Looking for a delicious meal near Palais Garnier in December
I'm looking for a delicious meal near Palais Garnier on a mid-December Saturday.
We are taking a tour that departs at Palais Garnier at 2:00pm and returns at 5:00pm. I'd guess that this creates the possibility of either an early lunch or an early dinner depending on your recommendations.
That Saturday will be the day after we arrive for vacation in Paris (10 days), Strasbourg, and Bruges, Belgium. We'll be staying in the 6'th at Hotel Au Manoir St. Germain des pres.
The only other dinner reservation I've made so far is Jules Verne. My first boyfriend after college always talked about it with such fondness; I want to experience it for sentimental reasons, even if its not as much in vogue these days..
This summer I read:
- John Talbott's incredibly informative blogs
- Paris by Mouth
- Chowhound of course
and copied and pasted info from there into our shared google drive docs we use for trip planning.
But that seems like a century ago; so much has happened since then. Family member was in hospice and then passed.
I know I need to start figuring this out. I've read (here?) that paris restaurants in December fill up quickly. I thought I'd start with something specific for this day since I know the location we'll be in.
1) In general, I enjoy eating out when it's a delicious meal that is beyond my (average) skill level or requires more time than I have available.
2) Atmosphere - When on vacation, I feel a stronger need to be in a nicer or interesting environment when dining out than at home. In other words, if deliciousness means a "dive" of a place, or as we have here in Austin Texas, eating delicious things from aspiring chefs food trucks in trailer parks, that's great. But when on vacation, I'm not comfortable in 'dives'.
I'd prefer full service or at least sit down in a place that is clean and either historic, visually interesting, either majestic quaint, or special in some way (an innovative chef, great classic dishes, etc).
3) We are omnivores though not "whole animal". I have completely enjoyed a braised beef tongue sandwich I felt adventurous for that :-). But things like pig knuckles, etc.. probably not.
4) We enjoy eating specific to the region or at least the country. I probably would never want to eat at a chinese restaurant while vacationing in Paris.
One of us has a seafood allergy. All seafood. So of course fish and shellfish. But also gelatin (with fish in it used to make gravies), worcestershire sauce (it has those sneaky anchovies), etc.
On the other hand I am fond of salmon, so would like to hear of any especially unique salmon preparations.
5) Budget. This is a special vacation. I haven't really set a meal budget. Last trip to Prague and towns nearby, our 2 most delicious and favorite meals were on opposite ends of the spending spectrum (in Cesky Krumlov, U dwau Maryí http://www.2marie.cz/5/en/normal/phot..., and the Four Seasons in Prague.)
From Google Maps, Palais Garnier is in the 9'th arr.
From John Talbott's blog, restaurants he enjoyed in the 9'th that caught my eye included:
Les Premices (I could not find on google
Le Roi des Coquillages
Paris by Mouth suggested:
Autour d’un Verre
Carnet de Route
La Maison Mere
La Régalade Conservatoire
Le Cul de Poule
Le Garde Temps
Le Vin au Vert
Les Pâtes Vivantes
For lunch consideration, which 2-3 would be the closest to Palais Garnier in case we are running late?
Thank you for the kind words.
I find the area around the Opera to be frustrating for food, I'd advise against the Cafe de la Paix and push you up the street to 111 Rue St Lazare to the brasserie Garnier itself where the "menu" is a reasonable 39.50 E for 3 courses plus a glass of wine and coffee and the sole and bar are an unreasonable 43 and 30 E respectively.
However, I just had a fine meal at Le Lulli in the Grand Hotel du Palais Royal (facing the gardens) and Google maps says it's just 17 minutes from the Opera on foot.
The best choices in a 10-min walking radius from the Palais Garnier are whittled down to just a few at weekends:
The Michelin 1-star Le Céladon in the Hotel Westminster on the rue Danou/ rue de la Paix would be my first choice because 1) it's so damn convenient and 2) it's a bargain on Saturday and Sundays when a very good multi-choice 61 € prix-fixe (including wine) is on offer for both lunch and dinner... very stylish decor... but don't count on an early dinner cuz it doesn't open until 7:30... you can bide your time in the Westminster's very old-school and quite delightful Duke's Bar;
Lazare is a much more democratic and buzzy place in the Gare Saint-Lazare (about a 10-min stroll from the Opéra)... but very very popular and you need to book 3 weeks in advance so maybe not a good choice if you are unsure of your schedule... continuous hours so you might be able to have an early dinner (but not too early because it only serves tea, pastries and snacks from 3 to 6pm)... I'd actually keep it in your back pocket for another day... the trad Sunday lunch/ déjeuner de grand-mère is a glorious re-statement of trad French classics... love it;
Goust on the rue Volney is much liked by some Chowhounders but I've only had one rushed biz lunch here so I can't claim to know it well... and no lunch, just dinner on Saturday.
I actually think that restaurants in general cannot offer a meal that allows you to be at the Palais by 2pm. Most of those on your list require that you leave the resto by 13h30. Restaurants start serving the earliest at 12h30. One hour in one of those better bistros is cramping your style and cramping the kitchen style. Don't give yourself a harried stressed out time. It's a meal, for heaven's sake.
How about a simple meat & great wine & wonderful atmosphere at, say, 12h30 at the lovely wine bar Le Rubis (10 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré) ? 10-minute walk to Palais Garnier, according to Google Map.
P.S. If one of you does not do seafood, please don't call yourselves omnivores, becaues you are not. :)
Ok, I already suggested it above but the Restaurant/brasserie/etc Garnier is open "de 12h00 à 14h30" and Google maps says it's an 8 minutes walk, 4 if running to the Opera.
I disagree with Parigi for the first time in my life - you can have some oysters, sole and be there on time.
re: John Talbott
"You can still have the very best choucroute in Paris at Bofinger and Garnier is one of the few excellent brasseries left."
I think this is cause for a whole new thread, because as Parigi intimated, brasseries have a bad cast to their name and indeed vary so widely.
And, so many have been taken over by the chains that there are few "independant" ones.
So, we live til another day,
3 from your replies are now definite for the trip.
mangeur, Pascade looks intriguing - the concept, the zen industrial interior, the chef. It also has 3 unique attributes:
- The concept of course. I now must try a Pascade.
- It's open continuously between lunch and dinner. Wow! Thank you Alexandre Bourdas you rebel you :-).
- It's so centrally located I can see tripping across it several times on my trip.
For that reason I will save it for between 2:30pm - 7:00pm on days when activities mean no sit-down lunch or we need sustenance before a later dinner reservation. In fact, if the trip is delayed the day before this tour and we arrive mid-afternoon, we will head there first as I know we'll be famished. That fills in my Plan B for arrival day.
2) Les Jalles
Ptipois, we will experience Les Jalles for a drink at that chic zinc bar after the tour. Something with Lillet please :-). (I've never actually tried Lillet. But I shall in Paris.)
Parnassien, I don't recall exactly why, but I actually already had labeled Lazare on my Google "My Maps" for Paris with a green pushpin. A green pushpin means I'm certain either like it or we will need to go there for logistical reasons.
Maybe it's because it has the VERY unique attribute of sounding like a delicious French restaurant that is open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch, dinner AND very late (from 7:30am - Midnight).
Or, I might have thought it was a Sunday definite, since a lot of places I looked up are closed on Sundays, and I will be in Paris across 2 Sundays.
Other places that look excellent
Parnassien, I LOVE the idea of handing over the wine decision making to the best sommelier in the world.
Odd - One site says they are open for lunch, but the Goust website says:
Open: 5 days from 7pm to midnight
Closed: Sunday – Monday and Saturday lunch
but then elsewhere on their website they refer to:
"Luncheon menu Entrée/ main course, or main course/ dessert, 35 euros"
So maybe lunch during the week but not on Saturdays.
In case of Goust especially, I'd agree with parigi. It would probably be best experienced when there's time to meditate on the wine choices at either dinner or lunch.
2) Brasserie / Restaurant Garnier
John Talbott, is the Brasserie Garnier adjacent to this restaurant:
I was looking for a link of their menu but only can find the restaurant menu.
Nancy S >> Since the tour ends at 5, why don't you spend a bit of time wondering to another neighborhood for dinner?
Great point. I forgot that restaurants don't open till 7.
I thought we'd either have
- Late breakfast + early dinner
- Lunch + Later dinner
But since early dinners are rare, I'll need to plan for
Lunch + Later dinner.
So I can narrow the scope to Lunch only for this thread :-).
"John Talbott, is the Brasserie Garnier adjacent to this restaurant:
This is the place; only one at 111 rue St Lazare. Don't worry about the title, the awning says bar a huitres, Zagat calls it a brasserie and most guides a restaurant - same place - a fish and shellfish leaning place.
Apologies for any confusion I caused.
And Goust is open for lunch or at least was when I went.in May.
re: John Talbott
I could see that because Pascade based on a specialty.
However, that's fine since my rule when on vacation is to not repeat a visit unless there are no other options or it's just that compelling.
I call that a "rule" because without it, my tendency would be to repeat what is good, known, comfortable. And in a place like Paris that would be a crime. :-)
re: John Talbott