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Dec 21, 2013 10:44 AM

Centouno - Oakland JLS

Fabio Dalle Vacche, who was the original chef at Borgo Italia, opened his own place this week at 101 ("Centouno") Broadway at Embarcadero.

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  1. The menu's very similar to Borgo Italia's. The room is bigger and more spacious.

    Torta fritta with salumi ($14) was as good as at the old place. Caponata ($8) was fantastic, only slightly tart and sweet, great balance.

    Gnocchi al pesto ($14) were delicate and great. I had a few bites of the tagliatelle al sugo ($12), that was the standout of the night, great al dente texture, perfect amount of sauce, a surprising hint of rosemary.

    Split a steak with arugula ($18). Nice light second course after substantial quantities of pasta.

    Drank Lambrusco ($32), paired well with everything, particularly the salumi.

    They comped us some torta della nonna that had not made it onto the menu yet. Pasta frolla tart shell filled with lemon crema pasticciera and topped with top-quality Italian pine nuts. Really nice.

    Overall a great meal. There were a couple of very minor new-restaurant glitches but apparently most of the people worked together at Borgo so they pretty much have their act together.

    1. fabulous. As a big fan of Borgo, I can't wait to go to the new location.

      didn't find a menu online. do they still have that chickpea flatbread socca-like thing?

      1 Reply
      1. re: escargot3

        I'm not sure, I didn't look closely at that section of the menu. I imagine he'll make all the same dishes from time to time.

      2. Centouno closed a couple months ago.

        The new concept going into the space is bizarre, to the point that it could be a joke- "Oakland's Home of Country Music" complete with line dancing lessons.

        A collection of sports logos includes Nascar, Wrestlemania and SEC football.

        The menu emphasizes outlandish burgers- the Jack London is stuffed with mashed potatoes; another is stuffed with mac and cheese. There's a Fabio burger as well.

        Lots of craft beer logos- "Ice cold beer- hard booze- wine- shots."

        Definitely not the new craft beer and burger type of place discussed in a recent thread...

        5 Replies
        1. re: Pius Avocado III

          Between that and Plank, there should be lots of space up for rent next year... ;-)

          1. re: hyperbowler

            Plank seems to be doing a good business every time I walk by, though with that huge a space you could do a lot of business and still lose money.

          2. re: Pius Avocado III

            Wow that is wacky. Country music could be real given Bluegrass is a thing in these parts, but yeah sounds a bit far fetched. The menu is burger pub however, just with "market driven demographically targeted" names.

            The real question is if there will be line dancing. Yee haw...get'erdone Oaktown!

            1. re: ML8000

              Not much space for dancing in there unless they remodel.

              1. re: ML8000

                Maybe the coworking space on the upper floors will be wholly occupied by country music-related startups staffed by cowboys waving their hats in the air as they slide down the "28ft gravity powered productivity booster."