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Nov 17, 2013 01:35 PM

Peloponnese in December

We are heading to Nafplio and Mystras this December. Does anyone have recommendations for meals in these two cities, or their general areas? We will have a car and are willing to drive up to an hour for a great meal or glass of wine (any tips for wineries also welcome!). We eat absolutely everything, though the meatier, the better. I've heard some reports of fabulous roast pork in the area....

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  1. I thought I'd report back in case anyone decides to head out to the Peloponnese. We had such large breakfasts at our hotels each day that we skipped lunch- this has never happened to us before while traveling and speaks to how fabulous the breakfasts were!

    In Nafplio:
    Dinner the first night at Arapakos, a fish taverna on the waterfront. Mediocre Greek salad (tomatoes not in season and the salad was quite heavy on them) but very good fresh whole fish and squid. Inexpensive compared with seafood prices at home in London but a bit overpriced in our opinion, likely due to fab real estate on the sea. Good views, nice service.

    Dinner the second night in Nafplio was at Alaloum- this was great, a very traditional taverna. We had the fish again even though meat seemed to be the main draw there, but it was the special of the day, and the waiter brought it out to us to looked too good to pass up. We were right! Cooked in a very hot oven so it came to us with salty charred skin, very fresh.

    In Mystras: actually, we stayed in a tiny village just north of Mystras called Pikoulianika. Our hotel recommended a restaurant just up the road called Chromata. This was the highlight of our meals in Greece. More a restaurant than taverna. We opted to have all appetizers and skip the main- this was a great idea. Stand out items were the sizzling pork and tomatoes on pita, the Mani sausage, and the orange smoked pork. Really good rose wine too. Dessert was an orange and philo pastry concoction served with frozen greek yogurt, also to die for. Highly recommend, a great chance to try some local specialties. Must have reservations as it is tiny and very popular.

    One final note is that restaurants in Greece, in our experience, seem to treat you to either a free after dinner drink or a small dessert, sometimes both. What a lovely and welcoming gesture!