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Night+Market (Revisitings)

TheOffalo Nov 22, 2013 12:29 PM

[For larger images w/captions, and inline with text, go to http://theoffalo.com/2013/11/nightmarket-revisitings/.]

According to my “records” I have been to Night+Market "only" 9 times since my first visit in July (http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/910928). It would be more, except for the fact that it's quite far from where I live. If it were any closer, I would definitely be in the high-teens by now. It has quickly become one of my favorite restaurants in L.A., mostly for having incredibly delicious food, but also because it doesn't try to be anything but what it is, a "neighborhood" spot, serving simple, authentic "Thai street food" (so says the masthead on their site).

Of course, the neighborhood is West Hollywood, on the Sunset Strip, but that's presumably where chef/owner Kris Yenbamroong spent some of his childhood, in Talisai, the restaurant his family opened and ran since the early 1980s. One actually accesses Night+Market by entering Talisai, turning right, and then going through a curtained, arched doorway. Street parking is a bit rough, but there is a public lot just across the street, for a very reasonable $1/hour before 6 PM and just-fifty-cent-more-than-the-meter $2/hour after 6 PM.

Kris will soon be opening Night+Market "Song" (meaning "Two" in Thai) in Silver Lake around Christmas, thanks to the success of the mothership, enjoyed by actors, musicians, artists (such as graffiti artist André, The Strokes' Nick Valensi of the Strokes, and the band Arcade Fire, just to name a few of the most recent notable customers), and us plebeians alike. In the past, when the restaurant hasn't been too busy, Kris would take time out of the kitchen to chat with his patrons, so before he opens Song and has to start splitting his time between the two locations, I wanted to squeeze in a few more visits to WeHo while the captain was sure to be in the kitchen.

* * *

I went last night and was joined by chrishei, who showed me the ropes on my first visit. Actually, it would be more accurate to say I joined him, as I arrived 15 minutes late, while he was early. Last night's sSecials included of some "regulars" that we had on my first visit, such as Hey-Ha Wings and Nam Kao Tod, but also had some new items, like Tub Hwan, an Isan pig liver salad that I was very interested in, and Tum Kanoon, a spicy jackfruit salad that was unfortunately sold out.

http://instagram.com/p/hARJL-A-nU/

Fried Pig Tail, $7: The first of the items we ordered, the fried pig tails were excellent as always, simultaneously crispy and fatty and delicious.

http://instagram.com/p/hAVPi_g-qy/

[I joked with Chris that we should do a pig tail crawl. Going East to West, we could start at The Spice Table in Downtown L.A., which unfortunately is slated to close at the end of the year, followed by Animal in "Beverly Grove", then Night+Market in WeHo, and finally Tar & Roses in Santa Monica. Who's with me?]

Nam Kao Tod, "*SPICY* crispy rice salad w/spicy sour pork, raw ginger, onions, peanuts", $9: I get this dish nearly every time. It is, as marked on the menu, quite spicy, so please be aware, but it is worth enduring the heat!

http://instagram.com/p/hAV9IsA-rc/

Hot Pot Tom Yum Shrimp Soup, $12: This was the first time I've had tom yum goong at N+M. The shrimp were plump, the broth spicy yet subtle in its complex flavors of lemongrass, galangal, and other ingredients.

http://instagram.com/p/hAX1leg-tS/

It is a big pot of soup, a little too much for us with the other stuff we ordered; it would be good for 2 people as a bigger part of their meal, or even 3-4 people as just one of many dishes to sample.

http://instagram.com/p/hAXTd9A-s2/

Tub Hwan, "Isan pig liver salad with herbs, limes, fish sauce, chile... SPICY!", $10: I didn't find this dish to be as spicy as the last two dishes, but perhaps my taste buds had acclimated to the spice. As my moniker is "The Offalo", it'd probably have been a safe bet that I'd enjoy this, and I did. Probably the best dish of the night, what surprised me the most was how sweet and tender the liver was. It had none of the grittiness or minerality of cooked liver, but it wasn't raw either. The tanginess of the lime really came through as well. It was almost like a pig liver ceviche!

http://instagram.com/p/hAYKvIA-ta/

Kao Kluk Gapi, "shrimp paste-seasoned rice", $13: I had had this dish on a previous visit and really enjoyed it. Though we already had rice in the form of the Nam Kao Tod, I wanted to have this dish again. Between the sticky-crispy candied pork, the fluffy shredded egg omelet, and the snappiness of the mango, this was a sweet, savory, pungent concoction of a rice dish.

http://instagram.com/p/hAZX3ZA-uM/

Ice Cream Sandwich, $4.5: Of course, we couldn't leave without having this signature dessert. The coconut ice cream is a great salve for the mouth, the fat in the ice cream carrying away the capsaicin. I only wish that more ice cream flavors were offered more often. On my first visit, we had Thai iced tea ice cream. On another visit, I had durian ice cream. Chris mentioned having pandan ice cream there once.

http://instagram.com/p/hAZoa-g-uZ/

* * *

My penultimate visit to N+M was solo, less than two weeks ago, and it was the first time I had a certain category of food in my life. Before we get to that, however, that night's Specials also had a few new items, including Yum Hed, a non-meat dish with mixed mushrooms that Kris was experimenting with as a potential dish for Song. It wasn't quite vegetarian, having fish sauce in it, and, unfortunately, I did not try it, as I was distracted by the Razor Clams on special!

http://instagram.com/p/ghhpAYg-oS/

Nam Kao Tod, "*SPICY* crispy rice salad w/spicy sour pork, raw ginger, onions, peanuts", $9: As mentioned above, I get this dish nearly every time...

http://instagram.com/p/ghi6zDA-pT/

Razor Clams, "(4) grilled clams topped w/lime, chile, + garlic", $15: Kris had just picked up these razor clams that morning, and I could tell they were fresh, as they were quite tender (I could cut them with a fork) and sweet. They were a little gritty and sandy, especially in the "guts", but perhaps there wasn't time to "purge" them with a long soak since they were so fresh. Regardless, they were delicious.

http://instagram.com/p/ghjRQwA-pl/

Sai Uah, Chiengrai herb sausage, $7: I had had this dish on a previous visit, and I actually like it better than the Sai Krok Issan, the spherical fermented pork sausage. The nam prik noom, a roasted chile "salsa/relish", was great, but there was another reason I ordered this dish...

http://instagram.com/p/ghjuquA-p-/

Nam Prik Maendga, water bug chile relish, off-menu supplemental for the Sai Uah, $2: Yes, water bug. I had seen a picture of the bugs on Kris's Instagram (to spare the squeamish, I will not embed the image here, click the link at own risk: http://instagram.com/p/gdwHoaFZ86/). Despite the fact that I love eating animal parts that most Americans wouldn't dream of eating--a product of my upbringing in Taiwan, where as much of an animal is used for food--I have never eaten insects before. I am not someone who finds a thrill in "extreme" eating, but since I've really enjoyed expanding my palate with cuisines I haven't been familiar with, such as the authentic Isan Thai cuisince at N+M, I really wanted to try this.

http://instagram.com/p/ghkLoNg-qa/

What came out looked nearly identical to the nam prik noom that accompanies the Sai Uah. I tasted some by itself, and if no one told me, I wouldn't have known that this dish had any kind of insect in it. I asked Kris later how he prepares the bugs, and he said he steams them, then opens them up and uses the insides, so I wouldn't have encountered any carapace or anything identifiably "buggy".

The taste was interesting. Compared to the nam prik noom, this had a more fragrant quality, and I experienced a numbing sensation that was more like what one gets from mint or eucalyptus than from really spicy foods. It was great with the sausage and with slices of cucumber!

Ice Cream Sandwich, $4.5: See above! :-)

http://instagram.com/p/ghlIugg-rH/

* * *

So that was my two most recent visits! I got to have some old favorites and try some new stuff! To wrap things up, I will highlight one more dish, not from a recent visit, but just because it's damn good, and then call it a night!

Moo Sadoong, 'startled pig', "grilled pork, basil, lemongrass, fish sauce, lime, bird eye chile", $9: Chris had recommended I try this after our first visit, so I did, on my second visit a few weeks later. This is an incredibly strong dish, with big flavors that all work incredibly well together. It's spicy, tart, fragrant, and spicy. (Yes, I listed it twice on purpose.) I'd definitely recommend some sticky rice or coconut rice to go with it. In fact, an order of this and a side of rice would make a great meal (or two) on their own.

http://instagram.com/p/c5qFFVA-uR/

Okay, I lied about the above being the last dish. Just like I have to end (nearly) every meal at N+M with an Ice Cream Sandwich, I'll close with one last Instagram of this signature dessert, this time with the aforementioned durian ice cream; all the deliciousness of ice cream with a touch of fragrant gasoline. Durian's definitely an acquired taste, but this is probably the most accessible way to try it! I enjoyed it!

http://instagram.com/p/fHRFI-A-rn/

Of course, I've had many, many more dishes across my 1.5 dozen visits, too numerous to include in one post. Most of the dishes are very affordable, especially for the neighborhood, and encourage experimentation. I urge everyone to go and just try a few.

* * *

Night+Market (http://nightmarketla.com/)
9043 Sunset Blvd
West Hollywood, CA 90069
(310) 275-9724

[This is part of a series of "Revisitings". You can see the other posts, one on Ramen Hayatemaru, one on Sweet Rose Creamery, here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/9231...]

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  1. j
    Johnny L Nov 22, 2013 10:08 PM

    The nam khao tod at N+M is the best version I've had in the states, I try to order it everywhere and most places fail to live up to it.

    6 Replies
    1. re: Johnny L
      c
      chrishei Nov 22, 2013 10:13 PM

      I love it too.

      1. re: chrishei
        j
        jessejames Nov 22, 2013 10:18 PM

        Never tried it but that photo is mouth watering

      2. re: Johnny L
        TheOffalo Nov 22, 2013 11:53 PM

        Glad to hear that. I've only had it at Renu Nakorn and Lotus of Siam. I'd rank them N+M > LoS > RN.

        1. re: TheOffalo
          j
          Jase Dec 11, 2013 09:18 PM

          Had N+M and LOS within a couple of weeks of each other and I'd have to agree that N+M is much better. I used to love LOS version and still like a lot but feel that in the last couple of years, they've muted and dumbed down the flavors as they've gotten more popular.

          I'm beyond thrilled that N+M offers such great food and much easier drive than Vegas. We also loved the pork toro.

          1. re: Jase
            j
            Johnny L Dec 11, 2013 10:40 PM

            The thing with nam khao tod is that it is a pain in the ass to make it right and unless you are a stall that only sells one thing there's little motivation to do it the right way if you don't sell much of it.

            I believe because N+M has a small focused menu they have to do it right or not bother doing it at all.

            The rice croquettes have to be fried recently and don't keep at all so a restaurant that doesn't sell much of it probably just pan fries some old rice which doesn't come close to forming croquettes, frying them whole and breaking them up.

            1. re: Johnny L
              j
              Jase Dec 12, 2013 07:11 PM

              It's a pretty popular dish at LOS so you'd think there would be enough turn to do it the way you describe.

              I do like LOS chicken wings better than N+M's.

      3. j
        jessejames Nov 22, 2013 01:27 PM

        what does pig tail taste like -- like cracklins?

        nice review -- looks like that spot packs a lot of flavor.

        I'm always interested in learning about more places in west hollywood because it is so convenient for us

        6 Replies
        1. re: jessejames
          TheOffalo Nov 22, 2013 01:42 PM

          It kind of depends on the preparation method. I think here it's probably lightly marinated and then deep-fried and it is kind of like cracklins, but without the harder bits that cracklins sometimes has.

          Animal does a Buffalo "wing" preparation that's good, but my favorite (though I've only had it once and N+M's version is edging in on its spot) is from Tar & Roses, which does a honey and sriracha coating on it. I think the tails themselves were just superior that one time I had it at T&R, but I'd need to get it again to see if it holds up on a repeat visit.

          Thanks! If WeHo is convenient, get thee to N+M! I live W405/S10 (my own abbreviation for west of the 405, south of the 10) and I brave the traffic to get there. At times it's taken over an hour, but it's always been worth it for me.

          1. re: TheOffalo
            Porthos Nov 22, 2013 01:46 PM

            Animal's pig tail prep sucked. Salty, no meat.

            N+M's version is tender, succulent, crispy on the outside. Like tender ribs but meatier and more falvorful.

            Will try the T+R version in a couple of weeks.

            1. re: Porthos
              TheOffalo Nov 22, 2013 01:50 PM

              I found my experience with Animal's pig tails not as bad as your, apparently, but perhaps it's telling they're third on my list.

              Last few times I was in T&R, they did not have the pig tails on the menu. I was very disappointed. To add insult to injury, the fried pig ears that *were* on the menu were sold out. I was a sad Offalo. :-(

              Anyway, maybe T&R has, instead of nose-TO-tail, a nose-OR-tail (or more accurately an ear-OR-tail) thing going on with the fried porcine parts on their menu...

            2. re: TheOffalo
              j
              jessejames Nov 22, 2013 01:49 PM

              Well I have the opposite problem with shunjis now !

              I'll give it a whirl and thanks for the other tips. I haven't been to animal or tar and roses yet.

              1. re: jessejames
                JAB Nov 22, 2013 01:53 PM

                There's one on Spice Table's menu that I've enjoyed as well.

                1. re: JAB
                  TheOffalo Nov 22, 2013 01:55 PM

                  Mentioned in the OP as the potential start of a pig tail food crawl! :-) But I need to try it before Spice Table tables at the end of the year. :-(

                  http://la.eater.com/archives/2013/11/...

          2. Porthos Nov 22, 2013 01:19 PM

            Agree. Love that crab fried rice and love the pig tails here.

            Great place.

            1 Reply
            1. re: Porthos
              TheOffalo Nov 22, 2013 01:23 PM

              So, pig tail crawl (that sounds wrong for some reason) some time, Porthos?

            2. v
              VealParmGuy Nov 22, 2013 01:03 PM

              This is currently my favorite restaurant in LA. The food is unbelievable, it's fun, and at a completely reasonable price point. At the moment, that combination is hard to beat, especially in that neighborhood.

              I haven't tried the herb sausage, but I love the Issan Sour Sausage. I also find the Crab Fried Rice to be crave-worthy.

              1 Reply
              1. re: VealParmGuy
                TheOffalo Nov 22, 2013 01:25 PM

                I fully expected to like the Sai Krok Issan sausage more, as I believe it is the "sour pork" that's in my beloved Nam Kao Tod, but by themselves, the Sai Uah wins out for me. :-)

              2. TheOffalo Nov 22, 2013 12:58 PM

                Do not post in the duplicate thread that's still up (as of right now). I've flagged it for deletion.

                If you have any comments, please post to this thread! Thanks! :-)

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