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Paul Bocuse saint sylvestre menu

Giannis Dec 21, 2013 03:31 PM

This is the menu of Paul Bocuse http://www.bocuse.fr/upload/File/aube... for the New Year's eve dinner. It looks very interesting. 5 courses, cheese and dessert with lobster, lievre, truffles, st jacques at only 290 euros. This looks like a bargain for the day , if you consider the ingredients, and how much other 2 or 3 star places charge for this day. Le relais louis xiii I think has a 900 euro menu. Eric Frechon tops at 1100 euros, Ducasse is close up there too. Ledoyen is 750 euros. I cant find the price for Gagnaire's menu.

Has anybody ever tried a special occasion menu? Ducasse does an over 1000 euros menu(1200euros I think) excluding beverages for the day of the Grand Prix in Monaco in Le Louis XV.

It looks like everytime these menus are a medley of everything expensive. Truffles, foie gras, turbot, caviar and more truffles.

  1. a
    allende Dec 21, 2013 09:16 PM

    Truffles, truffles and more truffles. Hope the truffles are black because if the truffles are white and from Alba, the truffles are from the Slovenia and Croatia part of Alba.

    What foolishness goes on with truffles in France. Here is a current (as of last week) dish from a very, very highly rated restaurant in Paris, a place many of you love.

    Tuile de brioche carame'lise'e, creme a la truffe blanche d'Alba. So... either the white truffle was cooked or the chef was using truffle oil or some such gimmick. Either way, and no one knew, it is an abomination. However, this is what is going on.

    If you want to eat white truffles from Alba, come to Alba in October, November and early December... and go to restaurants that have good truffles and know what to do with them (and not every place does). In the sixteenth, you do not find people who know about white truffles from Alba.

    2 Replies
    1. re: allende
      souphie Dec 22, 2013 04:45 AM

      It's true that the situation with truffles, white or black, in France, is a sad one, and that most chefs, including some great ones (I mean you Briffard. You too, LeSquer. Same with you, Pacaud Jr. Don't you laugh, Jégo, you're no better) don't actually have a clue what to do with them, buying or cooking. One more reason why we miss the chefs who knew how (which apparently excludes all chefs of the Robuchon school and most of the Ducasse brand), such as Gérard Besson. And indeed I would probably rather head to Italy than France for good truffles. Right now in Paris I can only think of M. Dumonet at Joséphine as one who knows how to "cook" truffles. There may be others, I hope someone chimes in.

      I would also agree that Italy seems like a wiser choice than France for truffles. That said, I think your generalisation in the first paragraph is unfair. Not to mention, slovenia truffles really aren't that bad -- it doesn't depend on the GDP.

      1. re: souphie
        a
        allende Dec 22, 2013 06:26 AM

        It is only a wiser choice for Italy for white. In Italy, my restaurant owner friends don't have a clue as to what to do with black. Not a clue, even though some of them try.

        What generalization in the first paragraph was unfair?

        I've had Slovenian truffles. They are bad, most of the time in and of themselves, and always bad in comparison to those from Piemonte. It's the same with Umbrian whites. People from there extol them, but those truffles mediocre at best.

        GDP does matter. One November, go into a place in Piemonte that is using them, a good place in Piemonte (unfortunately there are some relatively famous places where the food is at best mediocre) and take a whiff as you walk into the dining room where the truffles are usually kept. Then smell a Slovenian truffle. You'll see that GDP does matter.

    2. f
      francaise Dec 23, 2013 07:29 AM

      Paul Bocuse has always been considered a reasonably priced 3 star restaurant, being about 2/3s of the cost of other 3 stars in France. Mr.Bocuse has stated that he can keep his prices lower because he owns his property outright; most others are heavily indebted to the banks. Whether the NYE dinner is good value or not depends on how it delivers! It does seem like a bargain compared to others, especially with the luxury ingredients that everyone expects from a 3 star.

      Last New Years Eve we were in Paris, and had a "special occasion menu" at a small restaurant that had good reviews (not from CH) and it was the worst meal we've had in Paris in the 15 years we have been coming to Paris. Although the special menu read well, it was a sham, and seriously overpriced. A real regret for us. We would have been better off bringing into our room truly delicious prepared food from the shops. Or better yet would be to rent a flat for the holidays.

      7 Replies
      1. re: francaise
        a
        allende Dec 23, 2013 07:43 AM

        And what was that restaurant?

        1. re: francaise
          Giannis Dec 23, 2013 09:03 AM

          I would suppose Bocuse can keep his prices down and his main income is not from the restaurant, so its not that important for him to get a profit of it. He has many other restaurants, many cooking books and a school to make his income.

          Truth to be told, I have never had a dinner in a restaurant at New Year Even or Christmas. I just cook at home.

          1. re: francaise
            souphie Dec 25, 2013 12:25 PM

            I would be very wary of Bocuse's NYE menu. His is not a cooking that lets splendid ingredients shine -- it's mostly about highly technical sauces that you can basically find in Escoffier. I go to Bocuse for puff pastry (and the seabass inside), for green bean salad, for a cote de veau with plenty of juice and mushrooms. I wouldn't go for delicacies such as truffle, poulet de bresse (terrible job there), lobster or scallops.

            Just my two cents, obviously. I love Bocuse with all my heart and try to go every year. But like most good restaurants, it has a user manual that cannot be downloaded on their website.

            I was gonna recommend you consider Alain Chapel's restaurant instead (the mention of the Bresse chicken reminded me how wonderfully they did it), which is when I realized it is no more, like most restaurants with exceptional cooking skills involved. Sic transit gloria mundi.

            1. re: souphie
              Giannis Dec 25, 2013 04:41 PM

              I have to agree on that. The only misfire I had chez Bocuse was the lobster salad. It wasnt bad by any means, but it was a bit overcooked so a bit dry.

              Still it remains the best dining experience I had thus far. Not the best cooked food ( I think Le Louis XV should take that) but the best overall experience.

              1. re: Giannis
                ChefJune Dec 26, 2013 09:33 AM

                have you been to Troisgros? Bernard Loiseau???

                1. re: ChefJune
                  Giannis Dec 26, 2013 10:05 AM

                  No, not yet. I dont live in France and I dont have friends interested in food so it is a bit hard to visit these places.

                  What I mean in ''I think the Louis XV should take that'' is between the restaurants I have visited since now.

              2. re: souphie
                f
                francaise Dec 25, 2013 06:02 PM

                Agree to all you have written about Bocuse.

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