Sabrosa [Cow Hollow, San Francisco]
- Melanie Wong Nov 14, 2013 01:10 AM
Have been watching the changes at the former City Tavern . . . and now, Sabrosa opened last night. Executive chef is Jose Ramos, the original chef at Nopalito and most recently a consultant at Oakland's Nido. Last year we were judges for La Cocina's San Francisco Salsa Showdown and listening to his analytical comments about the entries taught me a great deal about different regional traditions. Please post when you have a chance to check it out.
3200 Fillmore St
San Francisco, CA
Open Daily to 2am
"Jose Ramos gets spotlight at Sabrosa, opening in the Marina"
On one of our Baja-like warm and sunny days in January, Mom and I checked out Sabrosa for lunch. The doors were thrown open to the sidewalks of the Triangle.
No alcohol for us, instead I ordered one of the virgin cocktails, Granada, $5, lime, pomegranate and soda. Mom had De la Paz coffee.
Mom ordered the Tacos de pescado, $8 per pair. The type of fish varies daily with what’s fresh in the market. We lucked out with black cod (sable fish) this time. In a take on al pastor, the fillets were marinated with guajillo chiles, then seared creating some caramelized highpoints. Served on a very tender single ply handmade corn tortilla with a neatly trimmed and grilled tile of organic pineapple, the tacos were garnished with salsa taquera verde and whole leaves of cilantro. The tortillas actually tasted like corn, not just bland wrappers, and could almost be described as fluffy in their light and moist texture. On balance, the tacos could have used more fish, as the pineapple tended to dominate each mouthful. But there’s no denying the freshness of the ingredients and the care in execution to create a more refined taste.
For me, Quesadilla de Bruselas, $9. A thickish, house-made corn tortilla tinted green with epazote was folded over a filling of organic brussels sprouts, jack cheese, queso casero, and leeks, then accented with almond mole.
Epazote is strong herb, and the amount in the tortilla was enough of a flavor wallop for me. The small leaves of epazote garnishing the plate were more delicate and less odoriferous than mature ones, but still overkill. Left whole, they were easy enough to avoid. I really loved the crispy leek filaments in the filling and decorating the plate, shown here with the small epazote garnish.
The shreds of brussels sprouts were cooked just long enough to wilt and bring out some sweetness. I especially loved the two-cheese treatment, soft and gooey melted jack combined with milky fresh queso casero. The mild mole’s dribbled randomly through the center and dabbed on the plate, making each bite a little different. This is a stellar vegetarian dish offering up a mix of textures and fresh, yet complex flavors.
We were very happy with the excellent food. Service was erratic with long waits for requests. With only one server and a busser at lunch, they were overwhelmed taking care of six tables inside and out. Maybe by now things are running more smoothly.
Sabrosa offers a happy hour menu from 3pm to 7pm daily, and half-off bottles of wine on Wednesdays. I think that will probably be my next stop here.
More photos from Sabrosa,