Rome in Mid November -- a Brief Report
We were in Rome in mid-November, staying chiefly in Trastevere, but also venturing out to see more of Rome than we had managed in previous trips.
Thanks to Elizabeth Minchilli’s EAT ROME app, we were able to book into the Arco del Lauro B&B, a great place to stay in the quieter part of Trastevere, also close to a number of great restaurants and right across the bridge from the Ghetto and the heart of historic Rome.
We had excellent meals during our stay, thanks to the discussions here on Chowhound and to Elizabeth’s guide. We especially enjoyed eating at Ristorante Spirito DiVino, Armando al Pantheon, Hosteria Constanza, Da Teo, Da Enzo, and the Osteria La Gensola.
We had delicious pizza at IVO in Trastevere and enjoyed the food and the community at Da Augusto, a place well off the Trastevere tourist trail.
We also had an excellent meal at Trattoria Sora Letta, a place that does not get a lot of love on Chowhound, but which served us fabulous gnocchi and provided gracious service and an excellent wine list.
We also enjoyed sampling the wine list at Enoteca Cavour 313, near the Coliseum, and enjoyed the wine selections as well as the atmosphere and décor at AK Bar, Niji Café, and the Terra Satis wine bar, all in Trastevere.
We also visited the markets in Campo dei Fiori, Trastevere, and Testaccio.
While we were at the Testaccio Market, we met Betty Pierini, who hosts cooking classes through her website www.rhomecooking.it.
Betty told us that she misses the old market, apparently a real, gritty, earthy market, a truly Roman market rather than the cleaned-up market that has taken its place.
All in all, a great trip, with wonderful food, thanks in large measure to the guidance of folks on this list.
One of the nice things about being in Rome when its not high tourist season is that we found ourselves dining with the same people more than once. We saw folks at Da Teo who had sat near us at La Gensola the night before. We wound up sitting next to a couple at Armando al Pantheon who had also been drinking wine at Cavour 313 the previous afternoon.
Clearly, an interest in eating well has a way of creating community, whether its in an unfamiliar city or on site like Chowhound.
Thanks so much for taking the time to check back in. It's very interesting especially to hear your report from Trastevere, which is often a hard place to eat well. I was happy to hear Ivo has reopened. They were closed for a while.
And yes, as you've discovered, Rome is a very small town!