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Trends

Parigi Jan 2, 2014 03:08 AM

First of all, the WTF trend:
Hamburger and hot dog. They have always been around, but now Parisian hipsters are making them hip without improving their taste.

Now the let's-hope-this-becomes-a-trend trend:
Fish and chips, as done by Dans Les Landes et co.

Taste trends:
- Espelette pepper is welcome to linger
- Terre et mer - meat&seafood combo dishes - is seen more and more. The way Jégo does it, it is a blast of surprise in all the right ways.
- Foam, yuzu and pumpkin soup are yester-me, yester-you, yesterday. I personally hope they will be replaced by Cambodian (kampoc) pepper and Shaoxing wine (in marinade or sauce), but no one asked me.

The trend we love:
Japanese chefs doing their take on French cuisine. They seem to be all good. And this trend is not just a Parisian thAng, but all over France. Yessss !

Sur ce, Bonne Année, good eats !

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  1. p
    Ptipois RE: Parigi Jan 2, 2014 03:19 AM

    I heartily second the Shaoxing wine trend. I confess having started it in Paris by introducing Stéphane Jégo to it. He marinated a foie gras in it and wept with joy. This aromatic treasure is yet largely unknown in Parisian kitchens.

    I also second the Japanese chefs/French cuisine trend, but I have to nuance the propos: sometimes it can be a little bit of n'importe quoi, as was my definite impression at Kokoro (three square half-inches of meat and three salad leaves do not a main dish make).

    1. John Talbott RE: Parigi Jan 2, 2014 12:51 PM

      First of all, the WTF trend:
      Hamburgers and hot dogs. They have always been around, but now Parisian hipsters are making them hip without improving their taste.
      Agree and Disagree: buy Camille's buns and get your butcher to hache a great piece of beef and burn its exterior on your/my planche. As for hot dogs - faggedaboudid, Alleno's will suffice for the moment, or go to Schmid's.

      Now the let's-hope-this-becomes-a-trend trend:
      Fish and chips, as done by Dans Les Landes et co.
      Not tried; but have done Sunken Chips and I'd advise against. The French haven't yet figured out how to do chips (Sorry Pti) or serve vinegar other than Monoprix to dip them in.

      Taste trends:
      - Espelette pepper is welcome to linger - OK
      - Terre et mer - meat&seafood combo dishes - is seen more and more. The way Jégo does it, it is a blast of surprise in all the right ways. There you go again on Jego. Hey you have your Jego - I have my Ledeuil.
      - Foam, yuzu and pumpkin soup are yester-me, yester-you, yesterday. I personally hope they will be replaced by Cambodian (kampoc) pepper and Shaoxing wine (in marinade or sauce), but no one asked me.

      The trends we love:
      Japanese chefs doing their take on French cuisine.
      Agree; Colette (who has resurfaced since she was threatened outing declared Les Enfants Rouge "Best of" 2013.

      I would add to the cancel list
      - Slate plates
      - Foams
      - Asking you every two minutes if you like it
      - Pesky fellow Yankees in a secretly found restaurant/bistro that no one on the internet/CH/PbM knows about.

      Sur ce, Bonne Année, good eats !

      We too, John and Colette Talbott.

      6 Replies
      1. re: John Talbott
        Parigi RE: John Talbott Jan 2, 2014 12:56 PM

        "First of all, the WTF trend:
        Hamburger and hot dog. They have always been around, but now Parisian hipsters are making them hip without improving their taste."
        "Disagree: buy Camille's buns and get your butcher to hache a great piece of beef and burn its exterior on the stove."
        We all know you to be the capo di tutti capi of hipsters, still, what you cook at home may - make it must - must be transcendental hip but it does not constitute a trend.

        1. re: Parigi
          John Talbott RE: Parigi Jan 2, 2014 01:07 PM

          Hummm, I'm not a trend? If I'm a hipster (declared so by Souphie/Julot/etc.) am I thus chopped liver?

          1. re: John Talbott
            mangeur RE: John Talbott Jan 2, 2014 01:13 PM

            You are foie gras.

            1. re: mangeur
              John Talbott RE: mangeur Jan 2, 2014 01:19 PM

              A big difference,

              1. re: John Talbott
                Parigi RE: John Talbott Jan 2, 2014 01:24 PM

                Indeed it can be argued that you are trend on two legs.

        2. re: John Talbott
          p
          Ptipois RE: John Talbott Jan 2, 2014 06:36 PM

          "Not tried; but have done Sunken Chips and I'd advise against. The French haven't yet figured out how to do chips (Sorry Pti)."

          They may not have figured out chips but some have mastered frites quite well. That will do for me (for instance the frites at Frenchie to Go). Sunken Chip is probably the worst of the bunch.

        3. PhilD RE: Parigi Jan 2, 2014 02:56 PM

          So butter milk soaked deep fried chicken hasn't reached you yet - it can't be long as it pops up soon after the new hotdogs and burgers. Of the course the burgers need to be faithful reproductions of upmarket fast food ones, nice and sloppy, greasy and very very juicy - and John impossible to do at home unless you have perfected the brioche buns the combo sauces and the mix of beef cuts and fat to give just the right texture.

          And yes definitely WTF.

          1. Parnassien RE: Parigi Jan 2, 2014 04:43 PM

            And for the oh-no list, let's add the kale (cow fodder) craze ... and Brooklyn restos faithfully reproduced down to the last detail in the 11th.

            4 Replies
            1. re: Parnassien
              Parigi RE: Parnassien Jan 2, 2014 11:51 PM

              O I so agree with you re the kale krap.

              1. re: Parigi
                p
                Ptipois RE: Parigi Jan 3, 2014 02:08 AM

                I'm an anti-kale crusader.

              2. re: Parnassien
                Busk RE: Parnassien Jan 3, 2014 06:35 AM

                Those Brooklyn restos are the only places I eat....

                Also, aren't burgers and hotdogs just typical French bistro fare deconstructed?

                1. re: Busk
                  Parigi RE: Busk Jan 3, 2014 06:45 AM

                  Didn't I say in the original post that burgers and hotdogs have always been around but have been made hip by hipsters, without being made better, or did I just dream it, like the Zhuangzhi dude ?

              3. t
                tmso RE: Parigi Jan 3, 2014 12:33 AM

                The only good thing about the hip hamburger trend is that it makes home cooks look really good. I visited LA at the height of the hip haute hamburger trend there some five or so years ago, and I thought that was sure to make it over here. At least I can copy what the Angelinos were doing, in my own kitchen, and have tasty, hip bbqs. Pain brioché, and entrecôte haché, doesn't even require any great ability in the kitchen.

                Espelette pepper; I'm hoping this has been a trend long enough now that it's never going away. Some tastes start as trends and end out getting fixed in the national palette.

                Shaoxing wine: yes yes yes.

                1. t
                  tmso RE: Parigi Jan 3, 2014 12:54 AM

                  The still hip, still only nascent trend I hope finally catches on this year: hip German food. I first spotted currywurst in a few hip bars in 2004, and since then there have been a few bakeries, recently a breakfast place. After years of looking to Italy, there was a big francification in contemporary German food in the early 2000's; since then I've been hoping for an echo on this side of the Rhine.

                  In particular, German patisserie is ripe to be taken up. Big silly presentations like the recent unfortunate americana trend, but with a solid base that has a nice history of conversation with French patisserie.

                  1. Rio Yeti RE: Parigi Jan 3, 2014 02:33 AM

                    You can add "pastrami sandwiches" to burgers and hotdogs... have not tried the Frenchie-to-go version, but the Freddie's Deli's is really not worth taking the metro for...

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: Rio Yeti
                      Parigi RE: Rio Yeti Jan 3, 2014 03:47 AM

                      "pastrami sandwiches"
                      We are faithful to Finkelsztajn's on rue des Rosiers.

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