Thanksgiv(ukkah) in Paris (part 2 and long)
- chefMolnar Nov 22, 2013 12:59 AM
First of all, I want to thank this board for the excellent discussion about what I should do for Thanksgivukkah here. By the way, I did get to the Marchés des Producteurs last weekend and picked up some beautiful chestnuts and drap d'or apples. I found a boucherie here that will order a 4-kilo dinde fermière for an OK price. So I'm ready to go.
Now for the menu. Here are my principles (Am I overthinking this? You bet! That's half the fun):
1. The dinner will pay tribute to three cultures: American/Thanksgiving, Jewish/Hanukkah-- both Ashkenazi(European) and Sephardi (Spanish-Middle Eastern)--and French. But it should work together as a meal.
2. I will try to keep the Jewish elements to foods that are appropriate for Hanukkah. So Brussels sprouts with pastrami (which has appeared on a few sites) is out. Pastrami is Jewish but it isn't really a Hanukkah thing.
3. The food will be "imitation kosher." This means that I'm not actually cooking in a kosher kitchen with kosher meat, etc., but I will not mix milk and meat (at least not on the same course), no pork, shellfish, etc. So goodbye smoked oysters and crème fraiche.
4. Most of our guests will be French. So yeah, I'm a little intimidated.
Here's what I've got so far. Comments, criticism, and (gentle) ridicule welcome. Oh yes, and as they say, pardon my French:
Appetizers: hareng fumé = smoked herring on endives
Les trois petites galettes:
de pommes de terre,
de chou de Bruxelles,
et des poireaux
=Two kinds of latkes (potato and Brussels sprouts)
and one Keftes de Prasa (a Sephardic leek fritter traditional for Hannukah).
Dinde fermière à la Ashkenaz/Normande
= Turkey with apples, chestnuts, and Cidre Normande gravy.
The idea here is to pay tribute both to poulet/pintade Normande and the traditional European Hannukah goose while still using a turkey. If I can find a small bottle of Calvados I might light it up. I'll put a few scallions and apples inside and scatter chestnuts and apples around it. If the bird will fit sideways in my oven I'll try rotating it on the thighs.
Sauce aux pommes et aux canneberge
= cranberry apple sauce (for the latkes as well as the turkey).
If I can get enough cranberries I might make a cranberry-orange relish, which is what I always do.
haricots aux amandes
salade de carottes rapees et raisins sec
= carrot tsimmes.
This is a raw tsimmes, not the traditional carrot, prune, and meat stew also called tsimmes.
Dessert: sufganiot/bimuelos/beignets à la crème de potiron.
I won't fry these myself. I'll buy them from the local sephardic bakery and top with a pumpkinesque creme.
My niece (the one with a culinary degree) also suggested a getting a big meringue and putting pumpkin or cranberry on it.
So. A couple of questions:
- If I make a dressing (not a stuffing--see above), it will be with apples, chestnuts, and dry challah. But isn't there enough starch with the latkes?
- What wines to serve with this? I usually go patriotic with American wine at Thanksgiving (e.g. Oregon pinot) but I'm here and besides American wine is expensive here.
Thanks again for the advice!
Another hound and we also went to the marché des producteurs last weekend.
And I did pick out a farmer from Dordogne, ordered a 3.5 kilo turkey, loosely trussed so it could still be stuffed, to be picked up on the pre-Thanxgiving weekend at Marché Enfants Rouges.
My recent fave red for poultry is Les Creisses of Philippe Chesnelong.
Yippee! Just so you know -- the one I linked in the first part of this discussion is a real farm, too -- but in your case the Dordogne farm wins because you don't have to trek off to the wilds of the 77 to retrieve it!
We had visited the farm before the holiday, and were struck by the spotlessly clean farm, and the fat, glossy birds peering through the fence at us. (and there was actual grass in their pen!)
Went to pick up my reserved Dordogne farm turkey this morning at the Enfants Rouges market. A beautiful 3.5 firebird.
Also got from Mr Poultry God a big bag of bright orange-yellow chanterelle.
Asked to buy from him the lovely duck carcass, but he threw it in for free.
He also told us that on Thursday he had just dilivered a monster turkey to some Americans in Paris, and that Thursday is his restaurant delivery day.
Of course I had to know which restos.
I, begging: which ones ? Tell me please please please.
He: Le Chateaubriant…
I: moan moan moan
He: Bistro Paul Bert…
The rest is a blur.
So what time and where? ;-)
Don't worry about starch - it's just the nature of the beast. The dressing sounds lovely.
Parigi gave you a red rec, so I'll give you white: it's hard to go wrong with a Pouilly-Fuissé. My sister always serves one at Christmas, and as much as I'm predominantly a red wine drinker, it's very nice with the turkey and fixins.
Enjoy, and good luck!
Make the dressing. You know it's a Thanksgiving thing. Besides, it sounds tasty.
<Brussels sprouts with pastrami (which has appeared on a few sites) is out.> love both brussels sprouts and pastrami, but together they sound horrid. :(
Cru Beaujolais (not Nouveau) is what I always like with Thanksgiving.
Nancy, thanks for the tip. I'll check out La Grand Épicerie. I tried asking at the market and a couple of primeurs. I had to explain practically every time what a canneberge was. Of course, it's easy to find them dried, so I will put them in my tsimmes.
In the meantime, I found this link:
At least somebody here knows what they are ;^)
They have far less pectin (actually, hardly any pectin at all) and being canned in water, they do not provide the same texture at all. Not to mention the color which is generally all faded out from the canning.
But if found in another form (I haven't yet), and if you have nothing else, they might do perhaps — they do have a similar taste.
Try supermarkets, too. Large Monoprix like Montparnasse or Beaugrenelle will have fresh cranberries (or at least canned cranberry sauce in the international section), and last year I saw heaps of them at the big Auchan in Le Kremlin-Bicêtre.
Carrefour also *usually* has them (but never on the day you're looking for them) and the odd carton would sometimes show up at Intermarche (but usually starting to dry out and get wrinkly).
I had found a jar of conserves d'airelles -- it was just okay -- but I worked really hard in following years to find cranberries.
By the by -- G. Detout almost always has pecans. Last year there was a bad harvest, so we really struggled to find pecans, and finally found them at Grand Frais (both the one in Meaux and the one in Mitry-Mory had them).
sorry, didn't see the wine question --
We typically served a Cotes-du-Rhone and a Pouilly-Fuisse, in addition to the plethora of bottles that were brought along.