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A month in Paris!

My wife & I have reserved an apartment in the 2nd for May 18th -June 18th. I haven't posted of this board for so long because my knowledge of Paris is out of date and in critical need of renewal. First things first...after we drop our bags, where should we run to first to beg for a dinner reservation? ( I'll have other questions after I study the board in much more detail!)

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  1. When it comes to markets, the closer the better, so that you have less distance to lug over. So where in the 2nd ? And yo arrive on which day?
    Place de la Bourse has a small but nice market Tuesdays and Fridays afternoon. No butcher or cheese, but an excellent fishmonger.
    If you live toward the eastern edge, the food shops on rue Montorgueil are also a possibility. They keep regular market hours, which means they close Sunday after and Monday all day. Nice bakeries, great but expensive fishmonger, nice atmosphere.
    For a nice wine-bar meal with good vibes, I like Coinstrot Vino in Passage des Panoramas, one of the fabled Passages Couverts of Paris.
    For a more delicate, more celbratory meal, I like Saturne, but only if the bar seats are available, because I always like to watch the kitchen action, and because the waitstaff needs to pass by you all the time in order to remember you, and because the main room has bad acoustics, and the front room is Siberia.

    7 Replies
    1. re: Parigi

      We are on Le Cler. We arrive early on the 18th, a Sunday. Good to see that you are still helping people on this board, Parigi.

      1. re: hychka

        "We are on Le Cler."
        I can't find it on the map, much less in the 2nd. Could you recheck?
        "Good to see that you are still helping people on this board, Parigi."
        What a nice thing to say. No, I am burned out. Unlike JT and Parn, I hate helping people. Only like to help those I like. :)

        1. re: Parigi

          Rue de Le Cle'ry is what is on the lease. My mistake.

        2. re: hychka

          I can only assume that you are on rue Cler in the 7th (aka RickSteves-Land) and not the 2nd.

          BTW, always use rue, boulevard, avenue, place, passage, etc when you are using an address in France... too much confusion if you don't.

          1. re: Parnassien

            I'm thinking she means Rue de Cléry, which is in the 2nd, but that's just a guess. And I agree about the importance of rue, etc. I'm just thrilled that taxi drivers have GPS these days.

            I also wanted to add that we, too, had good service in the main room at Saturne.

        3. My favorite place to shoppe for vegetables and fruits and meat and fish is Terroir d'Avenir on rue de Nil. I love Saturne as well. I always sit in the main room. The acoustics do not upset me, and I've always experienced excellent service.

          12 Replies
          1. re: Nancy S.

            Great to know. It is also my experience too at Saturne, to have very good service. But others have mentioned a somewhat absent-minded service.

            1. re: Parigi

              I think that Saturne was blasted early on for sketchy service in the outer room. They seemed to have taken these criticisms seriously because we have had excellent attention in all the areas: back room, front room and terrasse.

              1. re: mangeur

                Turns out Hychka may not be living in the 2nd. Hychka ?

                1. re: Parigi

                  Lei e' italiano? Parigi e' 'Paris' nella bella lingua italiana.

                  1. re: Parigi

                    Rue de Cle'ry in the second. See apologies above.

                    1. re: hychka

                      Mystery solved !
                      Rue Cléry is very near Place de la Bourse (and the Tuesday and Friday afternoon markets), and near the "covered passage" Passage des Panoramas.
                      A brand new address in your hood: Le Comptoir des Abbayes, on 23, rue des Petits Champs, selling ace jams, liqueurs, even wonderful shampoos, made by monks in French monasteris. The rue des Petits Champs address also makes simple sandwich-y lunches made with wonderful ingredients, including the fabled Abbaye de Citeaux cheese.
                      Other good restos in the 'hood, besides Saturne, include Passage 53 and Chefjune's fave, Macéo.
                      Juvéniles is one of these wine bars-restos that offer good honest homecooking-y kind of meals. Yet another tip from Jock.
                      Rue Richer is not far a walk, which is still the champion of Paris food fengshui, with Kiku, Le Richer, Encore, Vivant, Oslem…

                  2. re: mangeur

                    "Saturne was blasted early on for sketchy service in the outer room"
                    I have been only distressed by the lack of sound baffling, a problem Saturne shares with many other places here and in the USA. I enjoy talking with my companions.

                    1. re: John Talbott

                      On our last visit, general noise was not an issue but two tables of whooping-loud Anglo speakers were. The more wine flowed, the more intrusive they became.

                      It's some kind of sense of entitlement that allows people to take over a room. Occasional whoops are to be expected, but not uproarious, howling laughter after every comment.

                      (mutter, mutter, mutter...)

                      1. re: mangeur

                        Saturne is quite popular with bond traders, whiz-kid bankers etc celebrating their capitalist-pig bonuses. I tend it to avoid it in December when the whoopee-gaggles are the most intrusive... unless, of course, I'm celebrating my own capitalist-pig bonus.

                        1. re: Parnassien

                          The whiz kid bankers are only that in their own minds in Paris, whatever the bonus.
                          This does not mean I am begrudging you your own capitalist pig bonus, of course.

                          Entitled,selfish, narcissistic people are,unfortunately, plentiful and becoming more so.
                          Ruining dinners, train rides, any and every public space(and sometimes private) they curse with their presence.

                          1. re: dietndesire

                            DH has a favorite phrase for your entitled people: "Her daddy told her she was cute." (or mommy/him when appropriate)

                2. I think a good place if you arrive late in Paris, is Laduree champs Elysees because of its closing time. I m not sure though if they serve dinner after some time.