Looking for a delicious meal near Palais Garnier in December
I'm looking for a delicious meal near Palais Garnier on a mid-December Saturday.
We are taking a tour that departs at Palais Garnier at 2:00pm and returns at 5:00pm. I'd guess that this creates the possibility of either an early lunch or an early dinner depending on your recommendations.
That Saturday will be the day after we arrive for vacation in Paris (10 days), Strasbourg, and Bruges, Belgium. We'll be staying in the 6'th at Hotel Au Manoir St. Germain des pres.
The only other dinner reservation I've made so far is Jules Verne. My first boyfriend after college always talked about it with such fondness; I want to experience it for sentimental reasons, even if its not as much in vogue these days..
This summer I read:
- John Talbott's incredibly informative blogs
- Paris by Mouth
- Chowhound of course
and copied and pasted info from there into our shared google drive docs we use for trip planning.
But that seems like a century ago; so much has happened since then. Family member was in hospice and then passed.
I know I need to start figuring this out. I've read (here?) that paris restaurants in December fill up quickly. I thought I'd start with something specific for this day since I know the location we'll be in.
1) In general, I enjoy eating out when it's a delicious meal that is beyond my (average) skill level or requires more time than I have available.
2) Atmosphere - When on vacation, I feel a stronger need to be in a nicer or interesting environment when dining out than at home. In other words, if deliciousness means a "dive" of a place, or as we have here in Austin Texas, eating delicious things from aspiring chefs food trucks in trailer parks, that's great. But when on vacation, I'm not comfortable in 'dives'.
I'd prefer full service or at least sit down in a place that is clean and either historic, visually interesting, either majestic quaint, or special in some way (an innovative chef, great classic dishes, etc).
3) We are omnivores though not "whole animal". I have completely enjoyed a braised beef tongue sandwich I felt adventurous for that :-). But things like pig knuckles, etc.. probably not.
4) We enjoy eating specific to the region or at least the country. I probably would never want to eat at a chinese restaurant while vacationing in Paris.
One of us has a seafood allergy. All seafood. So of course fish and shellfish. But also gelatin (with fish in it used to make gravies), worcestershire sauce (it has those sneaky anchovies), etc.
On the other hand I am fond of salmon, so would like to hear of any especially unique salmon preparations.
5) Budget. This is a special vacation. I haven't really set a meal budget. Last trip to Prague and towns nearby, our 2 most delicious and favorite meals were on opposite ends of the spending spectrum (in Cesky Krumlov, U dwau Maryí http://www.2marie.cz/5/en/normal/phot..., and the Four Seasons in Prague.)
From Google Maps, Palais Garnier is in the 9'th arr.
From John Talbott's blog, restaurants he enjoyed in the 9'th that caught my eye included:
Les Premices (I could not find on google
Le Roi des Coquillages
Paris by Mouth suggested:
Autour d’un Verre
Carnet de Route
La Maison Mere
La Régalade Conservatoire
Le Cul de Poule
Le Garde Temps
Le Vin au Vert
Les Pâtes Vivantes
For lunch consideration, which 2-3 would be the closest to Palais Garnier in case we are running late?
Thank you for the kind words.
I find the area around the Opera to be frustrating for food, I'd advise against the Cafe de la Paix and push you up the street to 111 Rue St Lazare to the brasserie Garnier itself where the "menu" is a reasonable 39.50 E for 3 courses plus a glass of wine and coffee and the sole and bar are an unreasonable 43 and 30 E respectively.
However, I just had a fine meal at Le Lulli in the Grand Hotel du Palais Royal (facing the gardens) and Google maps says it's just 17 minutes from the Opera on foot.
The best choices in a 10-min walking radius from the Palais Garnier are whittled down to just a few at weekends:
The Michelin 1-star Le Céladon in the Hotel Westminster on the rue Danou/ rue de la Paix would be my first choice because 1) it's so damn convenient and 2) it's a bargain on Saturday and Sundays when a very good multi-choice 61 € prix-fixe (including wine) is on offer for both lunch and dinner... very stylish decor... but don't count on an early dinner cuz it doesn't open until 7:30... you can bide your time in the Westminster's very old-school and quite delightful Duke's Bar;
Lazare is a much more democratic and buzzy place in the Gare Saint-Lazare (about a 10-min stroll from the Opéra)... but very very popular and you need to book 3 weeks in advance so maybe not a good choice if you are unsure of your schedule... continuous hours so you might be able to have an early dinner (but not too early because it only serves tea, pastries and snacks from 3 to 6pm)... I'd actually keep it in your back pocket for another day... the trad Sunday lunch/ déjeuner de grand-mère is a glorious re-statement of trad French classics... love it;
Goust on the rue Volney is much liked by some Chowhounders but I've only had one rushed biz lunch here so I can't claim to know it well... and no lunch, just dinner on Saturday.
Since the tour ends at 5, why don't you spend a bit of time wondering to another neighborhood for dinner?