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Dec 25, 2013 05:26 AM

Sushi Kimura

Sushi Kimura
Due to a delayed flight, I arrived 35 mins late for my reservation. (I did ask the concierge to call to notify the restaurant.) When I arrived at long last, the second seating appeared well under way. I SEEMED (had no way of verifying) to have missed the appetizers and went straight into sushi. The chef appeared to serve all parties simultaneously. The nigiri consists of ika, hirame, isaki, sawara, an unknown white fish, shimaaji, kawahagi, kanpachi, ebi, kinmedai, katsuo, makaziki, hokkigai, buri, kohada, anago, maki. Conspicuously missing was any trace of maguro.
There were some very impressive items. However, something was amiss in the sushi. It is the balance between the fish and the rice. First the rice tasted rather bland. (too little vinegar??) Also, the rice appeared oversized compared with the fish. As a result, it was the bland taste of the rice lingers in the mouth.
Distinctly average were the shimaaji, ika and sawara. The 'very good' items were the kanpachi, kawahagi and the half-cooked buri. The outstanding items were the anago, which was fluffy and intense beyond description and a piece of sushi called the makaziki. (the proprietress wrote that down for me) It is a 'zuke' and very complex in taste. (photo attached)
Could anyone tell me more about what this makaziki is??

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  1. It's a shame you missed the tsumami. They are amazing and the best I've had in a sushi restaurant.

    His sushi style may seem different, but he's trying to do the most authentic edomae sushi. That's why most of his fish are aged for many days (up to a month sometimes), the rice is very firm and the portions larger (nigiris used to be much larger than what's common today).

    I believe the photo you posted is from his signature makaijiki (Blue Marlin) nigiri. He said this fish was very popular during the edo period, but now is forgotten because people became obsessed with tuna, which is making it extinct by the way.

    I found his rice very well seasoned, the taste being similar to Sushi Sho, but the texture even more firm. Actually, everything, from the tsumami to the rice and aged fish, tasted slightly stronger, which is why he suggests sake or stronger beer to go with his food.

    I need to return to Kimura to see how consistent his food can be, but my first meal there was outstanding.

    1. Some reviewers are saying that sushi sho comes from sushi Ko honten Ginza, some on the Tabelog others says that sushi Kimura is from sushi Sho reference in aging fish.. at sushi Kimura the shari is very personalized giving the balance between firm with soft sticky mature fish, giving that texture that stick to the rice, and pronounce the taste flavour.. the vinegar rice is the same provenance as the rice from one part, the rice IMHO is blend.. but arriving late 35mn was in fact very unfortunate the tsumami are very good, the chef choice if fatest liver fish, and marinate.. is wow ! I have had a lunch one year ago, and a diner 6 months ago, and I will certainly go again, the diner was very affordable at 12600yens.. the 'makajiki', referred as also 'maguro kajiki', the color is orange and is no comparaison to 'kajiki(espadon)', more rare than the 'blue marlin', the exact name is 'striped marlin', it was used old days, and when is aged as sushi Kimura is like having soft oily ham maguro espadon ! It might be the next maguro, but this is as rare !!

      1 Reply
      1. re: Ninisix

        I forgot to mention... vinegar taste is present, but not as 'piquant'. The choice of same rice same vinegar rice region is to harmonize... but still, vinegar presence can be felt. Arriving late at night might be the reason, the rice can get colder... and when eaten cold, the vinegar is not felt.