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Dec 5, 2013 08:08 AM

Five Days in the 15th

Greetings. We will stay on rue de l'eglise in April and would love any input on nearby dining (10-30 minute walk). I am looking for more of the "bib gourmand" type establishments rather than Michelin spots. I have researched the actual bib gourmand places in the guide...however I know the real knowledge is here. Thanks much.

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  1. I don't possess the human gasto-GPS Parnassien does but here are a couple in the Bib range:
    Le Pario
    Cantine du Troquet Dupleix
    Grand Pan & Petit Pan

    2 Replies
    1. re: John Talbott

      Two more thoughts until Parnassien gets down from 36.000 feet.
      Don't go to Le Signal (3/10 this year)
      But if you can walk there - the Bistro 121, which was great in the late 1960's, has recovered after a tumble and has a "menu" at 29.50 E plus Gillardeau oysters.

      1. re: John Talbott

        Mr. Talbott,

        Thanks much...I have been looking at your blog as well...great information and very helpful.

      2. not sure how close to rue de l'eglise it is, but Le Belisaire on 2 rue Marmontel (just up the street from Le Cordon Bleu) is one of my favorite places. Food is really delicious, prices moderate and service has always been exemplary.

        1. Not a restaurant, but I highly recommend a bakery on the rue Cambronne. It's called pichard and has wonderful pastries,award winning croissants,breads and also savory tarts and quiches. check carefully about the hours-they seem erratic to me. although perhaps quite common in Paris..

          4 Replies
          1. re: pammi

            +1 for sure. Pichard is delicious and cheap. And everything is great: breads, croissant, millefeuille, tarts...

            Also I love Cristal de Sel and Jadis best of all the 15th bistrots. They truly have fine cuisine at bistrot prices.

            Le Troquet is not what it used to be.

            For real cheap fare, I'm a big fan of Au Dernier Métro, serves late, all day, every day.

            L'Auvergne a Paris across from the Mairie has great fries.

            And of course there's the original Dubois store on rue Dupleix.

            L'antre amis is almost in the 15th.

            1. re: souphie

              "Le Troquet is not what it used to be."
              Agreed, but the Cantines are still OK, Soup, aren't they?
              And I forgot Au Dernier Metro, great little place.

              1. re: souphie

                This bakery sounds great. One goal of mine is not eat bread 24/7, which I am inclined to do...but I will make a stop (or ten) here. Thank you.

                1. re: winefuhrer

                  One downside to Pichard: closed mon, tue and 1-4pm

            2. There are solid decent bistros du quartier galore in your 30-min walking radius. But why, I ask myself, would anyone walk half an hour to any restaurant when there are buses and taxis that get you there in minutes ? As much as I like the 15th, I wouldn't describe it as walking territory unless you like you like long stretches of residential streets that are very similar in tone and architecture.

              John Talbott's and Souphie's lists are excellent. The nearest foodie place-- and it just happens to be very new and therefore so far undiscovered by tourists-- is Le Pario on the ave Emile-Zola (5- to 8-min walk depending where on rue de l'Eglise you are and even shorter if you are prepared for a bit of brazen trespass and a little confusion if you go through the Villa St Charles + parking lot) ... hardly in the trad mode but full of successfully interesting flavours.
              Re JT's other suggestions,
              I'm a huge fan of all Christian Etchebest restaurants (la Cantine de Troquet, la Cantine du Troquet Dupleix, and La Cantine de la Cigale). For you, the Cantine du Troquet Dupleix on the boulevard de Grenelle is the nearest... maybe 15- to 20-min walk but just 5-mins if you hop on the #42 on the rue Saint-Charles (stop just on other side of Charles Michel métro) to the Doctor-Finlay stop... always good Basque cuisine... a no-rezzie place so avoid peak times (1-2pm and 8:30-9:30). His original Le Troquet resto on the rue François Bonvin off the rue Lecourbe is no longer run by him... still good cuisine but a more subdued vibe than les Cantines du Troquet... 15- to 20-minute walk.
              Le Grand Pan and Le Petit Pan on the rue Rosenwald are both a 30-min very boring walk from your place. Take a taxi. And both are excellent.

              I suppose its Caribbean influences put its cuisine in a more modern genre but the vibe and ambiance of Bernard du 15 on the rue des Entrepreneurs just off the rue Lourmel (5-min walk from your place) is relatively trad and very neighbourhoodly. For an even more traditional flavour, Bistro Champêtre on the rue Saint-Charles @ rue de l'Eglise is decent enough and cheap enough for a rec on a rainy day or on a Sunday when most other places are closed... I'm not convinced that its cuisine and especially service are consistently good enough to qualify for an "oh yes!" but on the right day it can be very enjoyable... the 39 € 3-course + a bottle of wine "formule" is a bargain but you can get away for less than 20 € at lunch. And speaking of traditional, Chaumette on the rue Gros, a 10-minute walk or bus ride (#70 from rue des Entrepreneurs/ place Violet) over the Pont de Grenelle is a very good Lyonnaise restaurant in the 16th... lots of TV media types from the nearby Maison de la Radio... and views of the river and Eiffel Tower (and maybe a stroll on the Allée des Cygnes) on the way there and back.

              If you are on the Félix-Faure end of rue de l'Eglise, a 10-min walk to the other side of the Square Lambert brings you to the old-fashioned (in the same family since 1932) l'Armandie on the rue Petel for some very good fruits de mer platters and a sense of belonging to the neighbourhood. Also on the rue Petel, I'Intuition Gourmande (silly name) for some creative updated trad in a lovely setting... maybe a sentimental favourite for me because it used to be Le Petel, one of my favourite bistros du quartier in this part of the 15th, but the new team seems to have continued a similar vibe and quality.

              Les Trois Garçons in the rue Javel @ rue Frères Morane/ rue Croix Nivert is THE café du quartier with excellent grub... great terrace... full service at meal times but also snacks and nibbles from 8am to 1am... open 7/7... when rendez-vous-ing with friends who live in the area, this is where we always meet, sometimes eat here or move on to another nearby bistro.

              And now for a rediscovered rem, l'Accent Corse on the rue de la Convention (10 min walk)... I've been in the past but keep forgetting to recommend it until a recent meal reminded me what a gem it is... everything that a good restaurant should... a sense of joy, warm and welcoming service, a very good cuisine with regional Corsican and unfamiliar specialties (the roasted kid goat is fab!)... I even enjoyed what seemed (but was not) an unplanned outbreak of live trad music and Corsican folk songs.

              If you are staying in an apartment and need to shop, the rue Saint-Charles between rue de l'Eglise and rue de la Convention is a relatively good "rue commerçante"/ market street with the typical array of bakery, cheese, greengrocer etc shops. There's also rotisserie that I've never tried but judging from the lines seems quite good... every tourist in Paris should try a takeaway poulet roti at least once... in April, you might be able to get good enough weather to have a picnic in the delightful Square Violet on the rue de l'Eglise. (BTW, the fire station on the north side of the Square Violet/ rue des Entrepreneurs has one of the best bals des pompiers for 14 Juillet/ Bastille Day... you'll have to come back in July!) There's also an outdoor market around the rue Javel on Wed and Fri mornings... relatively small but excellent quality.

              9 Replies
              1. re: Parnassien


                Thank you for devoting 10+ minutes of your life to a total stranger...the reason I visit and love CH. Complete transparency here is that we will/should walk for a few reasons: we have several people with us, including a very young one. I think walking will be more successful than hauling our necessary equipment on/off other modes of transport. Additionally, I love to walk and use it as my daily exercise...and will need a lot of exercise. I like to eat more than I like to walk.

                This is amazing information and very helpful since many of the places I was considering are closed Saturday/Sunday...Les Trois Garcons sounds like a great spot.

                We are staying in an apartment with the owner...and she may do dinner for us one evening or we may use this rec for the great markets.

                Thank you so much

                1. re: winefuhrer

                  "As much as I like the 15th, I wouldn't describe it as walking territory unless you like you like long stretches of residential streets that are very similar in tone and architecture."
                  Very well put by Parn, as usual, albeit furiously euphemistically.
                  Paris has exellent public transport. Any time we have to wait longer than 3 minutes for the metro, we locals start bitching to high heaven. If you like to walk, do consider taking the metro to nicer walking areas, like the Seine, the Luxembourg gardens, etc., which will also greatly expand your restaurant choice.

                  1. re: Parigi

                    "exellent public transport"
                    vs "I think walking will be more successful than hauling our necessary equipment on/off other modes of transport."
                    Not to be intrusive winefuhrer, but have you tried Paris public services? Because, on every bus there is at least one stroller and one parent with a toddler. Of course you have to shame the sullen adolescents texting with their feet on the seats to get up, which is why I carry a cane (just kidding about the cane, but I've seen it done.)

                    1. re: John Talbott

                      Mr. Talbott,

                      I have not and my opinion is uninformed and predicated on what I see here in the states. I can always buy a cane...

                      1. re: winefuhrer

                        I have a tribe of 12, whom we've schlepped all over the city (including the Zoo at Vincennes when it existed and the non-prostituted sections of the Bois de Boulogne) from age 3 months to well, my decrepitude, and I worry much more about whether we've got the crayons, stickers, jump-ropes and iPads than whether we can get on the bus(es). Now, all the adults go to the gym, do triathalons, bungy-jump and other crazy stuff and can lift strollers and kids up down and sideways but I think you'll find it quite easy.

                        1. re: John Talbott

                          I imagine we will do some public transport so this is good info. We have a couple black belts and everyone is in good enough shape to lug around the baby. We are definitely going to be out of the 15th most of the day everyday but may stick nearby for evening meals (esp since the baby's body clock will be trying to figure out why we are eating at midnight).

                          1. re: winefuhrer

                            Walking is great when it's exploration rather than just locomotion.

                            Lugging around baby/ stroller is actually much easier on buses than métro ... some of the interchange stations are hellishly labyrinthal ...too many stairs...and anti-family at rush hours. And bus rides are sorta like mini-tours of the quartiers while métro is just getting from A to B without seeing what's in-between.

                            BTW, usually no high chairs or booster seats in restaurants so it's just lap or stroller for the kid. And if the kid fusses or acts up, a quick removal by one or other of the parents until he/she calms down. In most restos, a quiet kid will be treasured and fussed over but there is very little tolerance of a disruptive one.

                            1. re: Parnassien

                              Copy that on removal. Less tolerance from me than anyone. She is 7 months and eaten out over 100 times, relatively well indoctrinated. There are those occasions where I am outside with her while my wife imbibes as I watch through a window. We are doing L'Arpege for lunch one day, baby is not invited to that one.

                  2. re: winefuhrer

                    "Les Trois Garcons" -- did you ever go there? I've seen no recent report here. (The very negative service reviews in French on TA give pause.) -- Jake

                2. Prompted by a sudden surge of Beillevaire-philia on this board, I'm reminded that there is a branch of the fab fromager Pascal Beillevaire at 133 rue Saint-Charles, just a few minutes from your place. Say cheese! and send us a photo.

                  3 Replies
                  1. re: Parnassien

                    Rue Saint Charles is an outstanding food shopping street. (Of course, I'm biased since it hosts a Mervielous de Fred shop.)

                    1. re: mangeur

                      Merveilleux de Fred notwithstanding (they've opened one in my hood, the rascals), rue Saint-Charles would still be an outstanding food shopping street. With the excellent Monoprix Beaugrenelle and the main Paris branch of M&S nearby for good measure. And Little Iran on rue des Entrepreneurs, and some of the best Korean restaurants in Paris in the area.

                      1. re: Ptipois

                        I first read about Aux Merveilleux de Fred through discussion from posters on Chowhound. They are so good.

                        I recently planned to recommend it (again), this time to a neighbor, but the Paris shops are closed from the 28th of July until the 28th of August, which overlaps their visit.