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Nov 20, 2013 02:29 PM

Bitch Magazine: Craving the Other

"Andrew Zimmern, host of Bizarre Foods, often claims that to know a culture, you must eat their food. I’ve eaten Vietnamese food my whole life, but there’s still so much that I don’t understand about my family and the place we came from. I don’t know why we can be so reticent, yet so emotional; why Catholicism, the invaders’ religion, still has such a hold on them; why we laugh so hard even at times when there’s not much to laugh about. After endless plates of com bi, banh xeo, and cha gio, I still don’t know what my grandmother thinks about when she prays.

Others appear to be on a similar quest for knowledge, though they seem to have fewer questions than answers. Like a plague of culture locusts, foodies, Chowhounders, and food writers flit from bibimbap to roti canai, fetishizing each dish as some adventure-in-a-bowl and using it as a springboard to make gross generalizations about a given culture’s “sense of family and community,” “lack of pretense,” “passion,” and “spirituality.” Eventually, a hole-in-the-wall reaches critical white-Instagrammer mass, and the swarm moves on to its next discovery, decrying the former fixation’s loss of authenticity. The foodies’ cultural cachet depends on being the only white American person in the room, braving inhumane spice levels and possible food poisoning in order to share with you the proper way to handle Ethiopian injera bread. But they can’t cash in on it unless they share their discoveries with someone else, thereby jeopardizing that sense of exclusivity. Thus, happiness tends to elude the cultural foodie."

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  1. Did you mean to make a comment or ask a question?

    1 Reply
    1. re: c oliver

      No. I just meant to share the article.

      I enjoyed reading the author's perspective on food appropriation and food as a cultural product, as well as on the idea of authenticity, a topic that has often been hashed out on CH. All just food for thought and reflection. Also, she mentioned "Chowhounders" in her piece.

    2. I remember someone somewhere saying that Toronto, my (very multicultural) city, needs to truly embrace different cultures... and not just their foods. Definitely some truth to that, IMHO.