has always been that the gribines (or grievelach as we used to call them) are the connective tissue that remains after the fat melts away. As the fat is rendered out, the connective tissue is getting fried.
                                  Same story with skin gribenes - it's what remains when the fat melts away.

                                  1. re: helou
                                    a
                                    AdinaA Jan 9, 2014 05:46 AM

                                    It is true that if you take some loose fat with no skin attached from a chicken and set it on top of the bird as you put it into the oven to roast (so that it will baste the bird) when the bird is roasted that lump of fat will have melted away leaving a crispy piece of gribenes. You definitely produce that sort of gribenes when you render poultry fat. Whether that connective tissue, or the skin, or both were what the old country called gribenes, I couldn't say. But I understand the English world cracklings to encompass both.

                                    1. re: helou
                                      weinstein5 Jan 9, 2014 06:54 AM

                                      I have always heard that it is was the skin -

                                2. b
                                  Bzdhkap Jan 25, 2014 03:51 PM

                                  Adina,
                                  In your original recipe, which started this thread - did you season the skin, or add anything at all?

                                  1 Reply
                                  1. re: Bzdhkap
                                    a
                                    AdinaA Jan 25, 2014 08:33 PM

                                    I added nothing at all. Didn't even grease the baking pan.

                                  2. weinstein5 Feb 9, 2014 02:17 PM

                                    Finally broke down and boght the chicken skins followed this prep method and they cam out great!

                                    1. a
                                      AdinaA Mar 7, 2014 08:23 AM

                                      Just discovered the most astonishing easy, thrifty, no-mess method of making gribenes that is better than bacon.

                                      I needed a really easy Shabbos. So I shoved about 3 lbs of perfectly mundane Empire chicken pieces, leg qaurters, from FreshDirect with the skin on into an aluminum foil pan and stuck it in the oven preheated ot 425 F I left it at 425 for about 40 minutes, then turned it down to 375 until the chicken was done. My goal was roasted, boned chicken to make a cold chicken salad for lunch tomorrow.

                                      I lifted the chicken out of the pan and left it to cool while I took a scheduled phone call. When I went back to bone the now-cool chicken, acting on impulse, I pulled off the (golden-brown on top but still pale and soft on the underside) skins off the meat and dropped them into the aluminum pan, spreading them somewhat flat in the layer of chicken fat. Stuck pan with skins back into the oven at 400 F and went back to my desk until the skin was a darkish golden brown; by then almost all of the liquid had evaporated. Lifted gribenes out onto paper towels. Threw pan away (eco-wasteful, but hey, no clean-up, no spattering, no mess at all)

                                      It is the crispest, most delicious gribenes I have ever tasted. The roasted, boned chicken is delicious, too. New menu plan calls for crumbling gribenes over room temperature chicken salad for Shabbos lunch.

                                      If there is any left by lunch time.

                                      This stuff is the crispiest, crunchiest, absolutely best savory snack that I have ever eaten.

                                      Attaching a photo of a few pieces set on eco-correct, recycled, paper towel with a mug in the photo for scale.

                                      Just ate another piece. this stuff is so good.

                                       
                                      2 Replies
                                      1. re: AdinaA
                                        weinstein5 Mar 7, 2014 08:53 AM

                                        That looks great! Have a Good Shabbos with those gribbenes I am sure you will

                                        1. re: AdinaA
                                          bagelman01 Mar 7, 2014 09:15 AM

                                          Just the correct quantity for a snack with a mug of tea

                                        2. d
                                          Doctormhl1 Mar 10, 2014 04:25 PM

                                          Nein, nein, nein, Adina: You are defeating the primary purpose of gribine-eating which is to ingest the maximum amount of PURE, unadulterated chicken shmaltz in the shortest possible time.
                                          (Shulchan Aruch: Orach Chaim: 346- siman vav, seif aleph.)
                                          Furthermore,to combine gribines with salads, fruits, etc. are almost acts of heresy. FEH! Repent, Adina.

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